HP Tuners for 2005-2015

we shall see what i can do. I forsee going that extreme on the light end of the accelerator pedal input will make the trans hunt between 4th an 5th way too much.

 

Man you guys with boost want to drop gears. Why not hold the gear and just let it boost?

 

It idles SO smooth now! Give it a shot. You are close enough anyways and if heat range 6 is recommended then the 7 should be close enough to the point where the larger flame front will benefit you in a positive way.

It's easy enough to do on the 3.4 vs us 4.0s.. the majority of the 4.0 dudes pull off their blower to do the plugs but I don't like spending extra time to do that. Give it a try!

NGK P/N 95125

I would make sure the specs match your plugs before you just toss them in. The plugs have a reach of 26.5mm and have 14mm threads if I remember right. Don't worry about resistor values.

Well if we want to make an omelette we got to break a few eggs right?

 

More boost means more heat, more heat means more fuel is required to keep combustion chamber temps down, more fuel required means worse gas mileage, it also means higher pumping losses which further hurts our already crap-tastic fuel economy.

 

Well you boosted it so use it imo, ha. I cant imagine what boosted mpg would be costing me (plus the premium gas price difference).

 

I need wideband data - for ALL RPM's. Not just "it leaned out to 12.5". If you're running lean and don't have wideband data in your logs, or have the ability to somehow record what the AFR is at a known point (at least every 500RPM) there's not much I can do to. Guessing and adjusting stuff in the blind isn't going to get us very far.

Send me logs with wideband data PLEASE

 

Traditionally most boosted users see a boost situation in about 5% of their total trip... Considering how often our high gear lugs us around in boost I would up that percentage to as much as 15-20% for those who see mixed driving situations such as myself.

That not only is a decent chunk of fuel spent just lugging around, but it is also unnecessary wear and tear on our spark plugs which tend to foul quickly due to the 11.5 AFR which our blowers seem to drop down to when PE is required. Typically if we are lugging around enough to get into boost, our pedal effort is above 40% which is roughly where most of our PE (power enrichment) threshold level begins. You quickly see the dip down from 14.6-14.7 AFR to 12 if not 11 AFR. I don't like those AFRs unless I'm intentionally wanting to have fun.

Considering that most here including myself get as little as 13MPG if not even less, it's a big deal man. Not that I don't enjoy boosting, but I'd rather stay in vacuum until I want the power delivery there. What bothers me is the fuel station fill ups. If I can minimize those while I don't need and want to have fun then that is a win in my book alone.

Example of what our plugs look like after less than 10,000 miles... This is my most recent set of IKH-22's... NA users could never get close to what these plugs look like even on their worst day because they don't require the excessive fueling we do just to keep things cool:

 

Let me see if I can get you a really good one. In the coming days. I may be able to convince the GF to sit in the back while focusing on the gauges with her camera.

I have noticed some recent random spikes as high as 15.08 AFR while cruising. Hopefully I can catch it during the logs.

Regardless, I'll get you something soon!

 

Fair enough.

 

Since you just changed plugs, maybe it's the plug gap. Too much gap in boost will show lean spots it's actually misfires, incomplete burns.

quoted wrong person

 

Wrong person?

 

fixed it, accidentally quoted the wrong post.

What is your plug gap? I would start there since you changed them and it made a difference.

Also regarding coils. Toyota makes exceptionally good coils. So unless one is dead/bad it's unlikely. 3rd gen guys just had a similar discussion about coils.

 

I used to run the .043" gapped NGKs prior to switching back to the IKH22s... Honestly, the larger plug gap seemed to be better for me despite the higher than OE boost. I know higher boost levels tends to blow out larger plug gaps but it's almost as if the smaller gap was working against me in this instance.

Regardless the new gap is now .039". running NGK's again and things seem to be better like what they were prior to the IKH-22s.

It's definitely been an experimental learning curve with the spark plugs and finding a nice equilibrium between too little and too much gap.

 

Unless you are running severely retarded ignition, reducing cylinder pressure, that is too much gap. (in my opinion). You'll likely keep killing plugs and getting misfires. I'd gap down to at least 0.034 and tune from there. I also wouldn't run the AFR so rich (which you mentioned and are right about). You only need richer AFR when cylinder temps go up. This takes time, and is not an instant process. (again you correctly said)

Not trying to tell you how to tune, just trying to give you some tips I've accumulated over the years.

For reference, I tuned a supercharged lotus Elise, 12psi and AFR was never under 12.0 @ 10-11psi. (pump gas, crappy china pump gas)

My Harrop SC Tundra AFR doesn't even leave 14.7 at low RPM full throttle. It isn't necessary to immediately enrich. Only when temps rise does more fuel become necessary.
Lexus IS200 turbo engine runs stoic at 18-19psi until almost 4500 RPM, almost constantly. Because that's when cyl temps start going to the threshold of needing fuel to cool.

But step 1 (IMO) fix plug gap and get JustDSM proper logs like he said.


The plug pic you posted looks like excess heat on the tip.

 

I am not in a position to discuss what AFR is right and what is not as I am not a tuner and it's not my arena. I am in a position, however, to say that I do agree that 11.5 AFR is not necessary for every vehicle even when boosted. As it stands I am currently seeing AFRs of 12.3-12.8 ish at wide open throttle and I detect zero knock using the current plugs I am and the engine seems to have a very nice pull across the board. Does that mean it is currently tuned right? Maybe, maybe not, it's not my place to say one way or another..

Have you heard of Ruthenium spark plugs? These things are legitimately the bee's knees and feel like a legitimate game changer for boosted dudes.

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/products/ignition-parts/spark-plugs/ruthenium-spark-plugs

Of course the real data lies in the logs because I can rant and rave about anything all day, but that doesn't mean I'm right until I have hard factual data to back up whatever it is I am facing about. I'd like to see what Justin's report is about them once I get him the information he needs to make accurate changes.

 

using knock feedback to determine when you cross that heat threshold?

 

I'm eager to see/hear how your NGK 95125 Ruthenium HX plug experiment goes.

 

Think those plugs would give us N/A guys any benefit?

 

Maybe the DFE (double fine electrode) version. It appears they are more tailored for low heat engines... i.e. NA 1GR engines.

 

I like my cats haha... NA'd and PE is around the 12.3:1 mark and it tapers down to ~ 11.6-11.7 at WOT before redline, truck pulls great.