Replace OEM JBL sub and add an amp?

Thanks. By adapters I meant the PAC AmpPro or iDatalink Maestro.

 

When running a new amp using the PAC wiring harness, are resistors required to maintain the appropriate load on the factory JBL amp?

 

not that we've seen in 2019 and older, or in any other JBL I know of. I have not worked on the 2020 so I won't say for sure, but we didn't in older models

 

Just an update... I just got off the phone with iDatalink Tech support. They said that the Maestro DRS-1 and AR both replace that factory amp and retain all factory features of the vehicle. *Note the AR unit is only for use with select amps. So the DRS-1 is the piece that we would want to replace the factory amp and give us RCA out puts for aftermarket amps.
I am going to go this route. I will try and update on my progress in case anyone is interested in using the DRS-1 also...

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BA9YswhWQRw
Thought you might find this video interesting. He compares the differences between using the AmpPro and Maestro AR to integrate into the stock system. Good luck with whatever route you choose

 

Thank you.
I installed all interior speakers, Imagine Dynamics. I left the factory amp in to run them until I am ready to install the DSR-1 and the amps. I did not install the tweeters yet because the factory amp would probably blow them. So the next stage is the interior amp and the DSR-1 and sub amp. The Sub box won't be ready for about a month.

 

Noob here, sorry to hijack but anyone know what the outcome would be if I were to replace the head unit in my 2018 but retain all other JBL equipment? Any recommendations on what head to use? The Bluetooth quirks on this head unit are just not worth it, it keeps pulling focus from one phone to another and splitting audio vs phone connections, totally infuriating to the point that if I find a working replacement solution I’m going to torture the stock head unit with various destruction methods lol. I’d rather not have to replace everything but if I have to just to get rid of this POS I’ll go to an audio pro.

Edit: Looking at Crutchfield it would seem as though if I install an iDatalink Maestro RR interface that they recommend to be able to install a new head unit in (was looking at a Kenwood w/ Carplay & Android Auto) the module would not be compatible with Carplay/AA. Hmmm . . perhaps I should just pay someone to rip everything out and install clean if I want decent sound and Carplay/AA with steering wheel control and backup camera.

 

I received both the PAC Amp Pro + PAC Wiring Harness and am prepping for install (keeping in place the factory JBL head unit and speaker wiring). Two questions you may be able to help with (thank you in advance):

1. If I install the PAC Amp Pro (to the factory head unit) + PAC Harness (to my factory wiring harness in the rear), along with amplifiers to power all 6 speakers + the sub, is it possible to completely remove the factory JBL amplifier? Does the amp do anything else in the truck?
2. Assuming "yes" for #1, if I remove the amp, does the remaining speaker wiring in the truck have a crossover (or capacitor or whatever) built into it for the front door / dash speakers, or is that all built into the factory JBL amp (and would be eliminated once I remove it)?

 

1. the JBL amp must remain connected when keeping the factory radio.
2. the factory speaker wiring does not have any crossovers. It is all done in the factory amp. This is good though because your new amp and speakers will have these and you want to use those anyway, not the JBL.

check out this thread @badfish_55 did showing how he relocated the JBL amp.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-jbl-subwoofer-upgrade.572040/

 

@destin_meeks - In looking at the PAC APH-TY04 diagram, its really unclear as to which wires go to which speakers. Further, the diagram implies there are 9 speakers in addition to the subwoofer. I am trying to figure out which ones aren't used. Do you by chance know which colors on the harness are used for which speakers in a 3rd Gen JBL-equipped Taco? Diagram I am referencing is here: https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=1659

 

This particular harness is used in several Toyota vehicles, most of which have more speakers than the Tacoma. Once you have the JBL amp exposed, you’ll see that many of the pin locations aren’t used in your configuration. Feel free to de-pin the unused wires if you want to clean things up.

JBL diagram can be found back on post 60

 

If I understand this correctly, I can use the

$38 APH-TY04 Speaker Connection Harness

APH-TY04 harness along with a new HU and Maestro to bypass the in and out of the JBL amp?

 

correct

 

Thank you sir!

 

So what was the end result. Skimmed through the whole thread.

List of parts?

 

The end result for most with JBL is complete gut.
I finalized with kickers in the doors, kicker tweeters and kicker 8” sub powered by 2 Rockford Fosgate amps.

If you’re after SQ then don’t bother with anything stock JBL.

Mine is loud as fuck if I’m in the mood and that little 8” kicker hits pretty hard for its size.

 

I have a new open box

$329 PAC AP4 TY12 Amppro 4 Amp Interface (Select 2012-2018 Toyota(R) & Lexus(R) Vehicles with Jbl(R) or Premium Amplified Sound Systems), 1 Pack

PAC AP4 TY12 I’ll sell for cheap if anyone is interested. Doesn’t work with the new 2020 JBL head unit, but works with the others. PM me.

 

Has anyone just replaced the factory JBL door speakers? If so worth it? And brand?
Kicker plug and play? Infinity, other?

 

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