TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

This is correct. Except the only this that is needed is the bar that secured the rear window....2nd gen has a straight bar and the 3rd gen uses a curved bar. The straight bar and the appropriate attachments to secure it.

 

Already found a spot that said walk in with the Y pipe off the truck with cash/no receipt and they will do it. they would drill/clean, provide the bung and weld for $60

 

For all they know, it is for an off road vehicle.

 

Or wall art

 

thats correct. it was mating the y-pipe with all the rest of the system that i needed. that was the no go.

 

I went ahead and pulled the trigger at last on some Ruthenium plugs as per @Kelvin 's suggestion long ago and @BillDaCat8 's recent install of them due to his finding of them at Napa auto parts (apparently these guys got the serious go fast stuff with the RPM belts, Ruthenium plugs and what have you). Went ahead and got started throwing them on today at about 8:15 am and came home at about 9:15am... Whoa.. night and day difference. These are not like your traditional Iridiums.. they smoothened out the engine a lot and spark knock is like 1000% nonexistent now. Like entirely. There's even been a small bump up in power. At least butt Dyno confirms it.

Look at these garbages.. lol. This is after some 5 months of install in my engine mind you.





Also, here is the set of tools needed to pull this job off without pulling the blower.. a short 10, a short 12 and two 3/8 swivels.

 

My truck runs amazingly better. But, I'm still not positive that it just feels that way because my old plugs were so bad.

Which of the Ruthenium's did you do? I did the 95125's with the PSPE tip and the weird ceramic end.

 

Part number for the new plugs? I'm game...

 

Mine had less than 8,000 miles on them for sure. There is no way they could had been that bad.

The PSPE square end tip is supposed to offer a much more volatile flame kernal over the Iridiums due to the increase in real estate available. Theoretically they should increase our fuel economy due to the more complete burn better ignitability factor. Due to these theoretics, they should last us longer as well before replacement is required.

They almost remind me of a higher tech version of side gapped plugs because while the indicated gap is .039" the square end closes that gap a little more while the actual ground strap is higher up above the the square tip.

95125 NGK

 

So hopefully this weekend i will finally get around to changing my plugs, putting in cam gears and changing the supercharger coupler thing and fluid. Anything i should be aware of or should do while i'm there?

Also, do i have to disconnect the cooling lines to pull the blower?

 

No, just move the lid off to this side.

You got quite a project upcoming there!

 

Did u guys need to gap these at all? Gap was consistent plug to plug?

 

yah I am just adding it for viewing purposes while campaign in my remote garage.. but Have to pick up on his its a cash only walk in no receipt deal. Either way works for me. It would cost me $40 or so to ship another no weld and it is better anyway. (minus getting new gasksets)

 

make sure to get the s/c drivers side bracket bolts most of the way in before tightening the manifold bolts all the way.

 

No gapping needed

 

def a good tip Those are a pain to adjust if your tighten it down. Not the end of the world but makes it easier.

 

I eyeballed each one carefully. They were consistent between all six. I left the gap alone though. Specs say they come gapped to 1mm.

 

Should be easy compared to the roll cage, rewrap, full sound system and long travel also in the works.

 

Exactly. There reaches a certain point where you have done this crap so many times and know what bad vs good looks like that you can literally eyeball the stuff and know immediately if it's off or not.

 

Same thing with ikh-22 plug gap? Leave it as is?