How do I go about fixing this leak at the A/C condenser?

Well I just messed up bad.

After 1 hour the vacuum dropped by from 30 to 29 hg. So I decided to take the fitting apart again to sand it to see if I can improve the sealing surface. Now it loses vacuum right away. It’s hard to sand evenly since the fitting is pointed backwards. Using an inspection mirror I can see high and low spots on the flange caused by sanding. When I sprayed the connector with soapy water I see it sucked right in.

I just ordered a new discharge hose that has the connector from Autozone and so I will have to replace the entire hose tomorrow. If it still doesn’t hold vacuum with he new hose I guess I will have to order a new condenser since I scraped and sanded the sealing surface on it as well.

 

I replaced my condenser and a hose after my car crash. I took it to some tree shade mechanic and it wouldn't hold a vacuum. So we filled it with freon and gas and there was no leaks that we could find. Maybe the pump is bad? It's been two weeks and pressure hasn't dropped.

 

I’m pretty sure I butchered the connector because the vacuum drops right away when turn off the valves on the manifold gauge and soap water got sucked right into the connector while the vacuum pump was running.

I ordered a “Four Seasons” discharge hose from Autozone because they can get it by tomorrow and I hope it’s not a piece of crap.

 

Might as well replace the condenser. It’s easy and it’s cheap.

 

Autozone only haa a Spectra Premium condenser but it’s $150. Rock Auto has a CSF for $65 and a Denso for $70 so I probably would get one of these if I had to. The CSF connector block looks a sturdier than Denso

On a related note, since water actually got sucked into the connector, do you think the drier in the condenser is done for or will vacuuming still remove the excessive water that got in? If it does hold with a new discharge hose, I rather just keep the existing condenser if I didn’t mess up the drier.

 

If it was my truck I would replace the condenser, orifice tube, the leaking hose, and O rings at the leaking connection. In all the AC repairs I have ever done soapy water after a fresh AC refrigerant charge has been the best most full proof leak test method. (for me at least)

 

And this is why I don't like vacuum for a leak test. Add dry nitrogen to build some pressure then soap it, You will find the leak without pulling soap and water into the system,

 

Did you replace the connection with a new O ring?

 

No orifice tube in these trucks, it''s an expansion valve.

 

Yes, I replaced it with a new sealing washer. It’s not sealing because the mating surface on the connector is not perfectly flat any more. I admit I used an aftermarket (Four Seasons) sealing washer, not a genuine Toyota sealing washer.



Also, I found this post below that is a few years old. Is it what he said true?

 

I wish. I should have just left it alone instead of trying to improve it after the vacuum reading dropped only very slightly.

 

A deep extended vacuum will remove the moisture IF it hasn't been wet for very long.

 

Read thru it, I don't think it is. Or I've been trolled, again.

 

The thing is all those hose connections on the gauge manifold can leak vacuum too.And they can leak pressure, the system runs under pressure.
Why would you test it under vacuum?!

 

How long should I pull a deep vacuum to ensure sure I get all of the moisture out of the drier? I sprayed the connection 3 times until I began to noticed soapy water being sucked in.

My goal is to try to finish this tomorrow so that’s why I’m trying to avoid buying a new condenser. If I have to buy a new condenser, it’s going to delay another week.

 

Out of frustration I just wanted to confirm if the connector is still actually leaking after cleaning the corrosion and installing a new sealing washer.

 

How long? Forever if you don't find and FIX the leak. I'm gonna catch some shit for this but it you have an air compressor with DRY air in it usr to pressure the system and find the leak. Then fix the leak and recheck with dry air. THEN you can pull a long vacuum to clear the system and recharge.
This is why we don't leak test with a vacuum!!!

 

OK but confirm with pressure, not vacuum. Sucking soapy water into the AC system is not a good thing.

 

Like I said. . .