TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

mornin fellas. more questions (of course) does anyone know what size the fittings are for the magnesun heat exchanger that mounts in the grill?

 

3/4"

All hoses and fittings are 3/4" for these blowers.

 

Do they make a bolt on heat exchanger thats larger or are you guys running a universal type?

 

Interested in this diode as I am running a group 34 Odyssey and it would love some more voltage. As would the fridge when the truck is not running.

 

Also, got these delivered this morning from Napa. Going to attempt this plug thing without removing the s/c. Thank you for the picture of tools needed @12TRDTacoma.

 

@12TRDTacoma @mr.trd

Can you guys share the photo of the tools needed to r&r plugs w/o removing the blower?

 

Beat me to it. And I assume the air gun is for torquing the spark plugs and coils in correct?

 

they may. however with some testing these heat echangers do just fine for these trucks.

 

Yep. I just start thread them in by hand. Give them a few more turns to ensure they will go in straight without a doubt in my mind then go at it with the Makita.

I torque them down by hand to guttentite torque spec once they are fully in. The coils get the hand rachet treatment because I am capable of getting in and out faster with it than I am fooling around with a swivel 10mm and extension because it will come off if the swivel joint is angled too extreme one way or another.

The best way to do this is to remove the upper bolt for blower bracket on the drivers side and loosen the lower bolt for it, this will allow you extra space to move around and mess around on whatever cylinder you need without interference.

I also remove all hoses from their connections, the PCV hose below the blower, the brake booster hose and the EVAP hose coming out of the side and then I take the fuel lines and move them off their retainers (NOT their bolt in brackets just the retainers!)

The only cylinder I have little issue with is the one closest to the oil cap #2 cylinder I believe. That one always fights me to take off the connector for it.

You finagle the coils out of the blowers way, voila, you are in and free to remove the plugs and reinstall new as needed!

@mr.trd

 

Interesting. Seems reeeaaally small to me.

 

roostfactor has pre and post temp sensors. he claims it works very well.

 

there was some debate a while back about if Slightly larger coolant volume/flow rate made difference vs stock. I don’t think it hurts but this issue is similar. But Once larger volume heats up you have more than needs cooling and larger IC is more restrictive to airflow or not ideal placement in our trucks? Probably a balanced system performs the best. Perhaps to really improve you’d need to upscale all three (capacity, IC, and pump)

pretty sure refrigerators and AC units etc work like fish gills in counter current flow. I’d guess IC/ radiator are similar. the most efficient heat transfer is lots of small ones vs a few big exchanges. Partially explains why a fast exchange through small IC.

 

I believe the plugs are 3.368 ugga-duggas a piece.

 

They are fine Nick. The one which is inside of the Supercharger is the one which is small..

Even then, the intercooler setup on our truck drops temperatures down something considerable... Enough to provide a large boost in power when it works situation..

Ask me how I know.

 

Im just looking for something else to buy. In the next few weeks i'll be out of mods.

 

The highest pre intercooler temp I've seen is 200°F with a 140°F post intercooler temp.

A 60°F temperature differential from our little system.

The higher flow pump does help as just cruising at 75-80 on the freeway with 2.3 pulley temp difference went from 30° to 25° with the higher flow intercooler pump.

 

Get the higher flow pump if you dont already have it.

 

A whopping 60* temp differential, and there you have it @Darkgoatracer ... Some mods are better left alone and or not even done at all.

 

Question for anyone on here. Does anyone have an OE sized 3.0 qwikchange pulley or even a 2.8 I can either borrow or take off your hands?

Testing for my commanded to desired fuel discrepancy continues and now I have to eliminate the physical pulley as a potential itself and revert to the stock size and tune temporarily.