Abs, brake light, and traction control light

Hey all, I’m new to this forum deal but I need some guidance. The abs, brake light, and traction light all came on earlier after I plugged in my trailer lights. I noticed all of these once I got back in the truck after hooking it up. I’ve checked fuses and none seem blown. Abs sensors look clean. Brake fluid is in between max and min. It just seems odd that they all came on at the same time after plugging in trailer lights. Any suggestions or guidance is greatly appreciated.

 

I would bet a blown fuse. Check them with a meter or test light. Do not trust a visual check.

In order of probability:

1.) IG1 NO2 Fuse
2.) Tail Fuse
3.) IG1 Fuse.

 

Checked fuses and they are good. Did a scan and right rear speed sensor seems to be bad.

 

I just had the same thing happen today, but I was driving down a smooth road and I heard a click like a fuse blowing.
ABS, Brake, Traction control, and tpms lights all came on instantly. Engine still ran fine, so I made it home.
Power windows and AC/fan did not work though. I'm going to check fuses tomorrow.
I have a simple $20 code reader that only displays/clears codes; anyone know if this will show me speed sensor condition?

 

So it was the IG1 No.2 fuse, Thanks Jimmy! New fuse and all dash lights went off and windows work.
However, the fuse continues to blow whenever you turn on the AC fan switch.
I read lots on here about the bad connectors on blower motor and resistor.
Blower motor connector did have some discoloration, but did not melt yet. The resistor connector looks very good, no hot spots showing.
I will be replacing both connectors later this week when parts arrive. Ohmed out the resistor and it is good.
Taking the blower motor to work tommorrow to check current draw.

 

So the fuse blowing issue when turning on the fan switch remains. IG1 No 2, 10A. Not sure what to try next.
Parts replaced recently:
AC compressor, condensor, serpentine belt, (all done at dealer).
Done by Me: blower resistor and wiring connector, blower motor and connector, soldered connections with good old leaded kester rosin core solder.
Carefully disassembled A/C control Panel and cleaned, polished, and resprung all contacts on the fan switch. small amount of DeOxit gold added to all connection points as well.
Tried a 15 A fuse for testing purposes in the IG1 No 2 slot. Blew it too after about 2 seconds instead of one. Clearly a short somewhere.
I am about to go out and swap the Mag Clutch relay for another close by and see if there is any change. If that does not help I am leaning towards the AC amplifier.
Any way to test it before I spend $350?

By the way I borrowed a friend's nice new code reader and there were no codes displayed.

 

Mag clutch relay under hood temporarily swapped with horn relay, no change.

 

Sorry I can't help much, but where I would start is here:

Done by Me: blower resistor and wiring connector, blower motor and connector, soldered connections with good old leaded kester rosin core solder.

Unplug the resistor and see if the fuse still blows.
Do the same for the two wire plug going to the blower motor.

Other than that you need to just spend some time with a multimeter reading wires looking for a ground/short.

 

Thanks Jimmy, appreciate the schematic! I'll continue to check things as I have time.
Is it ok to run the ac system a few days without the resistor? I'm Ok with nothing but hi speed fan until I get to the bottom of this.
When the fuse pops the windows won't go down and it is getting steamy down here.

 

Did this do it before changing these components?
If it blows when you hit the ac button, unplug the compressor and run everything.
I have had two that the mag clutch alignment dowel was not aligned properly and rotated and grounded the pos wire to the clutch to ground. Check to see if the clutch magnet closest to the compressor is tight and the wires centered in the indentation.

Also check to see if the fuse blows with the truck on defrost

 

It did not do this before changing the compressor/condenser, and ran fine a couple of weeks after the compressor was replaced before it started acting up.
That's a great idea with the mag clutch, I'll look into it. Maybe it took a couple weeks to rub thru. Thanks

 

I think you nailed it Mike, I looked at the mag clutch wire and the whole plate is loose in there. Funny thing is the compressor and clutch are new, but the wires from the magnet look old. Maybe they reused the magnet from the old unit. regardless, it should not be loose. The dowel is clearly not indexed.

Unplugged the compressor as you suggested and no more blown fuse. It was still blowing fuses with resistor and blower unhooked as Jimmy suggested.
Started to pull the clutch and fix it myself, but it was tight in there and I couldn't find my snap ring pliers. Plan to take it to the dealer next week since they installed the compressor, and ask them to fix the clutch magnet. Thank you both for all the wisdom so far!

 

Might have forgot the snap ring or didn’t index it right and it popped.
If the pin is ok then the coil is probably elongated..
Not your concern really since it’s their issue.
A little advise for next time. You really shouldn’t have tried to
repair it. There are spacers in there and easy to miss.
Plus if you had snapped a bolt or something everything would have been on you
regardless of the situation.
Glad to help...

 

The Dealership took care of it for no charge, it's back to blowing cool again. Hopefully for a long while.

Thanks again to both you gents for the help!

 

Your Welcome.
My work here is done
Time for me to move on
ROFLMAO.

 

Hi everyone, I too have had my ABS/traction control/brake light all together turn on randomly within the last two weeks. I’ve checked the sensor connectivity & fuses with no luck. Anyone have other ideas of what I could check?

 

Did you have the vehicle jump started ?

 

No. But back in late Feb I had all of my shocks replaced, then in late March the lights went off once, but the front passenger side sensor was loose. And now the last 2 weeks it’s been on