JFR Equal Length Y-Pipe for 2nd Gen Tacoma, T4R, & FJ Cruisers

Cali special —-> swap out all non carb parts prior to smog and back in after

 

IMPORTANT:

If you have these lower control arm gussets my y-pipe wont fit with the y-pipe hanger installed!



I will try to highlight the area with MS Paint tomorrow.

Please let me know if you have these gussets installed.

 

is that the marlin crawler ones ?

 

Yes

 

Damn I was going to get a set of those soon.

 

You MAY be able to modify them to facilitate y-pipe install/removal but I would clamp them in place then remove y-pipe to ensure clearance before welding them on.

You also have a 4x4 which has a lower crossmember so yours MAY fit as is but I cannot confirm.

I should have taken more pics but I was feeling like poop and @Lucario Runner needed to get on the road.

 

I see 4x4 and fitment was mentioned a couple times.... Is that something I need to note for the build of my y-pipe? Cause my truck is a 4x4...

Nice to see the shop has power now! (TW dropped me off the notification of this thread 5-6 pages ago, no clue why)

 

@Lucario Runner , if the sky isn't falling out, could you get under there and snap some pictures of the differences? That'd be quite helpful.

 

Good to know before I burn mine in, but I don't see how they could possibly interfere all the way up by the LCA with the Y-pipe??? Standing by for pics.

 

I think what they’re talking about is when you install the y-pipe you have to slide the back part of the Y up over the crossmember then tilt the front of the y-pipe up into place.

The control arm pivot reinforcement thingy sticks out toward the rear of the truck a little and is probably interfering with tilting the front of the y-pipe up to get it to meet up with the header.

That’s what I’m seeing in the picture posted above. As usual I may totally wrong and just running my mouth! Of course @Roostfactor and @Lucario Runner were there so they can elaborate on it.

 

This is basically the difference of frames on the dcsb. The frame is modular yes but with the option of 2wd or 4wd, auto or manual. The prerunner auto mount sits a little bit higher than the 4x4. The exacerbation is also the requested outlet i.d of 3in. If I had went with 2.5 if wouldn't be that be a big deal. There is a recess on the floor of the body when the heat shield is removed that can help but with the front skids and how far they stick back a hanger wouldn't allow rotation for install. Now you could notch the skids but lose that integrity of the mount. The other solution which we did was move the mount to the cat back and carrier bearing support. Took a bit longer but works as well as the oem one on the frame.

 

Pretty much spot on mate

 

It isn't anymore but I'm debating whether to fall out of bed atm.

 

So on a DCSB 4x4 this is a non issue ?

 

That is an unknown. We don't have a 4x4 auto/manual w/those gussets to verified the fitment. This is a PSA from roost and one of the adventures of modding hoping all the parts you install play nice and when they don't come up with a solution. The hanger relocation placement is that solution.

 

I think I am next in line. I am a DCLB auto. I also have 3" outlet. I have the MC gussets, but they are not burned in yet. I can help verify.

 

You can actually see you transmount now or whatever time. per roost the 4x4 transmount is lower compared to a prerunner (which I uploaded) so that can be one of the way to verify even before you get the y pipe.
There is also the recess on the floor that will help the install. Driver side pictured.

 

A stopped clock is right twice a day!

Glad y’all were able to create a workaround to get it bolted on.