Kicker hideaway- final upgrade to the $250(+) 3rd gen premium upgrade (+Kicker Key 180.4 amp)

Did you ever figure this out? I literally had the same issue just now. Had to call it quits for the night.

 

Not yet, I was going to try tackle that this weekend. I ended up buying a new Hideaway only to find that it didn’t work either. I will rewire again to see if I missed any connections.

 

Man! I hope thats not also my issue, I went thru loops to get a wiring harness from who I bought from, ended up getting a favorable discount because of it. Someone somewhere else in thread had a bad hideaway also though right. Good luck! Will report back as well later today

Edit: disconnected, reconnected speaker inputs, fiddled with settings on hideaway per instructions and destin’s suggestions listed throughout TW, hideaway seems to be functioning as it should be now.

Perhaps I had a loose connection, settings weren’t dialed right... wish I had a definitive answer to offer some contribution.

 

Glad you got it going!

 

I had the same problem when I went to do mine. I'm no audio guy but with reading post from plenty of helpful people I was able to get mine to work.
I have a write-up on what id did on Tpp4's No Nonsense Guide to Kicker Key T-Harness (16-19) posy # 154. Sorry I can't copy the link for you right now.

 

Link in my signature

 

So I think I am actually having this problem right now, what's the fix for it, relay?? It's on the Alpine amp with the amp turn on passthrough. Radio won't turn off when truck is running, just turns back on again

 

Do you have the power pack?
If so, the remote wire In the RCA harness is an input, the remote wire on the speaker harness is an output.

 

@destin_meeks sorry to bother you, I know EVERYONE comes to you. If you get the chance can you see below and give me a thumbs up or down? Appreciate your time and all you do to answer questions for us!!

 

Yeah looks right. Just make sure the wires from the male connectors (that would plug into the radio) go TO the amp/DSP, and that the wires from the female connectors (that connect to the factory wiring) are coming FROM your amp. Unless you plan on running new wiring to your speakers

 

Yeah, I just did a t-harness with 5 leads (front- left/right and remote) as I am going to abandon the factory speaker wires and run new wires to all the doors. Thanks!

 

Yes, I have tried both ways of hooking it up, one with the passthrough, then one without the passthrough and straight to the remote turnon on the harness. Neither works for the turn off when truck is running but it turns off when the truck turns off

 

Wait what?

 

When the truck is running I can't turn the radio off. It just turns back on a second after. Kind of like the loop that you where talking about in a couple posts back.

 

You mean you can’t turn it off with the power button / volume knob? I don’t think that has to do with the remote wire (but I could be mistaken)
Unplug the amp and see if it will turn off then

 

Maybe,. It kind of sounds like the repeat staying on through the blue wire, but I can try it tomorrow.

 

If you unplug the amp and the radio keeps doing this same thing, then you know it’s not related to the amp. And vice versa, if the radio starts working normally with the amp unplugged, then it IS the amp and I would find another turn-on source.

 

Yeah that was my next step, I was just wondering if you'd ever seen that before and what the fix was.

 

I still don’t think it sounds right in my head though. The blue wires in the Metra harnesses are outputs from the radio and they shouldn’t be able to keep the radio on. Only the red wire is an input and should do that. That’s where the problem originally occurred. A member used the Metra red accessory wire instead of the blue remote wire, and then his amp was back feeding signal to the accy wire, keeping the radio powered up.

 

I have red going directly to battery for amp, and ground to chasis in headunit area. I'll take it out today and see if anything is cross connecting. The virus ban has been lifted here so if I can't figure it out I'll take it to the audio shop so he can take a wack at it. "Side note". Those that have an actual sub in a mdf box, is it bass over kill with the sub for bass. I am from a audio background, and these kicker speakers and amp sounds damn damn good. I don't know if I would want more bass in that smallish cab. I was looking at a duel 10" before I installed speakers and amp but now I'm kind of rethinking it.