Official Tennessee Thread

Welcome to the spenders club.

 

Hi everyone, yeah unfortunately I'm pretty used to spending coming from a Jeep, Just Empty Every Pocket

 

Anyone know the cheapest place to get 5100 and rear aal installed in Knoxville? Might be able to do it myself. I’ve watched the videos but never done anything like that myself

 

This seems to be the most important question when it comes to a locker .... Does it work? If the answer is anything other than something resembling "Yes, every time" then you got the wrong locker. I happened to pick out the right one. When I push the button it locks. When I push the button again, it unlocks. There's really nothing else for me to need to say but I'll give more input ....

A pre assembled 3rd from ECGS showed up with a 2 wire pigtail sticking out 6" from the case. In the box was a wiring harness, relay, fuse and switch with instructions on what to take to your battery and what to land on your switch. Its a very simple electrical circuit, just like hooking a up ceiling mounted light to a wall switch in your house. When you apply power by turning on the switch, it turns on the light and vice versa. The locker switches on and off instantly. When we went to Harlen, I was playing with driving through rock fields and anytime I was going straight, I engaged the locker then when I needed to turn i disengaged the locker. Numerous times I got stuck and had to work my way out of things and used this very advanced driving technique of flipping the locker switch every 10 seconds when transitioning between foward and backwards motions and straight or turning motions. I was trying to get the locker to show me a point at which it wouldn't operate properly but I didn't succeed.

In conclusion, when you apply +12v to it, it locks. When you take that voltage away, it unlocks. You can do this as many times and as often as you want with instant results everytime. I can't speak for the longevity of it as I've only been on 2 trips with it so far (1 being LBL which doesn't count for needing a front locker) but being that there's an electrical component that operates it, that component will eventually fail. Based on my knowledge in the subject, numerous factors including: somewhat limited frequency of use, how well sealed the unit is and an overall lack of excess heat generated around it (I don't race my truck or do desert runs) I would imagine it will last me beyond the life of the rest of the diff.

I'd recommend it for numerous factors that have nothing to do with the Harrop locker itself but with its competition ..... you know who you are ..... but as far as recommending it solely based on its function and performance thus far, I can't suggest spending similar money for anything different as it will only be a degrade.

 

I like maybes ....

 

Thanks Gid, appreciate the feedback. I've been looking at this option for a while but it's always good to get the perspective of an actual user in the same geographic area.

Eventually, I'll have ECGS send out the prebuilt 3rds. Seems like the best way to go, have the pros do the setup and "just" swap things out. I'll land the electrics on a switchpro, so even a simpler circuit than you had!

Thanks again for the detailed feedback, sounds like exactly what I wanted and expected. I have 0 interest in going with the other options....

 

Thats a great review. I have heard positive things on the FJ forums also. Not a lot of choices for elockers for the front, glad there is a good one to chose from..

 

Welcome sir. I also had zero interest in the other option. A short discussion with ALL the guys we wheel with on "the other option" and its easy to decide "eh, I'll just go no front locker instead". Haha I took a small gamble on picking a locker without much internet user review and zero in person review but trusted in the simplicity of the design. It was a simple decision for me. If the locker doesn't work when I want it to then why tha fuck do I have it? That thought alone drove me away from another locker more so than this one drew me in. And for the record, I have no problem saying the other locker (although it should be obvious) but its faults aren't relevant to a review on the Harrop so I opted to speak solely about it.

Haha yeah I thought of writing a very simplistic review as I really feel the only thing I need to say is "it locks when you push the ON button and unlocks when you push the OFF button" because THE problem with its competition is you can't say that. Its a "drop the mic, shows over, get your shit and get tha fuck out" statement.

 

Only issue I have had with my front arb is i had to much slack in the line and it melted creating a leak, and the time I forgot to hook it up haha. Now the rear arb is worthless! The only thing I wish my arb did was switch off immediately like your harrop for turning purpose but I have since remedied my steering so I can now turn with 5psi and locked!!!!

But @rdpoe if I was in the marked for buying now the harrop is the way I would go. It's almost the same price (arb requires air supply).

 

Pretty much anywhere here is going to price gouge the hell out of you. Just do it yourself and save the coin and earn the experience. Myself, @Aardvark13 and a few others are all local so if you get stuck one of us surely can help. I’m installing new leafs, and new UCAs this coming weekend and then doing my gears tomorrow. You can do it just take your time and take pictures of how everything was before and came apart so you can put it back in later.

 

I appreciate that. I think I’ll do it myself most likely. Toyota Knoxville doesn’t do “lifts” and if they do it costs 875. Wild. But good to know I have someone local I can ask for help.

What do you suggest about getting the shock out of the coil with no spring compressor? The floor jack method?

 

Yep. That’s what I’ve done for all mine, 5100’s, ome 90000, new ome 9somethings and as Kurt and I we’re talking probably new fox’s or Kings here soon. Aal is super easy as well all you need is a good floor jack some jack stands and two good c Clamps. And possibly a longer center pin but your aal should come with one.

 

Yeah I feel pretty good about read 5100 and AAL. Floor jack method should work too I’ll just follow a good video.

im going to be doing this but I don’t have larger tires yet than stock. How is that going to look at stock tires in your opinion

 

your tires may look a little skinnier, but we arent talking a six inch lift here so you will still look good. The 5100s are a good choice, and i think you will be happy when its all done.

I have never tried using a floor jack, but i can say the Advanced Auto in South Knox has all new kits of rental tools, which leads me to believe all the local branches may have upgraded. Everything i have rented this year has been either brand new or maybe used once. So far they have been professional quality tools, so if you decide the floor jack wont work for some reason, i would bet the spring compressors they rent are probably decemt quality, higher than in the past. That will probably be the toughest part of the job, everything else will be relatively easy. Even the springs aren't hard, but you have to take your time. You can find all the torque specs here on TW, so if you dont have a torque wrench i would say its a good investment if nothing else, for your piece of mind.

Good luck! We are here for you.

 

ARB:

 

Ohhh so prettay....... front is done and after I get some food in me going to start on the rear.

 

Got your spartan locker loving ass out of here!

 

I have come to learn this man wastes no time...

 

In before the other locker apologists say that all the problems with the other lockers are because they are installed wrong.