Supercharger oil change tips and help.

Hello all. Just wondering if anyone out there has some tips on changing the oil in a supercharger. I have a 1999 Limited with 162k miles on it and I don't know if it's the original oil in there or not so I want to change it soon. Any help would be great. Thanks..

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/21885505/

 

Four cylinder or six cylinder?

 

I used this oil kit:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/323655576020

Here’s my 3RZ 2.7l supercharger.

 

for every 100 3.4 superchargers there is like one 2.7..... I've been looking lol.

 

Yeah it was unbelievably hard to find mine haha. LC Engineering still sells it new.

 

I haven't looked in a while, what is it 3.8k?

I still rather repaint the 4wd before power mods.

 

High boost is a few hundred more than low boost. Low boost is roughly $2,700

https://www.lceperformance.com/2RZ-2-4L-3RZ-2-7L-High-Boost-Supercharger-Kit-1995-p/7015190.htm

 

High boost or go home tho tylah.

 

At that point why not just turbo it? The 4cyl tends to do well with turbos from what I hear. I saw a thread that 16lbs was still good on stock internals on a 3rz too.

 

I’d turbo if it was legal in CA. But it isn’t, so a CARB legal supercharger is the only legal way of forced induction.

 

Ah yeah, but I believe there are some counties that have no in person inspections? Also the high boost kit isn't legal in ca so if we were talking about the high boost, we were either taking it off for smog or not taking it in. So why not turbo and just pull the setup off once every two years?

 

I don’t want to highjack OP’s thread but I’m running a high boost pulley on my supercharger. I sandblasted the red annodized coating off and painted it black. I also filled in the manufacturer engraving with bondo so it appears stock. I just got it smog’d and they didn’t notice it.

Yeah, I could do a turbo and remove it every two years. But that’s something I don’t want to do personally. Supercharger I just leave it alone and forget about it.

I looked into the emissions free counties and there’s only a handful of them, mostly in rural areas. You can’t have a PO Box either. It has to be a physical address, the same one on your driver’s license.

 

True, having to take it off every two years would be a pain and would definitely teach you whether or not it is worth it pretty quick. Personally I'm hoping to do a twin charged setup someday but who knows...

In response to OP, if it is a 3.4, it should have an oil drain plug and a fill plug, would recommend a small cup with a rag under it when taking the oil out. Smell the oil, if it is smells really really bad, you might want to look at the rotors and make sure they are alright and that the rear bearings don't need to be replaced. When I had to take mine off the oil reeked, was probably never changed or was maybe changed once in it's 200k lifetime. You are most likely fine though as long as it still makes boost.

 

There is a write up on this page for changing out the oil.

 

The Teflon coating tends to flake off from age too and produce less boost. High Speed Labs will rebuild your supercharger for around $1,000.

Difficult job to DIY. There are blind needle bearings in the back of the case that are hard to reach.

 

@1997tacomav6

 

I have the v6 factory installed version on mine. Thanks for that link Sicyota04. That should get me through it. I just ordered a kit on ebay too.

 

This video covers more than just renewing the fluid. It's fairly hard to get a hose down in there to suck all the old oil out. At play time 39:43, we talk about how you can get in there to get most of the oil out using some window washer hose and a 10cc syringe. The plastic tubing that comes with the oil change kits isn't going to help you get the oil out. The diameter of the hose is way too big and it's nowhere flexible enough to make the necessary bends to get under the gears so you can draw the old oil out.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/56KhWJPUevk

 

The Teflon is a heat barrier and helps seal the gap between the rotors and the case.

You can have just the rotors coated or case or both coated depending on the company.

You can have two coats applied for a thicker coat if needed for the seal.

The Teflon coating on my last rebuild at 100,000 was 95 percent still in tack.

The oil change is said in places as life time and 100,000.
BUT!!!!!
It should be changed 30-50k but doesn’t need to but the bearings will fail sooner.

Typical the snout bearing will fail first where the oil is stored.

Oil should be changed sooner than later if your running a smaller pulley.
You can actually use mobile one for your supercharger oil.

Typical a supercharger with the stock pulley will go more miles before a rebuild maybe 150,000. If the supercharger is making noise it’s time,

You don’t want part of a bearing getting sucked into the engine

The smaller the pulley the faster the supercharger is spinning and the faster the bearings will wear.
I think the stock pulley might be around 10krpms give or take and a 2” pulley is maybe at 15k rpms.
Somewhere in that range not exact numbers.



Im running a smaller 2” pulley and change my oil at 30,000,
It only takes me 10 minutes with the plug that I had installed on the top of my gray supercharger , sucking it out you get probably 90 percent out, if you want to get 100 percent out you can remove the snout, so why not change it sooner and be safe.
You can actually use a home hand type lotion pump from a bottle type container to pump the oil out, just clean it 1st.

With the smaller 2” pulley the supercharger needs to be rebuilt around 100,000.

If your running a 2” pulley and a rebuild is needed it would be good to
have the high temp nose snout seal be added and double lip seals added.

The rear bearings I’m not sure how hard they are to get out.

There are two different black case styles where the rear bearings are on the black supercharger
and the gray supercharger is different then the two black case.

One of the black gen style is a pain I’ve hear and one is easier.