Norcal Spotted and BS Thread

After Buffalo Chips, we went to Lake Almanor, The Peninsula, and are now back home.

 

How’d it tow?

 

Actually petty well. The trailer is empty with only the spare and some diamond-plate cabinets, so it's pretty light right now. I'll get some weight in it soon.

 

When people talk about riding like sh!t I think it's mostly tire rating not size. Most bigger tires are rated for more weight/off road stress so they are Load E. I went pizza cutters although they aren't actually that skinny and despite taller size they ride like stock. Also the 17's fit GX470 brakes under them that the 16's wouldn't.

I went Ray 10 17's w/DISCOVERER AT3 4S - 255/75R17 and they ride great but I wanted to go up to the Pros at 255/80\17 but they were more expensive, wouldn't fit in spare spot easily, and were Load E rated so the weighed a lot more per tire.

Lots ot tire threads here but if you're looking to keep ride normal I'd suggest avoiding Load E unless you really need it.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tires-tires-tires-tires.38333/

 

3rd gen guys. If we rip an abs wire... what fuse do you pull to be able to drive?

 

You installing your lift?

 

yeah all done.

Except

 

You should be able to drive without it till you get the new wire or fix this one. It will just throw the ABS/traction lights on and you ABS won't work. It will lock up the wheel (side with messed up wire) at first, but once you pass 20 MPH speed and use the brakes couple of times, it will work fine.

 

sounds good thanks!

 

Happy Birthday @tyfoon11 !

 

Made some steps for my camper.
https://youtu.be/Y1EGGtfK5K0

 

Just got home. Driving was a little funky but it made it fine. Definitely needs an alignment.

 

@siznarf

 

So went to start the 4Runner this morning and got nothing. Fairly certain it’s the starter but I want to cover all my bases before diving into the rebuild of it.
When I turn the key, I get nothing. No engine cranking at all. I can hear the fuel pump going.
Checked my grounds and all seems good there.
I have 12.8 volts in the battery so fairly certain it’s not a jumping issue.
I’m getting no cranking at all so fairly certain it’s not the alternator. Plus during my drive yesterday, I didn’t have low voltage.
I don’t drive the 4Runner often but I did drive it some yesterday. I started it maybe 8-10 times throughout the day and all was well. I did have one long start and I sort of attributed that to my battery since my fridge was plugged in. Not sure if that was an early sign from the starter or what.

I tried the hammer trick and got nothing. I might run a jumper cable directly to the starter to confirm the connection there is good.

I also rebuilt my OEM starter in January 2017 so it seems a bit soon for it to be the starter

Any thoughts?

 

With a meter connected to the battery, what’s the voltage read when you turn the key and try to start? Do the instrument lights dim when you turn the key? What is the voltage at the starter? What about fuses?

 

Fuses look good.
12.72 volts at the starter
No dimming of lights

 

Check the brake pedal linkage. There should be some sort of switch that must be engaged to start. I’ve seen those loosen up over time and cause non—starts

some of us with upgraded fuel pumps have seen Slow or non-starts probably due to fuel siphoning out of lines. I’ve added a check valve to my setup that should help.

 

I tried starting in neutral to sort of rule this out and got nothing. I also have no warning lights on the dash (check engine, oil temp, etc.) and no position switches (PRND2L)

 

Found out my starter control circuit wire got chewed up on the alternator pulley on what must’ve been my drive home last night.
Made that wire whole again and can confirm I have power there. 4Runner still won’t start and dash indicator lights won’t turn on so I’m guessing that wire getting cut messed something else up

 

40A AM1 blew