TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

True but I thought DT also had a Carb approved version? Even if thin how much would that matter for the Ti versions? Not a ton of options for us.

 

Sent!

DT does not have a CARB approved version otherwise I would had just went with them long ago.

 

Which one of the 3 are you running currently?

 

Nate actually made me a smaller hub, it's like 1.3" diameter or something, so I could get my 1.87" pulley on. Ya there might be some belt slip concerns.

 

Could you have it grinded off or covered with piece of metal welded over it? I have the DT shorties.....love em! I’m more than aware of your States issues but I’m sure you can figure out something

 

The 2011 V4.

 

File returned. I have a feeling it'll be a lot better. Please test and report back ASAP.

*This isn't the fix* it's just a demonstration that the issue is with the ECU believing it's at idle. The root cause would need to be investigated to determine why, but I wanted to demonstrate that THIS is the problem. Not the MAF/FPR mod/Etc.*

 

I have to run to the store here in a little bit. I will flash before I do and report back ASAP.

 

What about these DT shorties?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dte-515-1c hmmmm... they are 50 state OE approved.

Install:
http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/images/documents/THY-515-1-C-INST_C.pdf

Just realized its pre 2012... damn. JBA might be the only ones.

 

They are. The DT shorties have a carb eo # and I have never failed visual because of it.

It's the long tubes(DTs, JBA, UR) that do not have an EO #.

 

I updated my comment but its more about the 12-15 trucks. The OE approved ones are fr 05-11 trucks so they wont fit directly on the newer trucks.

JBA is the only one that has a 12-15 shorty in stainless, ceramic, ti options.

 

Crap...since it doesnt apply to me, i always forget about that secondary air tube on the newer 2ndGens. Im surprised that DT doesnt have a shorty for the 12-15.

 

The only ones who seem to make shorties for the 2012-2015 which are also CARB legal is JBA apparently.

 

Sonofabitch.

I think I may have just found the reason why the truck has been acting odd lately.

I went to go install the new coolant tank that @mightytacoman sent out to me and flash the new tune provided by @JustDSM for the potential stumble fix.

During my install I went to go disconnect the coolant pump and found that when I went to go plug it in I couldn't feel it working and I couldn't hear the coolant sloshing around. I went to investigate and I found that the fuse for the EFI no 2 was plugged in and everything looked okay but was making an intermittent power connection to the pump. Why I don't really know. So I just swapped over the coolant pump wire over to the other side of the fuse and everything works okay again. What a cheap afterthought crapass setup from Magnuson to run the coolant pp to run it that way. Now the actual cooling pump is working my boost pressures went down and overall coolant temperatures went down. I don't know how long I was running it like this but now I'm slightly paranoid and worried.

 

Need to find a reliable way to prove flow through the intercooler... It’s the achilles heal of this setup.

 

https://www.revel-usa.com/vls/ic-temp.html

 

I am gonna find a new circuit and also produce some LEDs here to show that the pump is active. I will wire it into an ignition circuit.

 

We need to come up with a centralized, express method of turning the pump into an ignition feed powered relay activated at engine running pump.

If we can do that, I think it would help everyone SEVERELY.

Way this thing is set up right now is a band aid method of powering a pump. Luckily I think I saved my engine by having HPtuners and Justin really neuter my tune, because if I didn't I think I would had popped the head gasket or even bent a valve. Now that everything is running correctly again, the truck suddenly has A LOT more power even with the neutered tune.

 

what a simple issue. I do not like the t tap they use. I was debating on changing it to an add a fuse that pretty much everyone else uses and is more sturdy then that crap t-tap they use.

The idea of a light showing its working is a great idea. That should be a pretty easy thing to tap into. Even tap into the same line that powers the pump with small diode.

 

Thats killer you stumbled onto that.