ToyTec AALs

Hey guys! I’m installing Bilstein 5100s on my 2018 SR5 Tacoma along with ToyTec AALs in the rear. I’ve been reading a lot about wether or not I need degree shims, carrier bearing drop kit, longer U bolts, etc. Some say they needed it, some say they were fine without. Just want some more takes on the matter, thanks for the help.

 

Install and see how it drives.

On my 2020 with a 1.5" AAL, its smooth as glass with no shims or spacers of any type.
My 2018 had vibes on acceleration with a 1" block.

 

What block did you have when you noticed the vibrations?

 

A 1 inch taper block from Amazon. I believe the brand was "Heavy Metal Suspensions".

 

You end up fixing the vibes on the 2018? Or just rolled with it?

 

It was wrecked before I fixed the issue.

 

That’s one way to do it lol! What AAL do you run currently on the 2020?

 

I have the Icon AAL. If I did it again, I would go with the Headstrong AAL as to avoid cutting anything.

 

Thanks for the info

 

What exactly did you have to cut? And what’s your setup look like

 

The Icon kit requires the outermost spring retainer to be cut off and the pin ground down to fit the new leaves. The new Headstrong kit does not require this step.

 

Looks good! You’re running 5100’s?

 

No, 6112s on the 5th setting and 5160s with the AAL.

 

I added the shim because you can see the driveshaft angles will be off. There is no downside to adding a 1.5-3* shim, there is even one on the stock pack. 2.5* looks right in mine after lift. If you have to do it later is a lot more of a pain to drop the leaf enough to get it in. I don't suggest the open/slotted kind. I have seen them break and drop out leaving the leaf loose. The 2.5* worked and was thin enough that the pin fit all the way through correctly, so I didn't need a pin spacer. UCAs are the same idea. I thought I would see if I could get away with not changing them. Alignment specs are way off after lift. I have not seen anyone that runs 2"+ lift and has good alignment specs on stock UCA. Now I am going to take it back apart and add them and pay for another alignment. It feels much more "twitchy" and wants to follow lines in the road after lift with the same tires. I also have 6112s on 5/6 and 5160s in rear with Dakar pack. Shims were like $20 for billet aluminium. You will need longer U bolts. I got 8.5" and had room to cut some off. I did not use a carrier bearing drop bracket as my angles are good now. I did not use a diff drop and do not plan to, CV angles are fine. I did not use a sway drop bracket, but it is close to my coils now and I lose about an inch of droop with the bar in, so it is probably coming out when I add my UCAs. I would add the ECGS bushing while in there too, but that's me. Do it once right and don't worry about it again. It's no fun taking it back apart to fix and adjust things later.

 

Thanks for the all that info, that really helps. What UCAs you going with?

 

SPC Light Racing. I like and want the JBA, but from what I understand they will hit my tires on my stock rims.