3rd Gen DIY maintenance quick reference

My dealerships website. Their prices are pretty good there surprisingly.

 

Ah, I see. one is a deodorant filter, the other is a standard filter

 

Yes, sorry to confuse you. Was not my intention.

 

No problem, I think ill add both. I'm seeing the standard filter still available from some sources

 

that is what I use, I get them on Amazon, last one I bought was under 6 bucks.

 

Agreed worked great for what I needed it for.

Wasn't for gear oil though used amsoil with the sweet pouch. Used it on my motorcycle, wifes car, and pending a gear oil check in my T case and trans

 

Sub'd, awesome info, thanks!

 

Sorry if it’s been addressed in this thread, I tried various search options (including Google) and didn’t find anything for my question.

About to change out the front brake pads on my 2017 TRD OR with about 75,000 miles. Original pads still have 2-4 mm. Mostly highway miles and I let the engine do a lot of my braking, so I get long life out of pads typically.

2 questions:
1. Do I need to get my rotors turned? They have plenty of thickness left, basically still at full thickness. Rotors seem smooth and straight, small step (0.010-0.030”) near the inner hub flange where the pads end/don’t make contact.
2. When I remove the old pads, with the OR braking system, can I just push the pistons back with a c-clamp or other fancy piston return tool (thanks social media, I bought one), or is there something I need to do before I push the pistons back?

I’ve worked on motorcycle and mountain bike disc brakes a ton, just haven’t done much with my vehicles. Thanks.

 

I would always turn the rotors in the past, but it’s hard to find someone to do it for a reasonable rate any more - and don’t get me started on the drums I’ve found it about as cheap to get new rotors and drums as to have the old ones resurfaced. I hate throwing away good stuff though - the old ones make great trot line anchors If they are smooth and straight and don’t have a mirror finish; then it probably won’t hurt to just do pads. Worse case you need to get another set of pads and then address the rotors.

I have a ‘16 OR and c-clamps worked great. I did see somewhere where a guy had modified a caulk gun to do that. Always wanted to give that a try. I’ll have to post again if I find it.

 

I got one of these things for $40.

I’ve installed a lift, sliders, skids, Meso puddles and other things on the truck but never really worked on my truck brakes. Seems simple enough after working on high end bikes and motorcycles. Just want to make sure I’m not missing anything obvious with the electromechanical OR brakes. Wasn’t sure if pushing fluid back through the system could cause issues.

**Edit: Added photo of my rotor, lazy and didn’t want to pull the wheel. Not sure if you can glean anything from this image.

 

I never turn rotors anymore. If they're wearing pretty evenly and not warped at all, I just replace pads and keep on rolling. It's never been a problem for me. I do mostly highway driving as well and the last time I replaced a set of rotors was on my old 2005 Colorado with 155,000 miles on it and even they weren't totally spent.

I always use a c-clamp to compress the pistons, placing the old brake pad between the clamp and the piston, works great, no special tools needed.

 

I'd just swap pads and the clips that hold them if my rotors look like that when it's time, if you're not getting pulsing in the pedal. Worst case you get a few less miles out of your new pads.

 

Hey guys and gals

Who sales OEM Oil the cheapest online?

Local dealership are marking it up to $12 a qt

BAM Warehouse?

 

I usually get the 6qt deals on ebay. Usually around $40

 

I did all my fluids yesterday and FYI, no need to remove front skid for the front differential..

 

Only the #2 skid has to be removed. That only applies to models with the #2 skid (off road, TRD pro)

 

Almost at 52k miles on my 2016 and still on original pads up front...will stay with OEM brakes and rotors when I do change them...

 

no change.

 

Changed my transmission filter today! Pretty simple job. I'm glad I did it, I wouldn't say the filter was bad, but it was getting there. Magnets looked maxed out. Cleaned them all up

 

What mileage you at?