Anything welding

Will we see some threads coming out soon

 

Is that a Clausing? My son has a sweet Clausing Mill in his shop.

 

this is the best I have so far. A copy of This Old Tony’s tap handle. I’ve tweaked it a little since this pic, and it works pretty well.

 

says clausing/colchester on the tag. So yes? My best guess is a master mk.1.5 For reference here’s the 4 jaw that comes with it on the bed of my South Bend 8”

 

Is it a 14” chip saw using a fiber blade? If so, they’re known to bend a bit and not make straight cuts on box and pipe material. There are other more expensive tools that use a metal blade but they’re around 4-5 hundred bucks. I use a 10” miter chop saw and put 10” fiber discs on it. I haven’t had an issue with the blade wondering, it makes straight cuts since it has a smaller blade. I can cut 3x3 box or 3” tubing easy.

 

I have the same issue. I want to build another cart soon too. I have a spare 6 drawer rollaway that I plan to build into a welding cart.

 

Just don’t wait until after June 30. That’s when the coupon I used expires and price jumps $150

 

I swapped the blade and that got it better, but still slightly off. So I just started to flip the workpiece 3/4 through the cut and it comes out a lot better. Then, I just started trying to level them off with the grinder. It will do. Maybe someday I’ll upgrade. Thanks for the replies guys.

 

I had a dewalt abrasive cut-off which i regretted buying since the day I bought it 10 years ago. Smelly. Sparky. Loud. Can't be good to breathe all that crap...worst of all, SLOW. I finally bought a cold saw (also a dewalt) and a month later splurged on the saundersmachineworks table for it. Out of the box it was hard to get really square as the dewalt table is formed and pretty wonky. Even with the nice table, the blade does wander a bit, but overall it *now* cuts square.

 

So cool. I was just lamenting the sad state of my little lathe today. Slowly trying to clean it back up, re-tool it.

 

Maybe the 14” saws just allow too much room for the blade to move. My 10” chop saw only doesn’t do great cuts if I tilt the saw for a angled cut instead of swiveling it.

Ive wondered about how true a band saw cuts, have you had any experience with them?

 

Every abrasive saw I have owned or used that wasn’t an industrial saw at a metal supply has had blade deflection. I have a band saw now that cuts as close to perfect as the eye can see using a starrett square. The band saw is a pos. But the nice thing with bandsaws is most are very adjustable so depending on how picky you are and how well you understand the adjustments it’s very easy to get most band saws cutting very straight. How good the saw is will play a factor into how often you need to adjust it. Prior to the bandsaw I currently have I had the cheap harbor freight bandsaw. It took a little longer to get it dialed in but it worked very well, just had to be trued a little more often. I was gonna keep it but the guys at the old shop were so used to using it I left it

 

I think you're getting disk flex. What diameter are these cutting blades? 10"?
Zim

 

Right now I’m using a 14” blade. Seems kind of overkill considering I don’t need to cut anything bigger than 2x3 at the moment. I’m open to mounting a smaller cutting wheel on it, sounds like an interesting test

 

I have a similar issue with my Evo cold cut too. I was going to look to see if it had adjustability to tune it because I feel it only just started.

 

Yeah I think that's what is happening. There is 7" of blade doing the cutting of a 2" pc. of tubing. If it were mine, I would use it to rough cut material with the idea that you're going to dress the cut with a grinder or whatever. Like some folks have said here, band saws are much more accurate than a cutting wheel of any size.
I routinely cut 2-3 degrees to fit tube. It's that good, and it's harbor fright.
Zim

 

I wish i had room for a bandsaw in my shop! In the mean time i'm going to also try a 10" carbide blade...

 

Managed to snag some locking swivel casters from work for free and am picking up steel this weekend for a table. It’ll be 28”x96” since that’s all my garage can support. 1/4” top and 2”x1/8” square legs. It’ll be a massive upgrade from what I already have and 1/4” is plenty fine for my hobby needs. I'm buying my steel through my buddy who owns fab shop, and it'll only cost me ~$170 for all of it. Half sheet of 1/4" and 28.5' of square tube.

 

A few more

 

This will be a first of this type of project for me. I’m welding axle trusses and a track bar bracket to my JKU front axle. I’ve welded on axle tubes before but never into cast iron. I’ll preheat the diff housing with a torch to ~400 degrees and buzz the trusses on. Should be a big improvement in strength.

This is where I’m at now, will weld tomorrow.



edit, I know... not a Toyota but the Jeep forums are not super active and this is a good place for welding goodies.