Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

Famous last words.

 

I’m looking into getting new steel rims made to fit my 2017 taco. I ordered 315-75-16 pro Comp mt’s today.

I’m currently running the factory 5 spoke steel rims with (16x7 +30 offset, around 5.18 backspace) 265-75-16bfg at, with a 1.25 inch spacer on the front end.

I’m plan on ordering a steel 16x8 inch rim with 3.75 inches of backspace. In theory this should give me more backspace than I have now by +or- .25.

Anyone have any thoughts on backspace numbers? I do have 2.5 inch resi’s mounted on frame in front of tires also.

Thanks, PB

 

5.29s hopefully going in this month.

400p compressor ordered.

So much more to do still. Damn this is a long road.

 

It'll give you more offset. But since it's a wider wheel it will keep the rim about the same distance from the frame.

 

I stopped by a local junkyard and scored a Chevy rim 16 x 8 with 4 inch backspace for 25 bucks. I’m using it for test fitting 315-75-16 pro comps prior to ordering custom rims.

The rear should clear with no issues.

The front will need the normal amount of clearancing as posted in this thread by others.

The total chaos spindle gusset is really, really close to inside wall of tire. So I think 3.75 inch backspace will work great. It will be nice to eliminate the spider trac spacers.

I’m going to have to relocate the fox 2.5 inch remote resi. to the top of frame rail and my need to put a longer hose on them.

Here’s some pic’s. I have wheelers super bumps on truck. In the compressed photo the bump is deformed about 1/2 an inch and truck was light on jack stand. I still had 2 inches of clearance until fender.

The droop photo is set at where the suspension maxed out with Coilover on.

Time to start cutting and welding today.

Most likely the rim will be available for other to use if needed. America’s tire was cool and mounted it for free.

Can’t wait to go off-roading with the dirty5’s.

PB

 

If you went far enough to remove the CO you should remove the bump and cycle it again, super bumps compress to almost nothing on hard hits and the motion ratio between the bump and the tire is large enough that the small distance will very likely cause interference. Static loading a rubber bumpstop in a garage doesn't come anywhere close to real world situations.

Removing the bump and cycling will help compensate for:
Frame flexing
Chassis flexing
Suspension components flexing
Suspension bushings compressing
Body mount bushings compressing
Bump compression from the weight of the truck offroading

 

Good advice here.

 

I’m planning on a 2/1 motion ratio from bumpstop location to edge of tire. I also plan on adding fender flairs and trimming top of fenders if needed. But for now it’s close enough. Hell I might even roll fenders with a bar to get that little bit more clearance.

 

Caught this sick build at Hoopers rear ends waiting to get gears. It’s on 35’s!

 

Thanks for the thread! I decided to take the dive and started cutting some plastic ahead of my wheels and tires arriving.

 

I finally got a couple more hours in to fitting the 35’s. I relocated the 2.5 inch reservoir to the top of the frame rail. In the original location the tire was hitting the hose and the body of the reservoir. I released the nitrogen and then loosened the two fittings on the reservoir and rotated to the alinement shown in pictures. The radiator hose clamp was rotated 90 degrees, facing down, to provide clearance and allow easy removal later. There is over an inch of clearance between the radiator inlet and the reservoir mount.

I only need to trim the lower 2 to 3 inches of the fenders front and rear. The pinch seam was folded to the outside of vehicle and messaged with the sledgehammer. I did a pretty generous cmc. The tire stuffs nicely now and I think I can fit the majority of the inner plastic fender back on.

 

I have not forgotten the steering rack project... this one here, it has the larger spool valve and 35mm rack bar (30mm stock, page 10? for pics), not to mention the larger body and the ability to accept much beefier tie rods. The main mount is in the proper location, and most importantly... the length of the rack body and bar are oh so close to the stock unit. There are a couple of unknowns, they are going to be close, and could make or break it as a candidate for swapping. I'll add more info after I get my hands on one.

 

Is that a Cab Mount Relocate fab piece? Who makes it? Researching for future 35's myself.... and I kind of like the idea of (Clean look of) just relocating rather than chopping...
Thanks-

 

Made by Alpine Designs. Stellar Fab also has an option and is a trusted shop. I have an Alpine Designs as well and it does the job

 

I use the Red Goat Fab cab mount relocation. There is a thread in the BST section for them. Really good product.

 

Have you seen this?

 

Updated some things.

 

Yes, good stuff in that thread! I'm after something a little more towards the daily driver side of things.

 

Awesome and thanks, I wish we had a shop in the NE Florida like that Stellar... that looks great.