Colorado Trading Post

Oh so you don't even have to take off the LCA?

I can't tell if this is the sleeve and the bolt or just the bolt, says camber assembly: https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem...assis/front_axle_arm_steering_knuckle,,48198C

 

Yeah the pictures online are all the same.. but part numbers are different. Id give your local dealer a call or pay a visit to get the right part number.

Once you cut it out then you will have to finesse the new one in so you may have to loosen both cam bolts so mark their position beforehand. Afterwards you will need an alignment but the marks can give you a rough placement position.

 

This is making me not want to go back to that shop that wanted to charge $300 on top of the $130 alignment minus a $20 coupon i got in the mail...

 

Call around and ask for a specific job now that you know what it will need. I bet that isn't far off from most and may be a bit cheaper as most will try to replace/build the entire arm and hardware....

 

haha yeah its a 2 beer job with good blades and probably $10 for the oem bolt

 

+1 for A&A though I went to the one in Littleton across from Groove Toyota. Also good to know is that Leer had their plant shut down for weeks during the pandemic and they are at a 5-6 week lead time. You could also hunt craigslist and facebook marketplace. I couldn't find cement and ended up going with a black one that needs some love but works well and I have had a few compliments on the color already.

 

Depends on how bad the cams are. On @Coop68 ’s truck we cut all 4 off.

I’ve gotten the ball joint swap and installing whitelines down. Only problem left to solve is how to easily get the pills bushing out.

 

SOLD

OEM rear bumper/hitch off a 2014 TRD OR. Free to a good home. Good condition. Located in the Woodland Park area but willing to meet.

 

he is just talking about a single cam bolt sleeve. Not the tabs or replacing bushings. Burning out bushings is a pita and replacing lbj without a press is nearly impossible.

 

I went with Scotty’s Truck Toppers and am happy with the ARE I got. One thing to note - sales taxes are a little lower where he is, which can add a good bit to the cost of a topper.

 

Not mine, good deal on TRD fakelocks w/ tires - https://denver.craigslist.org/wto/d/aurora-toyota-tacoma-trd-wheels-tires/7126433381.html

 

That's a really good deal. I just bought some graphite ones a couple of months ago and I'm looking for a used single for a spare don't care what color as long as it's in decent shape.

 

Yep, I have the bronze. I would buy one of those from you if you got the set.

 

Shop said they couldn't get the camber on both LCA's - assuming it's just the sleeve and bushings are ok. There's a guy in CA from the total chaos LCA group buy thread that might send me his LCA's for cost of shipping. Swapping LCA's might be easier than cutting the sleeves out and give me bushings and a ball joint with 40k less than what's on there now...

 

The fill kit with all hardware is approx $130 iirc from dealer

 

Getting ready to move/cleaning out my shed. Make an offer, I'd like to get rid of everything.
Parts are off of a 17' and 18' DCSB
Located in Fountain, CO

 

We’re they taken off or cut off?
Once that sleeve is rusted/cut it’s not gonna come out of the bushings.

 

My cam bolts are still seized, probably in the same orientation they were from the factory. The donor LCA has free cam bolts.

The damn OEM bushings are $60 a piece so it would make sense to swap in a donor LCA with good cam bolts + bushings.

 

You can buy cam bolts separately

 

sometimes you can beat the sleeve out pen lub and a better angle and bfh from above. But if you are replacing the bushings then you would go polys not OEM.

However, swapping LCAs are the easiest option but you will still have to cut the sleeve out.


Edit: we’ve beat the dead horse so hopefully by now you get the full picture. Lets us know when you get it resolved.