Energy Suspension body mount bushing replacement on 1st gen double cab

I'd noticed my body mount bushings were worn out and needed replacing, so like many others, ordered the energy suspension bushings. I ordered part

$116 8.4107G Body Mount Set for Toyota

8.4107G, which many sites claimed was for all 2001-2004 tacomas. Turns out this isn't exactly the case. The rearmost (3rd) top bushing in this kit it too short for a double cab, which causes a misalignment and potential body to frame contact. I'm working to get the correct parts, but had to reinstall my OEM bushing until I can get them.

Stock vs OEM rearmost bushing (position 3). Over a 1/4" difference in height.



That out of the way, here's a quick write to hopefully make the job go smoother.

About a week before you start, spray all the bolts down the PB blaster. There's 6 bushing bolts, and 8 plate bolts (2 each on the middle and rear mounts). Doesn't hurt to wire brush the bolts while you're down there.

When you're ready, gather supplies. Besides standard hand tools, it really helps to have a impact, some crows feat or swivel head wrenches, and ratcheting wrenches. Don't forget to have a handful of 2x4s as well. You'll want some at least 4' long to get the leverage you need. Shorter ones are also handy for supporting the body.

Next, remove all the nuts on the body bushing bolts on the side your're going to replace first, and looses them as much as you're able on the other side. If you don't, it's unlikely you'll be able to move the body up high enough to remove the OEM bushing, especially on the middle mount. You may also want to loosen your steering column slip joints at this point. I didn't, and had to fight to get it re-aligned once I was done.



Position 1 bolts are at the radiator and are easily accessed without removing anything.
Position 2 requires the front door lower trim pieces to be removed and the carpet pulled back slightly. Remove the black cap, to access the bolt head.
Position 3 is behind the rear seats. Fold the seats down, the pull up the carpet. Remove the black cap, to access the bolt head. Note there are built in retainers, so you need to rotate the bolt before you can remove it.

Position 3 bolt showing retainers


You'll want to start replacing the bushing from front to back, doing one side then the other.

For position 1, you'll be able to get enough clearance to remove and replace the bushing using a pry bar. Install the new bushing and old bolt, but do not install the nut. You can't get clearance to remove the other bushings on that side with this one tight. I'd recommend pulling all the bolts, wire brushing them and then giving them a coat of anti-seize or grease. Some of mine had a fair bit of pitting developing.

Position 1 new bushing installed


For position 2, put a floor jack and some wood just forward of the bushing on the pinch weld. Raise the body using the jack enough to get a piece of wood in to use as a lever. Sliders make this way easier. Make sure to put some wood in to hold the body high enough above the frame. Do not rely on the jack and wood alone as it's extremely unstable.

Once you've raised the body enough you'll have access to the nuts/bolts on the bushing plate. These were the most difficult to remove, as there's very little clearance between the bolt head and body. Ratcheting wrenches are a huge plus here. Take the time to verify that the nuts on the bottom of the frame perch aren't welded on. I had some that were and some that weren't (or at least weren't anymore). If they are, remove the bolt from the top, if they're not, an impact on the bottom makes short work of them.

Once removed, you can slide the OEM bushing out. This takes an ton of room. Make sure to lift in small increments, taking the time to look for any stressed connectors between the frame and body, including the steering column. This is worst on the passenger side. Install the new bushing, and the install the bolt, but not the nut.

Position 3 is very similar to position 2, but slightly easier. These nuts were welded, so removal was from the top. Easy on the passenger side, but the gas tank really limits access on the drivers side. Again, ratcheting wrenches and low profile sockets are your friend here.

Use of floor jack and wood to raise body to access position 3 bushing.



After you've completed one side, lower the body and install the nuts so they're just on the threads. Do not tighten them too much. You can now remove the nuts of the other side and repeat the process.

With both sides complete, tighten everything down. Don't worry about the exact torque too much as there's a metal sleeve inside the bushing that prevents it from over-compressing. Re-install/connect any wires/steering shaft you had previously disconnected, and you'll all set.

EDIT:Fixed photos

 

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Great write up! Thank you for posting.

 

I had the same problem with my double cab, ended up stacking washers on top of the bushing until the height was correct. Recently installed a day star 1 in lift/ poly bushing combo with no probs like that

 

I ran into the same issue with the Energy Suspension body mount bushings several years ago. If you search the forums and read 100s of posts, you might find it. I went back and forth with Energy Suspension's engineers. In the end, they admitted they didn't have a complete kit for the first gen double cab. They ended up sending me a pair of the taller bushings from the regular/extended cab kit. They worked, but weren't.exactly the correct height. Since I have a 1" body lift, I contacted Roger Brown at 4crawler.com(he made the body lift kit for my truck) and he made new cab corner lift pucks that were taller than an inch to get the corners ba k to the correct height.

 

I know this is an old thread, but it's one Google kept taking me to when searching for double cab body mounts. They make them now.
Part# 8.4112

 

So potentially a dumb question, but do these affect ride or anything? I know poly bushings are stiffer and tend to squeak but I’ve only used this in suspension and steering. Any insight from someone who’s installed these? Do they have a kit for the bed or does that mount straight to the frame?

 

There's no noticable change in ride quality. Most replace with polyurethane due to price difference. I think oem is around $50 per bushing.

The bed is mounted directly to the frame, no isolation.

 

G is black and R is red. No difference.

I reused the old hardware.

 

So I went far too long on bad body mount bushings. I ordered the energy suspension bushings kit. Had no problem unscrewing position one and two on the drivers side… and then the third one.. hooo boy. It snapped off and now I’m wondering what are the next steps to remove this bolt. I’ve seen something saying it is welded on (52217B)?

I’d greatly appreciate any pointers on next steps. I am tempted to just cut off remaining threads to see if it turns. But I don’t want to dig myself a deeper hole if that’s a bad idea. From the top view you can see I got it off the tabs just a bit, using a hammer drill. Shouldn’t it just pound out? Don’t want to stress the frame any worse than it is already.