2TR-FE Performance Thread

Optimal exhaust size is primarily determined by the hp requirement.

Too large a diameter exhaust for the application slows exhaust flow which loses exhaust velocity which reduces exhaust scavenging.
It is the biggest reason people get upset when they put their new large exhaust on and lose power.

The idea is to have the ideal exhaust velocity for the rpm range you want to improve while minimizing flow restriction at high rpm.

Hope this helps,

Roost.

 

Thanks. Didn't feel like spelling it all out. Lol. My typing has been exhausted for the day.

 

You are correct! I noticed a change with adding my Magnaflow muffler = bad and good, depending on where in the rpm range. Then, another change, much better throughout, when I added the LCE header. I'm doing well to get exhaust, well, exhausting. Now, need to get the intake, intaking. I'm thinking snorkel.

I understand the science behind it, after morning coffees. I was simply curious if there would be any advantage to having it on a mostly stock (not forced induction) motor. That answer is a simple 'no', and I'm fine with that.
Hoping we can make this a very comprehensive and educational 4 banger thread!

 

I gotchu bro!

 

I'm sure going to the 2-1/2" exhaust will still help on a NA motor. But that cat pipe still necks down around the flange and you can kind of see the pipe within a pipe (probably to help hold the gasket in place). If you removed that necked down flange and ran true 2-1/2 it should help pick up a couple hp and get better mpg. Going too big, like 3" on a NA motor will not help, it will probably hurt. But the stock exhaust is probably 2" at that inner pipe and that definitely restricts flow.

Here you can see the neck down section coming through the flange.

 

What hp does this eng have?

 

The 2.7 is 159 hp.

 

And it needs every single one of them.

 

After my conversion next upgrade is turbo or supercharger

 

Yea. It's very much needed. But I don't have the coin to spend on forced induction. And I don't know enough about it to build my own kit. I'd probably end up spending more than the URD kit so that's not exactly a cost saving option. Also, I really don't want to run premium gas. Even though it's currently cheap, I spend a crap load of money each month on gas and I don't want to spend anymore.

 

Is your truck you DD?

 

Yea. If it wasn't, I probably won't mind as much that it's slower than a snail.

 

Yea idk if i would have mine outfitted like i do if it were my DD lol

 

Haha yea. You know how it goes. I'm hoping to get the wife a new car soon, then I'll probably keep her old car as a DD. Though this coronavirus crap is putting a damper on my future financial plans. Not sure I want to sign up for an expensive car payment in the current economy environment.

 

I def understand that! My car payment took alot of my excess money away or else i would have already been done with this conversion!

Quick question, did you get a new transmission mount when you put the new tailshaft housing on there? Looks like you can just take off the plate for the 2wd tail shaft and it will bolt up to the 4wd tailshaft?

this

 

You just simply need everything that's in post #1 on your truck and then it won't suck LOL!

Agree, though. The 2.7 isn't winning any races after armor installs and MT tires, very few before either of those.

 

I have the resources to make a turbo header, and jig. If only I could convince my buddy to turbo his 2tr....

 

You need a new mount. They are completely different.

 

I have no idea where to get one thats the problem. Everywhere ive looked i cant find a part number, or when i google it nothing comes up.