Anything welding

I also spent three on SSBN-644(G).

 

Welding cast is really alot of work, prep and post.
Preheating is typical to insure penetration.
Post heating is done slowly to keep the rate of thermal retraction to a minimum.
I've done Dana axles, trusses, tubes and clocked Cs and always use 309L stst. filler.
The stainless filler is a great medium for this app. Strong enough for steel and malleable enough for cast.
Your welds look like the weld on the cast didn't sink in and on the mild plate partially sank in.
Cast is super brittle so if you jump this axle in the dunes I would be inspecting it directly around the cast welds immediately.
If you're crawling this axle you prolly won't have much to worry about, unless you're really heavy footed.

 

If this axle fails then I’m going with a d60. I’m not gonna try and polish a turd anymore than I already have. As it is, I’m going to run tires that’s already probably too big for this axle anyways.

 

General fab question for you guys-

My front bed mounts failed. I cut out the cracked section, boxed it in, and then rebuilt with 3/16" plate. Which sucks welding that to the 14ga or whatever bed.

Anything else you would add or do to this? Don't want to pull the bed again anytime soon.

 

Looks just fine the way you did it IMO

 

More progress on this thing. I’m making this post as I work to let my air compressor catch up. Added reinforcements near the vice, added the casters, rounded off all edges and corners and am hitting the top with a DA sander to knock down some of the mill scale. Not totally fresh steel as I don’t want this thing rusting in my garage.

 

Now that’s a fuckin work bench! While the casters roll very smoothly, they did introduce a bit of wobble in the work bench if I’m purposefully trying to wobble it. We‘ll see if I keep them on there. I may instead made some bolt on feet to retain the current height. Then swap these on for those rare occasions I’ll pull it off the wall. I’ll leave it as-is for and just use it and decide if I want to do that.

 

https://www.rockler.com/rockler-workbench-caster-kit-4-pack might be a solution to that dilemma? Weight capacity my be an issue in your situation though, that 1/4" is pretty heavy

 

If you wanna be fancy you could build something like this. Just did a quick search on welding bench feet.

 

Those are sweet! Fuck, $80 though. I saw earlier in this thread one table had some cheap bottle jacks built into the side to do the lifting. I may adapt that.

hey good timing!

 

100% new to welding and really want to pull the trigger on a Hobart 140 so I can weld together a rear bumper (Coastal Offroad) and sliders (4xInnovations).

There is only one thing holding me back, I can’t find an answer to my question regarding power at my current residence. I have tried searching google but I don’t think I even know enough to phrase the question correctly, I haven’t found a solid answer yet, and am hoping you all can chime in on whether or not I can move forward and buy the welder and get to work.

Here’s the situation;

I currently own and live in a travel trailer and rent a stall at a park, my trailer is hooked up to 30amp service. The post has a 30amp receiver and a few regular outlets, no 50amp receiver. I know the Hobart 140 is a popular machine for starting out with and a few folks have used it to build bumpers and stuff so that is why I’m looking at it, and I know it plugs into a regular outlet.. so far so good..

BUT when I read more into the product description it says: Amperage output 25-140; 20% duty cycle at 90amps, 19V

I am at a 30amp stall, the welder seems to run at 90amps, am I going to be able to actually use this machine, am I just not understanding the numbers correctly, or am I SOL???

I can turn a wrench pretty proficiently, but electrical stuff can definitely get my head spinning and I have no clue here.

Would I be able to plug this directly into the 30amp receiver at the post with an adaptor, or into one of the regular outlets at the post? I have no idea how the regular outlets are wired, when I moved in management said it’d be no problem to put in 50amp service at the post, which I didn’t need because my travel trailer is set up on 30amp. Would it be strong enough to put together my bumpers and sliders and other truck related projects like frame reinforcement?

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!! Also open to suggestions on a set up that would be optimal for what I want to do and where I’m at, the Hobart 140 looks really good to me because its affordable, but if there is something better for a comparable cost I’m all ears.

Ps, being in a travel trailer and all, I’d be doing my welding outside, if that comes into play at all.

EDIT: This post became pretty long winded.. I know its in the “anything welding” thread, but if people object to it being here I will gladly move it.

 

A 30 amp breaker is plenty for that machine. My Hobart 220v welder uses a 30 amp breaker.

 

Welders come standard with 50amp plugs but most 240v welders us hobbyists are using wont draw more than 30. I’m running my welder off of a 30 amp. I created my own extension cord with a 30amp male plug to plug into
my dryer outlet and a 50amp female plug to plug my welder into. What does the plug look like you’d be plugging into?

 

Good to know, thank you. So even though you are running off a 30 amp breaker, you are able to fully power your welder? That I guess is my concern, the Hobart 140 isn’t the most powerful welder out there and I’d be working with some fairly thick steel, so I want to make sure I’ll actually be able to use the whole range, and that one line in the product description really trips me up... Amperage Output 25-140; 20% duty cycle @90 amps, 19V

Same concern as above. But I’m beginning to think I’m over thinking this (I do have a tattoo of “the thinker” on my arm because I tend to do this lol).

Basically you are both saying that, even on a 30 amp breaker which limits current to under 30 amps, you are able to run your machines (220, and 240). So even though the duty cycle states something about 90amps, neither of you - with your larger welders - are drawing that. If that is the case then I really should be totally fine.

Heres a picture of the power post at my stall, excuse the spider webs haha, been a while since I’ve had to do anything with it.

 

Ok ok, I think my 3 remaining brain cells (had a bit too much fun in college) may have properly understood this..

The whole thing about 20% duty cycle at 90 amps isn’t saying it requires 90 amps of power to operate with a 20% duty cycle, its saying within the 25-140 range, at 90 the duty cycle will be 20%!

Is this correct?

 

Fwiw My Miller 140 autoset plugs into a standard 15a receptacle and has never tripped the breaker, even when maxed out.

 

Yeah that 90a is how much it’s output will be. When I was new that confused the crap out of me too. I was like “wait but I only have a 20a outlet.....”

 

Made a lil plasma holder. The cutting torch is so long it reaches most of my garage. Still plan on adding a small plasma table extension with water catch can. Just cutting out this bottom plate caused my garage to get smoky, fast.

 

Fab'd a sheet metal brake today. Could not wait for the new glasses. (apparently it's difficult to wrap prescription lenses on safety glasses) ah..horseshit. Anyhow, I'm okay for a blind guy. It worked.
Zim

 

This was my first time using Steel-it. It goes on super thick and it is hard to screw up. Any uneven spray/blotches levels out and blends in as it dries.