The stock Toyota Battery is hot garbage.

This is a vent thread for me.

I've had the truck since April 2016. The original battery was replaced within two years. I replaced the "replacement" battery yesterday. With both, I had issues with corrosion and the battery hold down bracket was rusted up. Lately, the truck has had issues starting. If I didn't drive for 24 hours, it just barely cranked.

I wire wheeled and degreased the parts, painted them, and installed an Autocraft AGM. It's the one made by Johnson Controls which looks to be relabeled for several companies: Duralast, Autocraft, Die Hard, Interstate.

Hopefully, this one does better. I did get a 20% coupon by putting in a junk email address and buying online at Advance Auto.




Edit:
Charging at 13.81 VDC
Parasitic Loss for Truck: 9 mA
Parasitic Loss for Ham Radio: 10 mA

 

My original '16 battery finally got replaced this year. 4 hot ass Florida summers.

 

That’s unfortunate.

With your luck you should probably invest in a power pack backup.

I heard batteries don’t last long in warmer climates, but not sure since I live in an area with four seasons.

My 10/15 manufactured truck is still cranking strong on the original battery.

 

The original battery in my '16 just died like a month ago, and same as above, Florida heat liked to cook it. With that said yes it did show signs on corrosion on posts and the tie down is kinda ugly. But hey....I'll take 4 years.

 

It is interesting about the many posts of the early failures on the OE batteries.

Mine is still going strong, but I did just notice a bit of corrosion starting on the negative terminal that I will take care of. Our Subaru had the battery swapped, but it had several deep cycles as the interior lights have no timing on the relays. The kids would forget to shut them off. The second battery had a lot of corrosion on both terminals that I treated.

The weird part is that this is the first time since I was a kid that I had seen anything happening on untreated terminals.

I have a hardwired VM on my bike to monitor battery and R/R condition. I do keep forgetting to monitor the Taco, but even during the long COVID sits, the thing started strong.

Hopefully the AGM fixes the issue for you.

 

I got 8 years on #1 original Toyota
Same for #2 aftermarket
6 months into #3 all is well
Hope it makes it to 2028
#2 battery was $102
#3 battery was $174
4 seasons here and I park in the shade in summer.

 

I had a 1986 Monte Carlo for 7 years and I never replaced the battery. I even had to revive it after sitting dormant for a year. Duralast lead acid battery. Most batteries I've had were better than this one.

 

Oft times short battery life is traceable to three likely causes. Poor maintenance, including loose connections and corrosion. This leads to under charging.

Poorly done electrical modifications. Or insufficient/inadequate charging from ether sitting too long or not running the vehicle long enough to fully charge the battery.

 

same here, just a few months short of 5 yrs and I use it daily and start/stop multiple times a day. no corrosion so far.

 

I didn't even give mine a chance. I had it warrantied (reimbursed).

 

Warm climate here in the south . Gm battery in Equinox from Jan 2015 still original with no problem . 2016 Tacoma battery died in just under 3 years . I do carry a NOCO jump pack in both vehicles . I like the idea that I can wait for a battery event in the GM by having the jump pack , and my 96 GM battery lasted until 2004 , maybe longer but we sold the car . ,Then my 2004 gm battery was changed out in 2010 just to be safe . I was working king out of state and did not want the wife to get stranded .
I could go on but the Toyota battery was the earliest failure of a battery I have ever had unless it was in a boat or a bike .
AGM NorthStar 27F in the Tacoma now , compliments of Toyota.

 

The big difference between your Monte Carlo and the Taco is likely parasitic drain from all the ECUs? That might also be a factor for some batteries with small differences in or between batches? Just spitballing there, since even TW is a small sample of owners.

It would be cool to get some real statics here but likely impossible.

 

So true on the jump packs. They are an amazing bit of tech in today's world. I keep putting off getting one for the daughter's car. That is just dumb on my part because even getting a jump has the potential for big, costly screw ups.

 

Replaced my OEM battery after three years with an Odyssey just because 3 was enough. It seemed to still be going OK, but was taking no chances. I should be good for a long time now.

G.

 

Our '06 4Runner went 9 years on the original Panasonic battery, but it was garage-kept and averaged 6k miles per year. These newer vehicles have more things that stay "on" even when off -- there's a pump that turns on after the vehicle has been off for a while to check for fuel system air leaks, for one -- and all the keyless entry stuff, etc. I think they just wear batteries out faster.

Running to the store to get a new battery for the '06 today, 5 years on a Duralast Gold isn't bad.

 

My oem battery still going strong. They have served me very well both my Tacoma and my wife GX470.

 

Acid/Water levels were checked.

I was constantly dealing with corrosion with this battery. I cleaned the terminals several times. They were always tight. I eventually put some of that terminal oil which stopped the corrosion at the terminals. Still got it on the battery hold down bracket.

The truck does sit now as my I travel more for work than I used to. But it would get driven at least once a week. Still, I've not had to baby sit a battery so much. I've had a few cars and never needed to deal with a battery as often.

I also have a ham radio lead attached to the positive post, but it's always off. I'm planning on checking for current draw to see if it's draining. Still, this is the first battery/vehicle that has given me this problem.

 

That is a good point. I don't know if that test runs enough to drain the battery like that. Maybe so.

Still, all the corrosion that came with this battery is unacceptable. Both batteries were like this. I've really never had so much issue with a lead acid battery.

 

Pretty sure Your 4runner has the same EVAP pump.

 

I came from an 06 4Runner, I kid you not the battery finally stopped holding a charge 2 months before I traded it in. 13 years on the OEM is just mind blowing. Never garaged and cold winters / hot summers. Every winter I’d think well one if these cold mornings it’s not going to start but it cranked over every time. Finally it started to lose charge over the summer when the truck would sit and I’d commute on my motorcycle. I’ve always had good luck with the auto zone duralast batteries before that.