TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Yah I got that. That’s what I was watching for.

Believe I saw one of your pulley which had me wondering. I am wonder if I trimmed enough. Not much more I can go. Maybe 1/16

I was checking the 2.8 and 2.5 for clearance. I can go another 1/8 before the washer but not much until the snout.

 

Pics of the outlet please?

The below pics are of my supercharger prior to installing.

Yes this is restrictive.

Make sure you tape your bearings!

In case anyone is curious what the inside of sc looks like.


Roost

 

Anyone know how long or where I can get longer bolt/holder for my pulley holder or Do I need to get the other one folks were using? I just hit With an impact good. Tried to do it with the torque wrench but holder kept falling off.

what I have other posted in quoted comment.

 

I've been wondering what the heck you've been talking about for a while but have been too lazy to ask. That's actually a bearing dust cover not a washer. Lol.

 

Black is what I aimed to remove.
Some side scratches from the grinder. Very awkward to deal with anything in there. Also thinned out a good couple mm under the left side of the V where the air moves towards the intercooler. Took a tiny tiny amount of material off the inlet to the rotors (thought there'd be way more meat back there) but the way they cast the whole SC there seems to be maybe a quarter inch of material between internals and any outside surface. Very difficult to remove very much of anything safely.

 

This picture is pretty damning. Is that the area that runs over the the input shaft.



It does get pinched there a bit. But, they went wider to compensate. Would be interesting to somehow figure out what the area of the tightest point in there is.

 

Well, you’re not gonna go too much further considering that the snout cutting stopped there. With the belt installed, loosen up the ribbed idler pulley bolt a couple of turns and then turn the motor over by hand. The pulley should walk itself out to where the belt wants it to be. Shim accordingly.

 

Looks like a washer. Held in by a snap ring. I’ve never had it apart. So, I dunno what the other side of it looks like. I’m betting that there’s a bearing just on the other side of it.

 

Damn that's a nice little trick I'll have to remember.

 

It is indeed a bearing.



That's why I was like what the heck is he talking about.

Are you saying it'll press itself in the rest of the way if you do it in the way you described?

Eventually I want to press my hub further in because I'm tired of the misalignment up top on my idler setup.

 

Let's just machine some grooves directly onto the quick change hub. THat would make like a 1.5" !!! Who says smaller isn't better sometimes?

 

All the pulleys kind of have to cup over the snout and I don't think anything below 2.3 will fit as it will end up being a paper thin pulley on the part that rides over the snout. @Athlaos cut his retaining clip and that part of the snout completely off. He pressed on a 2.0 pulley or something. Belt slip might be an issue

A possibility might be a good quality sealed bearing pressed in to replace the open bearing with a metal washer for a seal and just chopping that part of the snout off.

 

I was also thinking the same thing as far switching over to a sealed bearing, but given that we are surpassing the superchargers adiabatic efficiency after a 2.5 and simply switching to a 2.3 for faster wind up purposes I really don't see a need in doing all that extra work to switch to a smaller pulley which will just cause more heat than not.

Unless meth is involved, but still.

I guess it would be a mod for an even more niche part of the group at that point.

 

I would think the most restrictive area is just aft of the snout to a few inches past the bend.

 

Yup, seem to be running into limitations of design.

 

Sounds like he’s saying the ribbed pulley will inch out to where it lines up. Then shim with some washers to like it up.

anyone been able to cut farther with the hub on? I stopped at the grey line but the line on the Magnusons seem closer, hence not allowing enough.

As stated does it cup over the snout? Seems like the 2.5 wouldn’t but it’s damn close.

 

2.5 does. Smaller requires creative grinding

 

Never tried with qc hub installed.

If you are going 2.5 and it almost fits then you could sand the snout with the qc hub on.

 

Anyone have a lead on the proper Valve Spring tool for our vehicles? Or a couple options?

Please and thank you.

 

Plan is 2.5 but will be starting off with a 2.8 prob for a half second to start. I went out and test fit the cutter to see. The hub itself is sightly larger then the opening but seems but not by too much. The cutter clears the hub with enough to spare. If needed it looks like I can drop some spacers in there so I am not pulling the hub on without realizing and would be able to trim down further if needed. Ill snap a few photos in daylight tomorrow.

What is too far on the snout? Looks like at most I may need to go another 1/8 further (TBD). I am going to press on a bit more and see how it lines up.