ARB OME 2-3” lift kit question

Spring rates stated in the pic you quoted.

 

It’s the amount of weight needed to compress the spring 1 inch.

 

Gotcha. So the higher the PSR, the stiffer the spring.

 

any idea what the stock OEM PSR is?

doesn't seem like much consensus on that. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/coil-spring-rate.591339/

 

This is the only information I have found on the stock coil specs.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...2016-tacoma-presented-by-toytec-lifts.395798/

 

I just went with the heavy pack and more than pleased with it so far, it drives like a truck. With the bumper you can tell it rakes slightly to the front.

 

Awesome find. 717 vs. 590 is probably why my 888/Bilstein 5100 combo rides so stiff. I miss the stock suspension because it was like a Cadillac on forest service roads.

 

Curious why you would conclude that a higher spring rate would provide a cushier ride?

 

Hm? According to the information presented, the stock coil has a higher spring rate than the OME 888 thus, all other things equal, should provide a stiffer ride. There are however several other things at play that effect the ride quality, e.g. the shock absorber, coil preload, tires, etc.

 

Higher Pound Spring Rate means more weight needed to compress spring, i.e. more resistant to compression, I.e. stiffer?

My bro-science is usually questionable at best.

 

I confirmed with ARB/OME that I should only expect 2” of front lift on a 3rd gen Tacoma. 2” of lift in rear too. This is with their medium kit; ome 888 coils and nitrocharger 90021 shocks. So I will still have factory rake with that kit it seems. Planning to add 1/4 spacers to both sides of the front to hopefully get at least 2.5” front lift and a tad bit closer to level. So at this point even with 1/4 spacers it may work out to where I will not need aftermarket UCAs? I guess we’ll wait until alignment day to confirm that, but I’m not ordering any right now based off what I’ve read on these forums.

 

Are you going to do the ECGS bushing while you have it apart?

 

Haven’t decided. Open to suggestions on if it’s necessary or not. I hear both ways

 

I figured it was cheap enough to just do it while I was in there.

 

I didn’t do it. My fingers are crossed. I only lifted 2”.

 

Good question OP, but this has been answered a few times over in mega threads (which are sometimes hard to navigate). I've run full OME kits on my past two Tacomas, but my advice/step 1, would be to reach out to Marie at Headstrong Off-Road. Personally, I think lifts should satisfy a purpose that's not just aesthetics, so I'd ask yourself/myself what you're honestly planning on doing or growing into with your build. I had a pretty dialed rig with 887's, SPC UCAs, and Dakar HDs (w/camper shell), which rode a bit stiffer than stock (TRDOR) but if I had gone 888, I would have had too much lift for my liking in terms of IFS angles. Also, Dakars squeak like a mother F-er, which is just noise and not a performance thing, but something to consider. All & all, I've put about 100k on OME Kits w/o issue, so I'm sold, but there are other valid options.

 

Also, I'm a firm believer that 2"-2.5" settled (IFS) is the sweet spot for 3rd gens running 32s - 33s (w/o spindles, but with UCAs), going to a full 3" starts ramping up the bell curve in terms of wear and tear.

 

In terms of needle bearing failure, ECGS makes great stuff, but don't replace it until it starts failing, IMO.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I’m glad to hear from another ‘18 TRDOR owner running full OME lift. Yes, I have talked with Marie and she has been very helpful over the course of a few emails, but I also like to hear from numerous folks out there with different experiences/perspectives.
So I agree it does matter a lot what you’re planning to do with the setup/build into, and not only about looks... However, with me, there will be no serious off-roading. This is my daily driver. I hunt/fish/camp and take the truck through some ditches and fields. Maybe a logging road with some rough bumps is the worst this truck will ever see and I’m positive my stock setup could handle most of what I do because I’ve already proven that the last 2 years and only bottomed out like twice. Therefore it’s safe to say I’m doing this mostly so that I can run some bigger tires (33”) and get a beefed up better looking stance (for looks), but without sacrificing my on road ride quality since it’s a daily driver spending 95% of the time on highways and country back roads.
I didn’t want to go pure blocks and spacers because of all the negative reviews on here and I don’t wanna go cheap and cause long term damage which will cost more in the end (plus I’ve read it would ride like crap if I went that route to save $). So my research and budget of $1500 on suspension kit brought me to either this (OME full kit) or Bilstein 5100s and OME coils, or Toytec Boss kits. Positive ride quality reviews seemed to be most consistent with the full OME kit and price was right. I’m excited to see how I like it.
Two questions for you:
1. How much lift front and rear was achieved on your truck before weight and sag factored in, and after weight and sag? Do you think 888s will achieve more than 2” up front without me adding front weight?
2. Which front shocks do you have? 90021 (soft ride) or 90000 (stiff)?
Also have you tried getting rid of the squeak in the Dakar’s? I’ve read cleaning or greasing can fix... but idk... thanks

 

Hey OP, it sounds like you're almost set to pull the trigger! I've enjoyed my 887 / Dakar setup, and I'm sure you would, too. I kept my sway-bar with 90021's, and it was just fine for my use—which is mainly getting to remote campsites in the Sierras (+lots of freeway driving). I don't think I'd go with 000's unless you were running weight upfront and maybe no sway-bar. Dakars squeak, but you can mitigate that by keeping them clean and blasting them with fluid film every so often. The BOSS kit seems solid, too—but I don't have experience there. Post pics when you're done!