HP Tuners for 2005-2015

Yeah there are two throttle load based limits ("high load" and "low load" which are essentially identical) and two torque tables ("optimum torque" and "optimum trans torque")

 

Optimum torque is a 3D representation of engine torque, used in everything. Since true engine torque can not be calculated this table is uses to represent what torque would be at the given conditions, and uses that for various other calculations (in throttle)

Trans torque should be throttle x speed 3D and is used to calculate what the best torque for shifting, which is then used in calculation shift time, pressures, etc.


The way I understand these tables may be different than HPTs definition of them, as I do not know these tables by the name of " max throttle" because max throttle of 113 isn't possible, neither most of those values. Instead I understand them as expected airload value at given rpm, torque, and is used in combination to determine throttle. This is why it's spiky, 5200 rpm being peak HP

 

Well @nd4spdbh I put a little over 200 miles on the truck this weekend, and about 80 of it was dirt. Road manners for the truck were awesome as everyone has said. As for off road, first, 37’s at about 20psi are amazing. Like what chatter, football size rocks, and sharp ruts to cross. As for the trans tune though, it was good everywhere but in the cinders where I really wanted it to hold gears a lot longer. But I feel in that case I’m gonna want to just manually shift it anyways. So no negative remarks there because it’s a very specific scenario that if tuned for would make the truck terrible to drive anywhere else

 

We can go spicier. When you say you want it to hold gears longer. Is that on the current gear before an upshfit, or in the current gear before a downshift?

 

Current gear before an upshift. But it’s like being in the dunes where you really want it to hold a certain gear at mid throttle and heavy load. I feel it’s very situational and trying to fix that would make on road and most other scenarios worse.

 

I sense the next version,,, the "dune tune".

 

I get what you are saying, IE, down in 2nd light throttle but upcoming you know you are going to be getting into it (say out of a turn or up a hill) but it upshifts to 3rd due to light throttle and the fact the trans cant predict the future. I can raise the low throttle input DS rpms and bow up the upshift curves a bit more to make upshifts occur even later, but we might be getting to a point of possibly hurting day to day driveability. If you and probably @12TRDTacoma wanna be test mules, let me know.

Haha dune tune i like that!

 

The only issue I have seen and this may be due to the ECU thinking at idle stumble is when I roll into the throttle with little to no load from 3rd gear accelerating. I will need to pull some logs, but basically the engine is cruising in Open loop decel in third and then roll into the throttle it won't start pulling power and falls off then after the temporary shut down, it seems to find second gear and then proceed like its pissed off at me.

 

Exactly and that’s what I’m worried about. It would be awesome to have a switch in the cab to toggle between trans tunes but I really think it would hurt day to day drivability. So imho don’t worry about it. Cruising around in the dirt in forest roads and what not the tune was nice

 

I would probably say my most unhappy point right now is the fact that on the majority of general highway inclines which are not similar to grade like the grapevine I want to see 4th gear out of it, not so much TC lockup disengage back to 5th gear. I still find myself throwing it into 4th gear manually so it can hold the gear there while going up inclines on the highway that way I'm not digging into low boost situations.

Got something that can cure exactly what I'm describing?

 

I was out in the desert off road this weekend as well. Highway mpg's actually went up and total average was a 2mpg gain. For me it felt like it was climbing better at lower rpm which might just be preference. Don't really like the WOT on hills so a higher gear seemed to help with that.

Off road the instant throttle response was real nice for a change. Made me feel safer and was able to have to real fun which helped test my shock setup while fully loaded with gear.

 

Regarding the hiccup or pause at take off or at super light throttle situations I have this to say...

It's still there and Justin's most recent tune has helped die it down some, I have noticed the greatest success in actually changing out my spark plugs to the Rutheniums... May there be an actual misfire originating from the coils at take off? I don't know but given I have 121K I may have to start checking my coils at this point. I have noticed a positive increase in fuel economy as well from switching out the plugs to the new style... I am on my 2nd full full tank since so we'll see what happens with this tank.

I definitely need an update tune from Justin for WOT runs. I think I'm going to take a new and updated WOT log for him so he can see if there are any positive changes which he can add or tweak.

 

Interesting, id be curious if you could log that.

Sounds like you want the 4 to 5 shift to be taller, so once downshifted into 4th while climbing it wont shift back up to 5th will you level off and reduce throttle? Spicy Taco Sauce Batch 3 might have what you need.

 

I want the tranny to shift out of OD and stay in 4 during inclines. I'm so bad with taller/ shorter expressions when it comes to shifting..

I think that is what you are labeling? Lol.

 

haha yeah. I getcha. Does the trans shift at a point down into 4th at an appropriate time? and just has a tendency to want to shift back up to 5th too soon?

 

I think so. I think that is the issue right there.

At what point in the pedal engagement do you have a downshift triggered? Like let's say I'm approaching an incline and need to give it juice to get it going more... What is the percentage, 30-40%

 

Interesting that the new plugs solved some hesitation issues. Do you 4.0 guys run cooler spark plugs? If so how many steps cooler?

 

Depends on what gear and at what speed.



From Spicy Taco Sauce Batch 2


Left (vertical) axis is DRIVESHAFT RPMS, not engine. Bottom, (horizonal) is accelerator pedal position percentage. Stock gearing is ~ 41 driveshaft rpm's per mph. so Imagine Cruising at 75 mph = ~ 3000 driveshaft rpms. You are in 5th gear at say 20% accelerator pedal input. Which with the above graph would need 45% accelerator pedal input to downshift to 4th if you were in 5th, and 65% to go from 4th down to 3rd at the same 75mph.



That stated, sounds like your issue is on the upshift from 4 to 5 and it occuring too soon. Im whipping up a batch 3 of da spice, which will make the shift from 4 to 5 occur later (actually raising all upshifts and reshaping to try and make @snowsk8air2 happy )

 

Most of us run OE IKH-22 (heat range 6) plugs myself and @BillDaCat8 are now using Ruthenium (heat range 7 equivalent) plugs. They have a different method and style of firing and allow for a much larger flame kernal front inside the combustion chamber so the heat range deal is on a different playing field with these. The self cleaning characteristics on the porcelain will be different (at least they should in theory) due to the larger burn.

They are definitely hybrid plugs which I am totally enjoying!

I plan to pull one out in about 1500-2000 miles to see how it's looking because at less than 8,000 miles my IKH-22 plugs were absolutely TOAST.

That is definitely an issue I would like for you to fix please! Do me a favor and lessen the amount of pedal effort needed to maybe 35% from a 5th down to 4th situation as well.

Example. I am cruising the great highways and I decide I want to get a downshift while locked up. That's predominantly when I want less effort. I think 1/3 (so 33-35%) of pedal depression is perfect for downshifting when on the highway while approaching inclines.

 

I might have to try those. The 3.4 guys run 2 steps cooler with iridiums (IK22) It’s just what has been recommended by URD.

But I’m wondering if a better flame front could help with some of the hesitation some of us experience.

I’m debating on sticking with the 7 heat range or going up to the 6. They seem to be very close in any case. A conversion table has 6/7 as equivalents to the 22 Denso range for some reason.

do you feel that it idles better?