Kicker hideaway- final upgrade to the $250(+) 3rd gen premium upgrade (+Kicker Key 180.4 amp)

Happy to report back that I finally got it to work! What I ended up doing was Posi Tapping into the speaker wire that I added which was thicker than the speaker wire coming out of the Headunit harness. I think the smaller wire didn’t have enough meat to make a solid connection.
I really can’t thank this forum and especially @destin_meeks for the assistance. I am a lot more educated about our trucks audio because of you. I appreciate you all!

 

I only have the white wires hooked up. I ended up not needing the remote wire. My Hideaway switch is on DC. Ground is solid. I have power wire to battery. The bass boost cable is plugged in. My Key switches Have the first and last two switched down. The rest are up. Now I will need to fiddle with the controls to get it dialed in!

 

Has anybody figured out an easy way to get the kick panels Back on the right way? That front clip is a huge pita

 

For those that have they Kicker Key AND Hideaway. What are your switches on the Key at?

 

Mine went on easier than they came off. Just go slow and make sure the bottom pins are towards the front.

 

Key crossover set to 80hz, time delay and EQ enabled, I prefer compression off, bi-amp off (unless you specifically bi-amp’d) and fader On if you’re running front and rear speakers

 

@destin_meeks
This is exactly what I am looking to do, what amp would pair nicely with the 10” CompRT?

20+ years ago I was using RF Punch amps to drive Kicker 12’s, miss that so much.

 

Are you using the factory head unit or aftermarket

 

right now keeping the factory HU.

 

The new Kicker Key 500.1 is really cool.

anything in the 400w RMS range is fine. Rockford, Kicker, alpine, pioneer, kenwood, any of the big names

 

Thanks!

 

At first I was really nervous about this upgrade. I had some install an alpine power pack much like the kicker key when I first got the truck. Now after much reading and successfully installing the sub under the front seat, I feel much more confident in my knowledge of this audio system. Kind of makes me wish I would have tackled the amp install myself as well. But big shout out to everyone that has contributed to this thread.

My only remaining question about this install was what everyone did to route the air vents under the sub. I cant imagine it would be good to have that sub get blasted with heat when you have the seat heaters on blast.

 

Don’t turn it on feet lol. Or duck tape it up

 

Hi All, new here, just got my Tacoma a few days ago. Traded in my FJ Cruiser which I tore apart and rebuilt the entire stereo system in. that one was simper in concept for me since I pulled the entire existing system and built a new one from scratch. Been making lots of purchases for the new truck, and a few have been audio centered around what you all have been discussing. My plan is to do the Kicker speaker swap, add the hideaway and put in the key 180.4. I am a bit confused though on the hierarchy of how the harness' connect into the system.

I have a number of questions:

Does anyone know if the metra harness part numbers are still valid with a 2020, NON-JBL, 8" screen version of the Tacoma?

Does one of the harness' plug into a spare on the back of the stereo? or do the two metra part numbers work together and act as a go between. E.G. Stereo--->Harness--->Back to factory wiring for dimming, common, switched power... while peeling off remote turn on and speaker wire for the Key and Hideaway amps?

When pulling off leads for remote turn on, and speaker inputs to a key amp how are you adding the rear speaker. I thought that was off of a separate harness? The key is a 45X4 right, or are people bridge-ing it down and just running the front speakers?

Lastly does anyone know of a good color coded wiring diagram for the 2020 non jbl stereo wiring, im an electrical engineer and looking at a wiring diagram would really help me visualize how all this ties together.

Thanks for everything ive already read in this thread! Im excited to start this, loving my new truck and am excited to enjoy the stereo after the upgrade!

 

Fellow visual learner

 

Thanks, Taco Cabal, I think im starting to piece this whole thing together in my mind. I already installed the tweeters, they came early and I saw no reason to wait, took about 20 mins. I ended up ordering two metra harnesses for the 2020 head unit:

70-1765
71-1765

To wire the key amp between so I don't need to hack into the factory wiring too much. Now I'm just waiting for my door speakers, and harnesses to arrive.

 

So has anyone figured out the cheapest option for just adding the kicker key for the 2020? I don't want a sub quite yet. Maybe add it later, but just want to go key for right now.

 

How do you get the hideaway under the drivers seat? For me it's about .5" too long. Where the drivers seat bolts down, there isn't room to shove it in there?

 

Looks like I am doing the upgrade for Fathers Day!

 

Hi all, read most of this thread. I know this is a really subjective question but have not seen much of an answer. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I will be doing this upgrade to my new 2020 Tacoma once I take delivery. After my wife got her 2012 Audi Q7 with a stock 11 speaker Bose system with what I believe is an 8 inch sub and amp, I realized how much I was missing with my stock Tacoma system and that I actually do care.
-Will the kicker key 180 and Hideaway 8 likely be significantly better then the system in her Audi? Or will it be worth the $160 upgrade to the key 200 and hideaway 10?
Just looking for a little more base than the system in her Audi offers. Thanks!