4.30 vs 4.88 on an auto with 34's

Thanks for the info! And great advise BTW on 4.30 vs 4.88s.

 

@SearArtist @Weirich I know it has been a few years now, but I am looking to do the 4.30 on AT regear and found lightly used R&P's from a MT TW member. Do you guys remember if the everything except the R&P's are the same in the diff? The parts diagrams show different inner/outer pinion bearings, carrier case, spacers, seals, everything being specific part numbers. Any info you guys can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

they will fit your truck, but I did a diff swap which was much cheaper than doing a full setup...unless you know what you are doing and can do it yourself (not for the DIYer), I would suggest going aftermarket.

if I were doing it again I would have saved up and got 4.88’s or 5.29’s instead.

 

[QUOTE="SearArtist, post:

if I were doing it again I would have saved up and got 4.88’s or 5.29’s instead.[/QUOTE]

Why do you say this now when you were pleased with the 4.30 gear earlier? Not trying to be a prick, just curious.

 

I have since added 1200lbs of armor to my truck and planning on going to 35’s soon. It was great when I was on 33’s and mostly all stock. Now, not so much.

my truck weights in at 5950lbs with driver.

 

That’s a very good reason.
Thanks.

 

Seems like you guys both had good results until you added plate bumpers and a lot more weight. I got a mostly stock truck that I may go from 32LTs to 33LTs with an aluminum skid plate and sliders with fill plates. When you guys did the 4.30 swap it sounded like it was pretty good for my needs; hilly highway commute, some towing under 4k lbs, some compensation for adding 15lbs of tire per corner over stock.

Thanks for your info. I might not be able to go thru with it cause none of the local off road shops will put used gears in and my Dad could help me (35 yrs exp.) but he's not a tech anymore and we don't have access to a lift.

 

I’d suggest 4.88’s based on what you stated your intended use is. It really wouldn’t be worth your time to swap to 4.30’s unless you are swapping differentials like I did.

 

Thanks for the input. At this point its looking like 4.88's would be easier to get done as well.

 

Although a lift would be easier you can do it without a lift. Some jackstands will be sufficient. I did ECGS swap in my driveway solo. An extra person would have been nice. Rear is fairly easy. The front requires more stuff to be removed.

 

If motivated enough I could more or less have my Dad there for support and do it in his driveway, but what took wind out of my sails was all the bearings, seals, and even the pinion carrier got different part numbers and there are different shims. I could order all the parts and return what I don't need but it all sounds like a pain for what these guys are saying isn't worth it.

 

if you want to make it easy get a complete diff/clam shell from ECGS and call it a day. Then all you need to do it pull the stock out swap and mail it back to them. Plus you get a warranty on the diff if along with it, along with front solid spacer instead of the crush sleeve. Depending what your doing you can even toss a locker in and they do all the gear setting.

 

That's not a bad idea. Sounds like a weekend project. Basically just swapping parts, seems like the ring and pinion is all aligned and everything already.