TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I didn’t catch the bubbling in the coolant comment. Yeah, that’s a game changer. Thought he was just trying to track down some massive boost gains.

 

You're mixing up crank and cam degrees. (see last pic) But, I see what you're getting at. First off, Retarding the cams has not given us any more time to evacuate anything. Duration has not changed. The events are just happening at different times.
Opening up the exhaust valve earlier is surely going to evacuate more exhaust gas in a more efficient part of the pistons up-stroke as well as reduce pumping losses. We're also barring more exhaust gas from being present when the intake valve opens. (your EGR effect) We got rid of it earlier.

I don't have a horse in this race. I bought the cams. Just sayin. Narrower LSA and more overlap is the wrong direction for a supercharged engine.

I'm betting that going the other way (advancing) makes more power under boost and that retarding them would make more power N/A. ​

Here's Kelford's strategy:


Wish I'd had this calculator yesterday.

Exhaust cams advanced:


Retarded:

 

Interesting.
I wonder what their n/a specs are.
I'll have to do more research on this when I have time.

 

one word. yes, id buy

 

and for liquid #s my inercooler intake temps are down a bunch from glycol. my mirror temp for ref. usually incoming intercooler fluiid is 12-15* above ambiente. with distilled and redline i average 8*difference. its worth swapping.

 

So who is going to be first and try this theory out?

 

Definitely time for a refresh.. i was considering buying a motor and swapping it out roadkill style while were there. Is a motor swap too ambitious for this event?

Truck is catless currently as it's only driven on dirt roads in Mexico

Thanks for the offer!! I was just looking at possibly getting a nst alt pulley and it was a used one, so i wasnt too sure which one i needed

 

Provided on space, tools, and whatnot id say it's doable. @Torspd and I have done engine swaps in a weekend before.

 

Has anyone wired in the intercooler pump a different way from the stock magnuson way yet? I flashed a truck yesterday and unhooked the intercooler pump from the fuse so it wasn't pulling power away from the ecu. I hooked it back up but it wasn't getting a good connection and wasn't running on my first test drive. I would like to find a better solution so this does not happen again.

 

You are running water and water wetter?

Is there a risk of rust or corrosion forming inside the IC system?

I'd be interested in experimenting with the setup, but I want to make sure that I keep the internals corrosion and/ or rust free.

If what I'm understanding is right here, you are suggesting installing cam gears or different grind camshafts.

I'm definitely all for mods but when it comes to experimenting with the cams and gears on my own I definitely am not the one who is a good test subject.

That being said, things would be WAY different if the truck was my side truck, as it would no longer have to task for my DD commitments and I would likely be volunteer gerbil for things. Hahaha.

When I get back home from my military commitments I am going to tap into my dad's brain about running this intercooler pump off a relay. I already have a general idea of how to do it, my thing is just executing the plan at this point, but I definitely already have a relay in hand ready for the mod.

I am still pissed off about my intercooler situation from the other day. Things are working okay for now but that I can't believe a company as big as Magnuson would provide such a band aid like the one they created for our intercooler setup to energize such a critical item.

 

Running it off a relay under its own dedicated circuit is very easy. I am using a slot on my RTMR. It is triggered off ignition power.

 

I've never done a swap before, but ive wrenched on this 4 cyl quite a bit, so i think it's doable as well. It'd make me feel more comfortable tackling something like this knowing there are lots of smart folks around for when i inevitably screw something up. I am gonna start trying to get everything together

 

The hardest part of that swap, is getting the transmission unbolted from the block, and pulled back. Doing a clutch job on my friend's, was quite the lengthy process. And I'm no slouch for speed. Yours also has a s/c to contend with. Keeping that vehicle in a location where you don't have to move it for extra days, is safer than at the event.

I can knock out my own engine swap, in a day. Not started. With only one leg. Literally. I've done it enough times to simplify and refine the process. Too bad that my original engine wasn't a 2tr....

To be honest, stating that saddens me, as I'd really like to help. Honestly. That is up to @Roostfactor more than anyone.

 

What do we have here?

 

No need to upgrade. Looks good to me.

 

Water wetter or royal purple ice are corrosion resist additives. And yes it’s a fact water dissipates heat far better than coolant ever could.

Im suggesting someone try 3 degrees advance on the ECGs.

 

Trying to feed my boost line through the main passenger. Did you guys that did it here manage to feed it through the boot or feed it a different way?

 

I did mine through the little hole above it. Just depends on how firm your hose is.

 

I was debating that one. I may swap and do that. I can’t see a way through the main without cutting the rubber cover. I’d rather cut the small one

 

I agree, it's definitely up to John, and it might be pushing it as far as time goes.. If the trans is the worst part though, i think were in like flint. ive had to drop that trans about 7 times now and i can have it out of the truck in 30 minutes

Even still, there is a lot that would have to fall into place before this could happen.. but i may start getting this together just in case. I am gonna have to address this sooner rather than later regardless