TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

That would be awesome man! I'll probably take you up on the OE throttle body just in case.

Hang on... Now that I think about it I think I've seen my 2012 throwing a brake switch code before back in the day before I started tuning this thing. Could it possibly be a bad switch is engaging ever so slightly? I don't think HPTuners monitors brake pedal input activity does it?

 

Soooo, I ordered Roush tensioner from LMR.

just to confirm I now need to swap out the 76mm to a 50mm pulley, correct?

 

yes, pulley part number is on page 1.

 

let me know. I still owe an alternator as well. I got new harness done, just gotta finish the fuse and distribution block.

that would totally make sense, no power braking sucks.

 

Ok, the wife’s thought is good louvers. Anyone running them and have pictures? Anyone tested to see how well they work at dropping under hood temps? Sorry @XPOTRPR her and I both said hell no to the snorkel. And don’t want to route it into the cab either. Just looking at options to drop intake air temps a good chunk.

 

Front scoop, like AFE or volant or URD CAI perhaps

 

Engine cage won’t really accept those. Started with a urd cai to get what I have lol.

 

I have this conspiracy theory that factory parts are designed with inferior parts to fail early in order to make you have to buy parts. The longer I own this truck the more I feel that way as I'm slowly watching things fail that should not be failing this soon. Lol. I'll keep you in the loop!

I have sort of been contemplating louvers for some time as well. It would be cool to have them on a truck!

 

I recall some company or guy (cant recall who that made a pretty nice setup. Saw it on a few FJ's.

 

I'm a big fan of analog so was checking out an AFR from Speedhut and a boost gauge from Speedhut.
Looks like the boost gauge comes with a sensor, I've read that can be connected to the vacuum port using a T, or into the exhaust manifold. Any thoughts on that?
It looks like the AFR gauge doesn't come with a sensor. I emailed the company and asked if it does come with a sensor, if not, will a Denso fit, if not what do they recommend. Hopefully they get back to me soon.
You mentioned having a muffler shop weld in a bung, would this be to close the hole left by the original O2 sensor? Then would the (hopefully, if it fits) Denso sensor be installed somewhere downstream?

 

I really want to know more about this engine cage of yours.

 

louvers it is

 

I use both of those gauges. I may also have an extra sensor. Let me check. You will still need the extension from the gauge which I’m not sure comes with it. The sensor plugs are universal, but I am pretty sure I have two and only one bunghole.

 

I remain happy with my Speedhut gauges. FWIW, I went with a GL1-265 AFR (which includes a sensor and bung) and a GL-BOOST-08 boost gauge. I also liked the fact that they offer a great deal of customization (e.g., fonts, colors, logos, etc).

Install of both is straightforward, though the AFR cable isn't long enough, so you'll need an extension cable. The boost gauge is connected via T to the boost reference port on the top rear of the S/C. (I don't understand how/why a boost gauge would connect into the exhaust manifold.)

 

depending on which one you get the AFR does come with a sensor. You can get it without as well. I have both the boost and AFR gauge from speedhut as I wanted a nice analog set.

These are the ones I got. Still need to install. I picked up the analog out for if/when I upgrade to HP Tuner pro. The wideband came with an included sensor.

GR1-236
2-1/16" Standalone Air/Fuel Wideband with Analog Out, O2 gauge 8.5-18 (w/ warning)

GR-BOOST-01
2-1/16" Boost/Vac Gauge 30inhg-0-20psi (w/ warning)

 

Well braking activity is still fine and as far as I know all brakes still illuminate, but I wonder if the brake lights are flashing for an ever so brief moment as the truck takes off before they finally turn off.

 

Thanks for the info, very helpful. Let me know if you want to get rid of it and for how much. Can an extension just be made from wire and terminals?
So it sounds like the AFR sensor goes into the factor O2 sensor hole?

 

Any thoughts it could be the new MAF sensor? Were still figuring mine out but I have had a few instances of stepping on the gas and nothing then it kicks in.

 

you don’t replace a factory sensor. I don’t think there is an extra spot on a factory y-pipe. You can replace one downstream if you HP delete them or use a sim. However, getting a bung put on is not a big deal.

 

You need to add another bung for it. If you want I can snap a photo of whats included. The gauge came with gauge, sensor, wiring, etc. All you needed to install it (assuming you have an extra bung.)

You can add a no weld for quick setup:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-690125

Or you need to get one welded on by a shop which also is prob not too hard just more involved.