Any woodworkers?

OOW OW OW! those look like the O Cutters we use on a fire or accident scene! And dude they could do some damage ouch!

 

When it initially happened I didn't realize it happened do fast. But when I did the pain started to hit but was not real bad more just throbbing sore and tingly. But at the hospital they put this rubber ring thing on it to cut off blood flow and that's when the real pain hit.

 

The difference is these close extremely fast, and are sharp.

I'd say cycle time is about 1/2 second.

I've always heard most table saw injuries come from people getting comfortable with them.

 

If anybody is interested I started a build thread for my slo-mo workshop build

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...damn-shop-already-build.666783/#post-23384251

 

Finally getting around to fixing the area in front of my shop. Elevating and leveling the ground to make a patio area so I can rip full plywood sheets.

 

Started another flip cart for my jointer. I ran out of wood for a drawer face so I got a crazy idea, some nice looking scraps and a kreg jig.

 

Fucking around with steps. I have no idea what I’m doing, but hopefully it doesn’t collapse on me one day I’m ripping plywood.

 

7 and 1/2 inches is about right for a comfortable distance to step. I can't quite tell what your plan is from the picture. Are you building steps into a structure? Or is that a retaining wall? Here is a picture of a couple steps I built at my parents place. Keep in mind, my parents are 81 and 83 so I deliberately built steps that were much wider than absolutely necessary. Just make sure those steps cannot move if someone steps on the edge of them. I went to pressure treated wood for the step portion for that reason. I was limited to what my father had on hand or I would have made the steps longer and tied them in more to keep them more solid but I didn't quite have the length I needed so I made do with what I had.

 

Building code (not that you're necessarily following it) limits the height of risers to 7" and the minimum depth of the tread is 11". Anything more or less becomes uncomfortable. I'd also say from looking at your photo, try to bury the back of the tread in the riser of the next step. You need some kind of counterweight on the back there so the whole thing doesn't tip if someone just steps on the very edge.

 

@ACEkraut @GunBunny12 The first step should be right at about 7.5" to the top, and the second one might be 8".

My backyard has pretty much no level ground on it and it all slopes toward the house. If you look at the base of the shop you'll see where the high part of the yard is, and I had to use solid block to raise up two of the skids to get it level. That table I made is a good six inches higher on one side to make the surface level. The goal here is to take this highest part of the yard and raise it up a bit and more importantly make it level so I have a place I can work with full sheets of plywood, etc. As a bonus, it will also be a rec patio with chairs and a fire pit when I don't need it for that. So the weight behind the wall is going to be minimal, but I tried to build to professional instruction. Bury the first row on packed base, level in every direction, packed base behind with drainage rock, etc. I'm only aiming for about 150 sqft, and this area doesn't get a ton of rain so I passed on drainage behind the wall.

The lips of the pavers only extend about .5"-1" over the lower block, and as I said I'm just messing around with form at the moment. The pavers will be construction adhesive glued to the blocks below, and maybe burying the back edge under might be a good idea. That top one was just sitting there so I could judge the rise and run and see if it was comfortable. It's not set yet because I have gaps at the corners in the steps of the wall, and I wasn't real pleased with that. Once this rainy week passes I'm going to see if I can correct that and get the steps to be secure and gap free. I'd like a hand truck to be able to traverse those steps, so putting the lips more flush with the bricks below might be how I help that.

Eventually the right side there will be slightly extended and take some sort of turn to the rear once the old shop comes down (you can just see the ramp). I am also trying to decide if I like it with that top row of brick or to take it off. That would be the max height (and max rated height for the bricks).

 

So if I understand correctly, when you finish you should have just two steps? If that is the case, you might consider making the bottom step deeper by bumping out in front of the retaining wall just the step another row of blocks with the capstone on top. That will make that step much safer and more comfortable to use if you are going to potentially be using a hand truck on it to bring up materials. Reference the pic below. In the pic below it would be the decking wood only part that sticks out from the retaining wall.

 

With the top level being between 20-24" off the ground, I'm aiming for step, step, top. It will all depend on how well I can anchor the blocks.

 

Got it. When using a hand truck it is helpful to be able to stand on the landing, but not absolutely necessary.

 

Finally found a good use for a 10 round Glock magazine.

 

Which drawer did you mount the pistol on ?

That’s awesome

 

I do have an old Taurus I hate. Hmmmm....

 

W...T...F...

 

So, this is basically what one side of my shop looks like now.


Thinking about scrapping the sturdy but inefficient lathe stand for another systainer cabinet and the lathe going on top. I hardly use it, but am trying to keep it around if at all possible - even if that means using a stool to turn the very occasional thing. I discovered the sander and my portable compressor fit in systainer spots, so I'd gain between 6-8 spots and have a dedicated place for the sander, the compressor, and eventually a turbine.

And if I can figure out how to do the planer/drum sander combo without making it a flip cart, I might just be in business.