3.4L supercharger

The sensor and bung comes with the guage. I personally would wait so you know everything matches up and you get the correct position with everything back together with the truck in that area

 

where does the bung go exactly? Easy section of exhaust to remove? Speaking of exhaust, need to grab a muffler to weld in to stock pipe. What are you running sir?

PS, your truck is beautiful, kind sir. I’ve watched the YouTube a few times. Well done my friend.

 

I had an 01 with 30k and installed the supercharger, ran it till 120k, sold the truck, kept the SC and put it on my 04 and ran it for 200k with no issues, side note, upgrade the injectors and fuel pump (I didn't) will make it better with the SC.

 

1997 with single cat v6, doug thorley headers
I’m running a magna flow exhaust right now that’s 15 years old.
Next week having dual exhaust added just for the hell of it from cat back that will be a magna single in dual out coming off either sides of the side of the truck

 

SMH....
Never ending modster.

 

you know it
My next mod in question when I get my supercharger rebuilt next in the fall and it will be off the truck will be a dual air temp guage if I can
get one of the sensors tapped into the supercharger area going into the intake if possible, don’t know.
Then I would have before temps at the throttle body and temperatures going into the top of the intake after the supercharger.
Would be interesting to see how much temperatures difference their is with different methonal nozzles.

Clock location will be the Gauge location.


Have to do some research on this and find a guage I like too.

Don’t know if anyone has done this mod?

 

That's funny.
I've been researching uses the AUX in on the Fic6 for post supercharger air temp. Got it figured out. I'll be able to see temps with lap top or log temps. But never thought about using a double gauge.

 

I’m sure this can be done without an problems.

The turbos with inter coolers use this setup.

Just don’t want to pull the supercharger off right now since it will be rebuilt is August or so,
That’s when I will look closer,

Having a real time gauge would be cool too,

Just have to figure out where to tap a 3/8 hole into the supercharger base where it’s exiting

 

Back were the brass nipple for reference boost signal there's plenty of room.

 

You can get the IAT from maf sensor on the scangauge.

 

Yes, I have that but I want the 2 temperature in the same gauge side by side with one glance and want my intake sensor right ahead of the methanol nozzle

 

Ah, that would have been useful information to include. I have the stock exhaust manifold.

I think I posted some pictures of where I put mine several pages back...it’s before the first O2 sensor before the first cat. That piece of exhaust is easy to remove and weld on the bench. Just make sure you have enough space for the sensor and don’t weld the bung in the wrong location...should go without saying

 

That's my problem, thanks for bringing this to my attention! The URD pulley's have that round block sticking out so I just assumed Pulley Boys would be the same way. I'll get that swapped around ASAP.

 

Looking for ideas here... when I go from light throttle to heavy throttle at most of the time I get hesitation for a second. I can see with my scanner that the timing drops and then comes back. I have the stock pulley with URD 7th injector kit, auto converted to manual. I’m not an engine guy so not sure what to look at, runs great otherwise. It’s usually when I’m accelerating quite a bit like downshifting to go up a hill or pulling out fast.

 

What’s this worth used? Supposedly excellent condition with 30k miles of use?

 

It's only worth $500. I'll buy it.




J/K they average around $1700

 

They all say excellent condition and low miles, thats an older TRD,
you probably need a rebuilt to know what you have and that's 1000.00

1000-1200 is what I think

 

Duals happened today for the supercharger.

 

Anybody have any thoughts? Think it could be the 7th injector map?

 

Check your spark plug gap. Run the stock gap on the IK22. Do not gap them to N/A spec.