TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

ah beat me to it. I was install instructions are here too.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/cold_air_intake/flowmaster/parts/615141

 

All you need are two (2) M10x 1.25 bolts and a few washers to fit them and (optional) a grommet for the lower hole to fit around the hole that it utilizes on the body.

 

Absolutely!

 

if you have a spare intake grommet/sleeve from the factory intake that works perfectly. I happen to have one which I used and lucked out and had some bolts. I used a shorter one for the one near the grill since it didnt need to be that long.

 

That's right. I think that's what I did as well. I pulled a grommet from the spare FJ intake that I had in the garage. Worked out great.

 

I think we needed to cut @racebug68 a bit more after pressing the hub on. I remember flipping the cutter around and being able to make it work. Maybe Travis will remember better.

 

I think you did do that.. I remember something like that too.

 

I appreciate that.

I thought that bracket moved the air pump to the rear of the engine compartment, whereas the Flowmaster one moves it forward.

I need to figure out which way I want to move the pump.

 

Dayum... Currently Unavailable.

 

Weird, the tag didn't alert me at all to the fact that you were asking me something. I thought it did send out some sort of alert?

Anyway... Wow... I vaguely remember something but honestly nothing specific regarding cutting after the hub on... Sorry. What I do remember well was trying to get that damn URD pulley off of @XPOTRPR truck.... that was a little bit of insanity

 

@Flake Boost im sure there are other brands that are the same. thats the joy on Amazon. lol.

 

Hey guys I really need your help. I just snapped the 3rd tensioner pulley on the magnuson supercharger. I only have about 35 thousand miles on the supercharger. What could be causing this to happen so often. I know the tensioner is built kinda weak, but this is getting expensive replacing this part. I do have urd 2.8 pulley with smaller gates belt. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I think I'm going to purchase the beefier one this time around. Thanks

 

There was a lot of talk on some of the newer tensioners that would appear to be showing signs of casting failures. The failures can also be caused by too short of belt. Might want to post up a part number. With the 2.8" pulley, I just ran a stock belt length (gatorback).

 

K080702HD this is the belt I used from gates.

 

I’m running a 2.85 stealth on the stock belt. I think you may be using a belt that is too short. You may also want to look into getting the upgraded rousch tensioner. It’s on the first post of thid thread if you wanna get that one. Its much stronger but if your belt is too short you may start shredding that instead of the tensioner

 

You are most likely snapping the tensioner due to the tensioner being out of it's normal range with the shorter belt. Something is going to give in this situation and for you it seems the tensioner is the victim.

I'd get a Rouch tensioner anyway (what I use) since you need to replace anyway and make sure after install whatever belt you choose keeps the tensioner in approx the middle of its range.
Check this after installing belt and turning engine over to seat the belt.

This is uninstalled so no tension. When you use your breaker bar to get the belt on this should be approx in the middle.

Hope this helps,

Roost

 

ok thank you guys, I will purchase the steeda tensioner. I swap the pulley onto the steeda correct.

 

or the Roush and the 50mm double roller! This is what most people use on here. No experience with the Steeda but the Roush gets a ton of praise.

Either one you can swap the stock pulley onto it.

 

No issues running the Roush tensioner and double roller here on a smaller belt @Tennessee98

 

checking through things before I finish up. When manually turning the crank shaft with a breaker it turns fine except for one point where it seems to catch it push back. I removed the S/C belt and it still does that.

Why should I check? anything to do with Air and possibly no coolant yet? Anything more serious to check? I did replace cam gears aside from the S/C.

I assume it’s prob compression since the plugs are in but wanted to be sure.