UCA Installation/Removing the Bolt

Just as a point of information, reference the bolt head direction on the UCA, they will back out even when installed "high side" up. My local mechanic did not load my suspension prior to torquing the bolts and within one day they had backed out (up hill) to the point that one nut had two threads engaged--the other side was just VERY loose. Not sure if they could back all the way out due to the fender splash metal, but they could certainly disengage one side of the UCA. I questioned him on how he did the install (I provided him with the SPC instructions and a link to a video on how to install) and he had not loaded the suspension prior to final torque as is specified in the instructions. He did it the second time and we also used a small amount of blue lock tite and after 400 miles all is well. I also marked the nut to bolt thread with orange "torque seal" to make it easy to spot any loosening.

The point of my post is that the bolts will back out--regardless of the direction of install.

Cheers,

db

 

I would drill a hole in the bolt threads and install a cotter pin if that was my truck. Fuck that noise

 

I installed my JBA’s last week. Took me 30mins per side. I had put it off for nearly a year dreading it would be difficult to get the bolt out, and would be a complete pain in the ass. Truth is, it was an unbelievably simple job.

I bent the inner fender very little and didn’t need to use a punch or anything else to get the bolt out; came out easily with just pulling on the bolt by hand.

I really don’t see what the fuss is about or why people would cut it and install the new one backwards, that’s just lazy AF.

 

I had to bend the metal way more than any install video leads you to believe and had to u a large punch. I also, thought about installing them backwards. In the end I just went to town on the pinch seem. After the 1st one, the 2nd one gets easier.

 

Results vary across trucks. Some require little bending, others require more. I just helped a buddy install a set last week, and he had to bend his inner fender considerably and had to punch them out. Was it a big deal? No... but they didn't just slide out. Each truck will be different.

I cut my bolts and flipped them years ago. In all of my regular UCA maintenance, the nuts have never been loose. Be sure to torque to spec and they're fine. I also put a witness mark for quick and easy checks. I'll take being lazy any day. Work smarter, not harder. Although both methods require about the same effort.

 

good idea on the witness marks, I’m gonna go do that now.

 

I've read the WHOLE post. Its funny how you keep trying to win.....There's always one guy in these posts that have to be "Mr. know it all".....and get the last word......have a nice day.

 

If I was to do it all over again, this is what I would have done...buy new bolts, cut off the old ones.

 

I ended up filing a flat in the bolt head flange (similar to grubburg’s idea) and it went from a BS job, to easy peasy. I’m talking about the passenger side.

 

is that 3inchs of lift? and what did you go with for suspension and uca?

 

That was pretty fun I must say. Read every post. Can one of you uber smart people regarding UCA’s tell me why I would want to replace a perfectly good piece of metal for another piece of metal (I do like the red...) in the first place? My truck seems to work just fine doing Moderate to Difficult trails here in Colorado so why? I have the Toytec lift that came with my truck and my son said, you should change your UCA’s from the factory ones. What is the performance gains here? Sounds more like a PITA than what the benefit would be.

 

Stronger arm/ball joint. Poly bushings for ease of articulation. Allow for better alignment. Allows you to run extended travel coilovers.

those are the benefits. Whether or not you need them is up to you

 

Ah makes sense, maybe I will go back to Toytec and have them do it someday.....it was a serious question in a sarcastic way. Sounds like a good upgrade perhaps. Thanks!

 

Oops

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/nut-slipped-off-from-uca-today.670934/

 

Imagine that. The bolt backed up "uphill". Guess it doesn't make a difference which direction the bolt is installed. If the nut comes off you are in for trouble.

 

Hopefully I’m not crucified for this tweak, but I did the UCA’s today swapping some 3rd gen takeoff coil overs and UCA’s onto my ‘08 sport. Getting the bolts out took the flexing as noted throughout this thread, then to reinstall I simply took the bolts to my bench grinder, and took one side of the flange down flush with the hex head. This gave me about 1/4-1/3” of clearance. They still took a little coaxing, but they went in way easier than they came out.
As long as the TW public doesn’t decide this is a suicidal move, I highly recommend this free, super easy tip.
Cheers!!

Also, I just saw the essential procedure that the truck suspension be flexed and loaded b/f this bolt is torqued. Is that widely known and practiced? I guess I’ll be backing these off a little and retorquing.

 

This method just saved me. Didn't know i could go through the front bumper. With the ribs on the battery box i could not get enough leverage from the top to knock it through. I used about 12” of socket extension, then put on our spare tire jack rod onto that which came out the front bumper 10” or so, it fit somewhat well into a 3/8ths female connection. Hammered it in from there!

 

OP, as stated before,

1. Flat channel locks are how we bend out the inner fender. Put some muscle into it and be liberal with the bend.
2. Unbolt your brake lines from the frame and gently push them aside during instal.
3. Torque the pivot bolt to manufacturer spec and re-torque after 200 miles. This will preclude all of the backing out scenarios.

If the bolt head gets hung up, you can tap it out with a long stout flat head screw driver and hammer.

 

Hate to revive old threads but this is the only one that seems to have people with some good ideas. I'm making the switch from SPC to JBA because the bushings and ball joints gave on my SPC with less than 15k miles.
I don't mind bending the sheet metal. I do not want to reinstall backwards, and last dont want to grind down one of the bolt. From reading and watching a few videos it seems the driver side is the hardest to remove and reinstall. It seems that tapping the bolt down with some extension is the best way to force the bolt back in. Anyone have any other advice I should note before I attempt this install. Just dont want a 2 hour job to turn into an entire weekend job. Thank you all

 

Did you attempt to reinstall with out grinding down the bolt?