Flat towing truck with an RV.

I wouldn't do it any more without disconnecting the drive shaft. Could end up costing you big time.

 

Hey y’all! I got the RV! She’s a beast and has a Cummins L10 with Allison trans.

I’ve been looking into the flat tow issue more and someone/mechanic told me I could leave my truck running to keep the pump going lubing everything till I can figure out a way to install a bypass switch that’ll keep just the pump running ( most likely power from the rv so not to run my truck battery out ) on longer trips.

any thoughts on this?

 

This looks like a burning man rig.

 

I'm not going to change a thing. Hasn't caused even a bit of trouble over 12 years and 10,000 miles. I think I'm safe.

 

Gyrkin, Are there any differences between your 2000 and my 2004 that would make mine not be able to do this as well?

 

I don't think there are any diferances in the drive train, but really can't say for sure. Anyone else know?

 

Did my first test drive today. Everything seems to be ok. I disconnected the drive shaft. My only question is on the transfer case. Do I put it in neutral or 4hi like I do while I’m driving it. It’s the puck button kind..

I head home first thing tomorrow am ( about 500miles ) so I’d like to know before then if I’m going to fuck some thing up

 

I tow mine all the time and have a disconnect which is what you did the hard way. My transfer case remains in 2h and automatic in park. You did the correct thing taking the driveshaft off. I would say put the tcase in neutral or 2h as you do not want the front engaged in any way. Before I got mine I did extensive research and found that the transfer case has no true neutral which is why a disconnect is advised. Do you have a breaking system? Very important as well.

 

I don’t have a breaking system yet. Was looking into the break buddy but that will have to wait until after this trip. When I resend it it seemed ok. The rv has air breaks and although slow it does work well. I’ll just need to take it really slow and careful.

as far as the trade goes. I had it in neutral today and it seemed ok. Someone said to have it in 4H ( like it is when I’m driving in 2wd so not engaged ) for lubrication.

do you have any insight on that?

thanks again!

 

I have an old break buddy that I bought for $150 and it works fine. you should have one that ties in to your air brakes as they are very good. I do not think that you should be in 4h, you don't want the tc engaged. I keep my tc in 2h. nice rigby the way, congrats on your purchase!

 

Just for clarification the steering wheel needs to be unlocked as well. And to the comment to the guy with the manual trans, I am sure you are right that towing is fine. The auto is the troublemaker.

 

Aroma - can you elaborate on there being no 'true neutral' in the transfer case? Why call it neutral if it doesn't function that way?
I've been wondering this for a while... I've got a 5spd manual with the extra shifter for 4wd. My instinct is telling me that if the transfer case was set in neutral, then all 4 wheels would be disconnected from the engine... what am I missing?
(I haven't gotten all the detailed books for this beast yet.)

 

If you don’t have manual locking, unlocking front hubs doesn’t the front shaft turn all the time because the hubs are locked.

You have locked hubs?

 

You keep getting advise for an auto. trans. mixed in with manual info.

Just do a search. Lots of people have done it despite protests from the forum.

If you have a manual trans. there is no 'pump' for the trans. transfer case or front diff.

Now what position to put the 'electric' transfer case in? Ask someone who does it. I know the manual transfer case is fine to flat tow with manual transmission. Too many do it or have done it with no ill effects to be a concern. I really don't think our set up is so different from others similar, like a Ford Ranger (older ones) or S-10s.

 

I read a couple of years ago that the main shaft in the tc still spins when in neutral. This turns the transmission (AUTO) and causes all sorts of problems. Not an issue with a 5 speed in neutral.

 

Always thought for 4wd keep the transmission in gear and transfer case in neutral. Reasoning is tcase can take the spinning but tranny cannot and should remain fixed in gear

but then again I have a 2wd truck and have never flat towed it in my life

 

Years ago I read somewhere that you should put the transfer case in 2wd and the transmission in neutral. I don’t remember where I read that, but that is what I have always done. And as I have said in previous post, I’ve towed it that way every year for 12 years now without any problems.

 

So I’ve often considered getting an RV to live in full time and towing my 2nd gen so I could travel the country and wheel interesting places. Admittedly I haven’t put a ton of planning into it beyond “someday” as it isn’t a reality at this time. That said I always figured I’d just buy a flatbed car hauler trailer. The thought being to avoid flat towing and that if I break something super crucial I can winch it onto the trailer and fix it later without being stuck unable to tow. Any reason you settled on flat towing instead of a trailer? Besides the obvious extra expense that is. Nice RV btw, I think you have more square footage than my house. You should share some interior pics if you’re so inclined.

 

I don’t know if this was directed at me but I’ll throw in my two cents. I chose flat towing for expense mainly, but also we have no other use for a car hauling trailer in nowhere to store it.

 

weight, added expense, storage at home, storage while traveling. Next time you take a trip count the rv's with toads and see that flat towing is the way to go. I considered a dolly until I used one.