Bilstein Lift Question

So, need some input. I have a 1st gen that I was looking to upgrade my suspension set up. Just a small lift nothing crazy. I don't do any off-roading so I opted for the the simple Rough Country 2.5-3" lift. To replace the rear shocks and a small block above my front struts. I got a call the day before it was supposed to be in the shop and was told the RC was on backorder. So I was given the option to do the 5100s Bilsteins all around replacing the shocks and front struts. I picked up the truck the next day and something didn't seem right. After closer in inspection I saw the blue/yellow 4600s and was like uh oh. In the front 5100s were installed. Has anyone ever heard of this and why? The 4600/5100 mismatch? The garage has been super nice and said they would call their Bilstein rep and ask why and switch them out for me.

Also,

they turned the setting in the front all the way up to 2.5". Does the next lower notch down ride any different or is it personal preference? I'm a little higher in the front and would prefer a more leveled ride.

 

Pics of the whole setup?

If you were told 5100s all around, you should have received 5100s.

I bet they put a block in the rear which would suck because 4600s are limited in their collapsed and extended lengths.

5100s are offered in two different lengths for the rear of our trucks to support a minor lift of 0-1.5" and another for 1-2.5"

 

I'll have pics tomorrow.

in reference to the last point of yours. I should op for the 1-2.5" correct?

 

The highest knotch for the 5100’s I’m pretty sure is the 2.5 level you have on your front ones. Imo If your gonna do the 5100’s in the back maybe get new leaf spring shackles just to improve your ride overall. Ask the shop that’s doing it for you about the rear and what you should do.

 

Currently as she stands. I have a few questions..

-Noticing my UCAs have some front wear on them as in the picture. Should this be a concern?

-Since I got the 5100s I've noticed some brown grease/liquid slowly leaking and getting throw behind. Small amounts nothing major.. yet. Angle stress?Remedy?

-Current shackle quality? Should I let the shop order them or am I better off ordering myself?

 

Right and you can tell because the older ones (0-1.5") have three clip positions (three grooves) and the newer version (0-2.5") have four clip positions.

 

I think I'm going to lower them 1 notch down from the top in the front. Do the rear shackles effect the ride enough to consider?

 

I don't understand how the rear has a lift with no block in there and OEM shackles...


The marks on the UCA is caused by a too-wide or wheel offset that has caused the tire to rub. If I remember correctly, the wheels you have less offset, which brings the tire inwards, closer to the UCA. This slight relocation could be the sole cause of the tire to be rubbing now, but could also be from putting on bigger/wider tires.


The grease is caused by the rubber on the CV axle boot drying out and/or the clamp loosening as well as the new extreme angle of the lift causing the boot to be stretched and pulled. You could put on new clamps as a fix, but if the CV boots are dry/cracking you'll need to replace them.



Quick lesson on the 5100's available for the 1st gens - there are two different versions:
The original BE5-D558-TO shock that has been around for years (built by Bilstein exclusively for Race Car Dynamics).
The new(er)

$149 24-249928 Bilstein 24249928 Shock Absorber

24-249928 shock.

So with that information above and your photos, it looks like you have the newer 24-249928, which has 4 clip grooves. It should have come with two new, taller bumpstops which do not look to be installed, which is important when on the 4th clip as they are on your truck. I could be wrong, but it doesn't look like it from the photos that the spacer (washer) was installed under one of the bumpstops on each side.

I'd have them move the front down a notch or two or three...

 

Changing the shackle length longer or adding a lift block will increase the rear ride height.
Changing the leaf springs can change ride height but will also change the ride feel.

 

Great info sir, its greatly appreciated. From my original post I do believe they kinda rushed into making something work. The ride is pretty rough (not that I'm expecting plush or anything, its a truck) I have a call with them tomorrow.. So with the help of the TW eyes. What all do I need to discuss and request? Money isn't a issue. I just want it done right. Any input is appreciated

1. Wheel spacers to help UCA rub?
2. Rear shock situation (wtf is going on? ).
3. Rear hardware needed
4. Move notch or notches down
5. The new bump stop washers
6. Anything else?

 

As for the rear shocks, with OEM leaf springs and shackle, the 4600 are likely fine since you haven't increased the available wheel travel and I believe the 4600 is the stock replacement part.

The size is different between the driver and passenger side rear shocks on our trucks.

4600 REAR Driver (LEFT) 24-184960
Compressed Length: 12.8"
Extended Length: 19.61"

4600 REAR Passenger (RIGHT) 24-184977
Compressed Length: 13.19"
Extended Length: 20.28"

5100 REAR Driver (Left) F4-BE5-D559-T0
Compressed length: 13.93"
Extended length: 21.63"

5100 REAR Driver (Left) F4-BE5-D560-T0
Compressed length: 14.65"
Extended length: 22.57"


Here's a table if you're more a visual person:

 

Also, another note on your specific truck and the 4th clip of the 5100's... You have a regular cab, which means it's relatively light compared to the Xtracab or Double Cabs, which I think this image uses for claiming lift heights of +2" on the 4th clip.



You likely got a >2.5" lift out of the front on the 4th clip with your "light" truck, which has increased the stress on your old CV boots, causing them to leak at the "extreme" angle with that lift.

I'd probably start with dropping down one or two notches on your truck and then figure out how to adjust the rear to match.

 

Yes that helps. So essentially that's prob what they were thinking. Didn't have the hardware ordered for the rear so they knew the 4600s would technically work. I wanted the rear higher tho. I'll touch base with the extra needed hardware to move forward. My expectation was 5100s all around

 

Yeah that makes sense. Definitely is fixable just need to approach it right

 

Woah. okay. First thing I need to ask is, what did you buy for this shop to install?

This is my truck with a Bilstein adjustable 2.5" struts and 5100"s all the way around. I also put a 1" block in the rear. I bought this set up like last month and I have three ride height options for the front struts. at first I did the full 2.5" of lift adjustment and my cv axel angle was to much in 4x4 for my liking. (I do a lot of 4x4) so what you see is my first gen with 5100's all around, 1" block in the rear and the front strut set on the middle adjustment. I also put JBA upper's on but this is not necessary that I know of. I did that because I do a lot of off roading. I like the angle so when I'm driving 90 mph the truck does not feel like its floating.


(looking at this, I just realized my spring look like hell!)

 

Ahhh see this the look I was hoping for. Again I had ordered the RC 2.5" and inquired about the 5100s and the day before my appointment I called to make sure all was ok when I was told they couldn't do the RC. So from my previous inquiry they said they could do the Bilsteins instead for a little more $. In hindsight, I should've inquired about more detail on what they were going to do. So here we are will 5100s in front jacked up high and 4600s to take advantage of my stock hardware . So from your post looks tho I need to do a 1" block and longer U bolts and go to the middle adjustment

 

Will my ride differ at all being at 2.5" and a 1.5" in the back compared to a the front 5100s adjusted down a little and a 1" block?