Simple dash switch wiring question.

Ahoy! I have a switchpro 9100 and blue sea fuse block combo (similar to pic), and I'm running out of room on the switchpro so I'm changing my FTM-400XDR ham radio (12 amp draw) from the switchpro to the blue sea fuse block, and changing on/off functionality to a switch on the dash. The dash switch has a red 1, red 2, black, and green. There is only a power and ground going to the radio. I'm a bit confused and could use a hand. I might be missing a relay, but unclear since I usually just clip all the excess relays and fuses off new components, as I only need power and ground for the switchpro. That might have made it too easy for me.

Current wiring:
Power right from the swichpro to the radio.
Ground right from the terminal block next to the switchpro, to the radio.

New wiring:
Is the following correct?

Power from blue sea fuse block to green wire on switch.
Red 1 from switch to power wire (red) on ham radio.
Red 2 to tap-a-fuse on interior fuse block
Ground I'm having trouble with. In this case I just need to ground the switch correct, since the ham radio is already grounded directly to the blue sea fuse block? So I can just find a ground back there or splice it in to the existing ground?

This can't be right, since it seems the switch can only handle 3 amps, yet in my proposal it would be taking 12 amps. So where am I going wrong here?

Thanks for your help!

 

Wanted to add that in all the threads I've read about this, there are always 3 wires coming from the component. (Usually a light bar). In my case I've only got a power and a ground coming from the ham radio, which is what is adding to the confusion.

 

Green 1 is power for the one led and low amp to allow the switch to send your signal to the red 1. red 2 is for the other led , both in the switch. Red 1 is your trigger for your relay. Black is your ground, just ground anywhere nearby
Use a relay between the switch and the radio.

 

Soooo red 2 and green are simply for the switch LEDs huh?
I don't have a relay anywhere, so unclear about red 1. Red 1 just goes straight to the radio?

Even with this, I'm still unclear how to turn red and black coming from the radio, into black, green, red 1, and red 2 for the switch, then back into red and black to the battery. I seeminly just gave myself a fish instead of teaching myself how to fish with the switchpro.

Thanks for the reply!

 

Example

 

Green 1 may not work a led depending on the switch internals, but either way it provides trigger current for your relay and out through red1

 

Seems I need to add a relay...

Feels like I would just be adding additional complexity though.

 

You will be keeping your switch from Burning up

The relay isolates your switch from the high amps. You could buy a high amp switch, instead.

 

Ah I see. That sounds like a good thing.

 

Relays keep the high amp stuff away from the switch, out of the passenger compartment, and can separate aux from factory wiring.

 

Ok after quite a bit of research and speaking with a knowledgable friend, I have a pretty good understanding of what needs to be done, and how these switches and relays work. Very excited to have a new level of understanding about this.

This is making a whole lot more sense now.

If I connect it in this manner, I'm assuming I will not be able to operate the switch when the truck is off. What would I need to do to be able to operate the switch when the truck is off?

Thanks for the help by the way. Much appreciated.

 

If you tie in to a always hot circuit for G and R2 then you can operate the switch/relay with the truck off.

 

In my setup, I have a wire harness from my powertray (hooked to battery) that comes in to the cab to control all my switches, the harness is always hot because my powetray is always hot. Unless I flip the circuit breaker. This allows my switches and my accessories to work with the truck off.

 

I was fooling around with the panel I built last night and testing it, I can not decide if I want the LED and switch hot all the time... I keep going back and forth. The truck rarely sits very long and the LEDs would take forever to kill the battery, but that one time and I would be SOL. I could always just flip the breaker... Something to think about.

 

So if I just simply don't connect red 2 to anything, and connect green to an always hot circuit, the button will be functional at all times, the LED will light up when button pressed, but never be lit up when the button is off, regardless of truck state. Is this correct?

That harness is sexy AF by the way.

 

Sort of, the switch has two LEDs. One, typically the name (aux lights in mine) is always lit (R2).The symbol in my example, is the Green LED and only lights when I push the switch.
Thinking about my setup, I am going to tie R2 into my dash circuit, but the Green will be on my always hot panel so I can easily see if I left the switch on.

 

There it is. That's the right solution. I get it now. Gonna be a damn rats nest just for one switch, but at least it's right.

 

Here is my wiring diagram in progress, there may be some mistakes, double check as I am still working on it

 

Jesus you need a switchpro my friend.

Only possible issue I see is having all the switch greens connected directly to the bus. Is that potentially a hazard? What fuse would you pop in there?

 

I'd run the radio straight off the battery hot and ground. You should be able to turn the radio on/off via a button on the faceplate and avoid all the switching mess.

Going through a switchpro / bus ground can add "noise" to the transmission signal for the radio, and can potentially mess with your switchpro as well. I was having issues with my 8100 and they specifically asked if I had a radio powered by it.