Home Improvement Today?

Question, I’m rebuilding our deer blind on this trailer. Should I insulate this floor before covering it with 3/4” plywood? What about the walls? Advice and opinions welcomed, please. It’s 4’ x 7’.

 

That makes sense, especially with the kids in there at times. I'm going to glue and screw the floor so hopefully there won't be any squeaks.

 

This is what it was, threw it together out of pallets about 8 years ago. We’ve shot a many of deer out of it but it sure was cold and windy.

 

The problem in the past was always that the kids would destroy the new grass and since I wouldnt be home enough to water it right. Since im home now, and fenced off the area (I call it the corona grass, so the kids are scared of it) Im hoping it should grow better.

I used a mix of high traffic and shade seed there.

 

A contractor friend gave me the best DIY tip ever after I was complaining about the mental gymnastics required to measure tile for a bathroom remodel. He told me he only ever uses 16th's of an inch. Instead of measuring 23 7/8 he measures 23 14/16. (he also told me to never write the "16" because it's always the same.) Since the denominator is always 16 you can just add the numerators without the mental gymnastics required to add fractions.

I'm fluent in metric and imperial measurements because I have to use both. I have a mental picture of how big a centimeter is, divide that by 10 an you have milimeters. Same thing with inches, divide by 16 and you have sixteenths. But don't ask me how many centimeters are in a foot because I'll have to look it up. (google says 30.48) Seriously, if someone suggested the imperial system today they'd get laughed off the planet. See here's what you do, take an inch and multiply it by 12 and that will be called a foot. Then take that same inch and divide it by 16 for smaller measurements so you have 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 etc. Multiplying and dividing by 12 and 16 is simple right?! Now take that foot and times it by 66 and we will call that a chain. Now, take 80 chains and we will call that a mile. Makes sense right? The metric system rolls its eyes and says just use the same math like you use for everything else, duh.

 

I have one of those too. It's a PITA to have to get your phone out, but Murica!

 

There are companies that make metric/imperial tape measures

 

Question.

Some of the 2x6s I used for something pergola-like on my patio are sagging. Would 3 eyelets, a cable and a turnbuckle arranged like this help to take the sag out?



Anything else I should consider instead? I'd like it to be somewhat hidden, so on the back side of the 2x6, and because of the layout, doubling them up isn't really an option.

 

How long they been there? Only thing i can think of is put 1" square tube on top and drill and bolt it to the board recessed on the bottom side so it hides the bolt.

 

I built it last summer. Putting something on top will be difficult as I have other 2x6s keyed onto it. I love how it looks but they were an absolute pain in the ass to get to fit so I'd really rather not take it apart!



I knew it would deflect some but I wasn't expecting quite as much as it is.

 

Did you put the crowns up?

 

Construction Master Pro calculator FTW

https://www.calculated.com/productcart/pc/viewprd.asp?idproduct=101&mobile_pref=off

 

how long are they free spanning ?

 

That's the concerning part - I did!

Off the top of my head, about 10' for the one they're all keyed onto. The opposite side, which is just a mirror image, is okay.

The longest span (closest one in the picture), which is doing alright, is pushing 15'.

 

2x6 is not all that large a timber , not too surprising that you see some sagging depending on the particular joist's quality over its neighbours'

no easy fix

 

Part of my basement is my woodworking shop. It is a walk-out basement, giving me one wall to the outside and two walls of poured concrete. (The fourth wall is an interior wall.)

After being in this house for many years, I am now working on "finishing" the shop. I want to make it more like a shop and less like a basement...

My plan is to cover the poured walls with T1-11 plywood. I will leave the ply unpainted - it is a shop after all.

My question is what is the preferred method to attach the ply to the concrete? I am considering putting 1x2 strapping on the concrete, then screwing the ply to the strapping. I thought about building 2x walls in front of the concrete, but I don't need any electrical, so I don't think the walls are necessary.

Thoughts, opinions, suggestions?

Thanks.

 

I have the smaller yellow one

 

That's what I didn't want to hear.

I did some looking at post-tensioning and it looks like I might be on the right track so I'm going to give it a shot.

Isn't that like twice the cost of regular plywood?

If you're positive you won't need to run anything in the walls, you might as well go smaller on the strapping to keep the room (marginally) larger.