Switch Pros 9100 install and BS thread

1-4 are 20amps
5-8 are 35amps

I have all Cali raised brand, Ditch light, 30” bumper bar and 40” on the roof of my prinsu. Is it ok to run em 1-4 @ 20amps each? Are the 5-8 for bigger components?

 

If you look at the spec sheet for the light, it’ll usually tell you. Or you can hook it up and try it. If it draws too much power, the switch pro will shut down that circuit.

my rigid SR40 had to go on one of the 35 amp switches. Ditch lights and 30” bars of mine all run fine on the 20 amp.

 

thank u. Cause all my lights were running 30 amp green fuse!

 

Used an existing OE switch panel and left the CaliRaised 3 switch panel as a backing plate. Not flush fine by me but also Save $

 

final results, finally all done! Looming wires took the longest (took my sweet time) because I wanted it neat and clean, for later power tray install. Install was easy DIY, except it was time consuming. After I get my power tray I’ll shorten all the wires a bit more. I used the supplied bracket and made it to fit vertically like it was recommended. I used my existing Bluesea6 as ground source and is an extra power supply source for like my yotamafia rock lights and under hood kc cyclone lights. Whereas I didn’t tie any of those to my SP. rock lights are tied into the bed light switch. Here are some pics

 

I'm starting to tackle all my lighting accessories and picked up the

$659 SP9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

SP9100. I've looked through all the threads on these setups, and they are all very clean!!! My only problem is I didn't see anyone post about mounting the SP with a manual. I have a 2018 Tacoma OR 6MT. Does anyone have a solution to mounting the power module with a 3rd gen manual?

 

had a member here @AY_ARONTRD custom fabricate a mounting bracket to go on my MT

 

Here’s mine (2017 MT TRD OR). Used an SDHQ bracket.

 

That looks really nice man! Very clean!! I was looking at fabricating a bracket but I see you and @Shellshock both are using the same bracket. Looks like ill have to wait for a couple days to finish tackling this.

@Shellshock Thats about what im expecting mine to look like when I get done. @YSL is a little too much for my beginner electrical mind to grasp haha

Thank you guys!

 

I've got a couple questions about the

$659 SP9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

SP9100

In section 15 of "SP9100 functions" section of the manual it states you are able to make a switch function as a SPDT/SP3T.
Does this mean you could control a low and high feature of an aux light? I'm considering adding some BD LP6s which have a low/high setting and this would be neat to control with a single switch. Though I'm unsure how you could wire this accordingly if there are dedicated wires for the low and high. Does that make sense?

 

I'm working on wiring up my

$659 SP9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

SP9100 and I plan on using the IGN fuse like you did. The AAF that came with the kit came with a 2 amp fuse. It appears like you have a 5 AMP fuse and the 10 for the ignition under it. Is that correct? Why did you replace the 2 with a 5. Sorry for the newbie question. I'm using the quarantine to get better with electrical.

Great looking setup though.

 

At a quick glace, I though you had wired your hot to your ground battery terminal and my brain exploded until I realized what I was looking at

 

Noob question how do I setup strobe flash? Via lightbar ditchlights?

 

Go through the switch setup and you can either set it as strobe for double press or one touch

 

Trimmed to stock bezel to fit the switch plate. Very happy with the result.


Ordered the aluminum plate to make the mount for the unit. Should be done next weekend. Excited to add some area lights for camping.

 

Hey guys, I finally got all of my gear, I think, that I need to install my Switch Pros for my Uptop Overlad rack. I have read through the thread and done other research that I thought might help, but I'm a complete newb at this and have no idea what I'm doing. I'm scared $h1tl3$$ that I'm going to screw something up. I guess what I'm really looking for is a step by step or something for Dummies to help guide me. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, links to other threads, sites, whatever. I'm tired of paying people to do shit and want to attempt to tackle this myself and start doing things on my own rather than pay someone $100 an hour. Thanks

 

Just completed my install yesterday. Really just 4 main wires to worry about but send me a PM and I can make a short video that shows the step-by-step. Actually pretty easy on the Gen 3. Toughest part was getting into the cab without destroying the water-resistance of the boot on the firewall. I wanted to tap the USB circuit fuse below the dash for my ignition source so I had to pull that and the controller wire through the boot. Came up with a pretty easy method but there are many ways to do it. Wasn't a fan of affecting the integrity of the fuse box under the hood but that is another option for the ignition wire. Sensor wire for the lights works easily tapped off the front/driver's side marker light (purple wire) using the provided connector.

After that, it's a matter of connecting your loads... which can be done many different ways.

 

You can run everything into the hood fuse box following the factory wiring. Super easy.

 

Finished this over the weekend for a member

 

Oh! I like that setup! Saw a few builds like this but wasn't comfortable with disassembly of the box penetration. I messed with it for a bit and determined that I like the in-cab option better. Also really wanted to tap a non-vital circuit, which is why I went with the USB power.

How do you get access that lower wire penetration for the box under the hood?