$10 DIY Power Lock Tailgate

I did this over the weekend but didn’t install the actuator in any kind of box or sound deadening. I’m thinking about finding something to put the actuator in now since it is pretty loud even with my tonneau cover on.

 

i might go in and wrap the box with some sound deadening but its a minor issue.

 

no way would i spend $166 when 12 dollars does the same thing. no adult should be scared of tapping wires

 

nice write up. will do this for sure

 

Meh, DIY is fun.

 

the craziest explanation for spending an extra 150 that ive ever seen.

 

IMO if you are a DIY’er, you should have plenty of zip ties, wiretaps and hand tools already. The factory is a great option, don’t get me wrong. But is it worth 10x the price of a DIY? That’s where you have to justify. For me... no way. And I bet my “janky Half-assed setup“ is quieter than that your over priced factory one
Still going strong after 2+ years

 

Got um done today gang. Took me 2 hours because I wasn’t prepared and was anxious to get it on. If I were to do it again which I am since I bought a 2pk I would get the right screws for the actual size of the actuator hole I drilled mine out slightly to avoid splitting. Happy with the mod and have piece of mind that my tailgate is secure. Thanks @MESO for the post. I ordered my key fob tonight to celebrate. Cheeehu!

 

I just completed this and am super happy with the results. Into this for approximately $25!

Big thanks to @MESO for posting this and @Tacotoast for posting the the install instructions Toyota provides as it was my inspiration for the mounting location.

I used

$19 Directed Electronics Install Essentials 524N High Power Door Lock Motor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SWLE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as it included everything needed for the install... I did find I needed to add about 5" to the wires but the actuator is quiet and fits well. I had flat aluminum stock from a prior project and picked up some wire loom to protect the wires. I tapped into the passenger side harness in the foot well with t-taps.

One other thing to note with this is that the actuator end needed to be opened up slightly in order to fit over the pin. It is a good fit and the stiffness of the aluminum stock prevents it from moving and popping off the pin.

 

Thanks man. I'm with you on this. I'm more than capable of making a kit but after you factor in high quality connectors (at tailgate and in cab), wires, grommets and not cutting the factory wiring this kits worth it to me. I bet the cost isn't that big of a difference all in.

I've been looking to do this but didn't like the shit bullet connectors (always an issue on my old RC cars ) in the other kits. I got so used to my tailgate locking on my F150 that I miss it on this truck. I'll be doing the Toyota setup at some point.

 

I absolutely can't believe someone would post something so timid. Sell your truck and go get a Mercedes convertible since you like working with your credit card. You can buy a proper set of crimpers with dies that match the factory pins for less than $150. Its very easy to do a proper "factory" quality crimp.

Just admit you are lazy and prefer using your credit card. That's fine with everyone, but in no way is it a better quality installation or degrades the integrity of the wiring.

 

In other news, I've been called janky and half assed. So I have nothing to lose.

 

Knock this project out today....using up a few zip ties, wire, and a little solder/heat-shrink (NO TAPS ALLOWED IN THIS GARAGE!). Thanks @MESO and the other contributors to this thread. For me this was an easy project and it was <$15 of material.

 

Solder is not used by manufactures because it can't handle vibration and tends to break. A proper crimp is always used in factory wiring for a reason.

You're probably fine, but if you wanted to do it right then you would pull the pins out of the connector and then re-crimp a new pin with dual wires.

It will last the rest of your life, might as well get the right tool.

I have a paladin crimpALL PA8000 which is rather inexpensive, and then you can purchase various dies to crimp just about anything.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tempo-communications/PA8000/PA8000-ND/463651

https://www.digikey.com/products/en/tools/crimpers-crimp-heads-die-sets/232?k=crimpALL

There are various manufacturers so you can shop around, then get the right pins and you can crimp your heart out and its much faster and less messy than soldering and shrink wrapping.

If you do it right, the next person that looks at your work won't know its not factory.

 

Yankee ingenuity (and thriftiness!) is alive and well. Awesome write up on the process. The thing that impressed me the most (as a museum displays fabricator) is the tidy clean seam welds you did on your ABS sound box!

 

Thanks! It’s the only welding I can do

 

I would be concerned if I didn't know how to properly solder....but good tips all around.

 

I'm just saying that working on your truck isn't hard and everyone should do it. Everyone can crimp a wire.

Now if I could only find that AC leak on the ranger I could sell the damned thing.

 

I get it and I do, work on mine. I was just waiting for & encouraging more rhetoric on the pro's and cons of each process. I learned to solder last year and I am definitely more proficient at crimping. I think it's due to my shoddy iron. it was part of a cheap kit I bought to see if I did well before investing more money. Maybe I need to upgrade it. Even though it says it heats up to 400 degrees to me it seems the solder never wants to melt onto the wire fast enough. I also can't stand the wired aspect. I constantly fight with it.

So, anywho, I have this mod to do this weekend and now I am second guessing soldering. I have to wire up a bunch of lights too and considering crimping for those too.