Bilstein 6112

Would also just wait for your new tires/wheels to get an alignment done. Or even reschedule your suspension install until you have them, then bang it all out in one go.

 

4x4 shop near me quoted me at $1500 ... will continue shopping around or give it a go myself. Will be installing 6112/5160 and Camburg UCAs. Having a shop do the leaf pack install as that portion looks out of my pay grade.

 

Front with UCA's will take about 4 hours. Biggest bitch is the passenger side UCA bolt removal. Even after bending, wasn't enough, so i had to use a 3/8" extension thru the bolt hole to tap the bolt out. I used a deep 19mm socket on the end and a hammer to tap it back in. Also, the passenger UCA bolt was a bitch to loosen as there is a brakeline in the way, so i had to use a ratchet-type box end wrench with an extension on it instead of a breaker bar. Struts, sway bar, etc was all easy following the Total Chaos install vid.

Honestly the biggest PITA was swapping over the grease in my gun and getting it to work in the provided zerk's (had to be exactly straight). Otherwise install was quite straightforward.
Rear 5150's took about 1.5 hours. I suggest putting in the bottom bolt first, then using your strength to pull down the shock body and get it into position. I saw a couple vids on youtube of guys doing it the other way, i tried it once and i said no way. Also, you can get the back plates for the reservoirs without dropping the tire, you just have to be good with your hands. Going airbags so i cant answer the spring question.

 

Honestly if it was $1 over 800 I would have just done it myself. The tools needed would be a fraction, and it'll be good experience.

A lot of folks on TW do mod days, so check out your local TW thread. Might find something after the pandemic winds down. Extremely helpful community here.

 

Ahh damn this makes me nervous haha. I'm not very mechanically inclined, but I want to learn so I have better knowledge of the truck in general. I've been able to do simpler things like install my rock sliders and fog lights, but I'm much more worried about messing with crucial performance parts.

Same boat, I'd like the experience but I know I'd need a better jack for most of it and I don't have a garage or flat driveway surface to work on. Thanks for the tip, I'll search around for anything in my area.

 

Don't do it then. If i didn't have experience it would take me double the time.

 

I'm starting to lean that way. The rears look simple though I think I could do that. Would I have any issues with the truck if I have leaf springs and rear shocks installed for a few days before I get the fronts installed?

 

Do yourself a huge favor, go out to your local toyota dealership, have them order 2 new UCA long bolts, and cut out the old ones and reuse the nuts and washers. Saves time and they will pay for themselves in the labor costs (only like $20 for both of them). Then there is no bending, folding or relocation of things just to get the bolts out. Then have them put them in from the back to the front for easy changeouts if necessary in the future.

 

Will still need to screw with the brake line on passenger side...

 

The install for these is SUPER easy. Doing just the 6112s, HS AAL and 5160s is about 3.5 hours of work and that includes beer breaks. Installing UCAs is another story, its a PITA.

Also, I recommend giving it a few days to settle before getting it aligned if you're still on the factory tires. That will give it time to get to its normal ride height and give for a better initial alignment. I always avoid big name national places like Firestone for alignments. Its just not worth it with aftermarket suspension.

Last thing, be sure to re-torque everything that was touched during install about 100 miles following the install and then again about 1000 miles after.

 

I'm on stock UCA's and frankly never had any problems with them. I'm lifted around 2" and dont plan on going above that anyway just to maintain a nice ride. So maybe because of my stock UCA's Firestone has done my alignment 5 or 6 times in the last 8 years. I'd say I got my money's worth. Always comes out good and drives great. Good Luck.

 

I'm in this camp as well. A LOT of guys on TW say to replace the UCAs regardless of lift height, which I think is a waste. If you don't need em you don't need em. I say save yourself some money and alignment headaches, as far as shops not wanting to mess with them.

 

Finally got the 6112s, 5160s, SPC UCAs, and Headstrong AAL installed. 6112s on the 5/4 notch. Noticed the difference within moments of driving it home. She rides smooth as butter now. It's a completely different truck. So happy with the results.

Took some crude before and after measurements from the same spot. 2019 Off Road Double Cab Long Boi. Stock wheels and tires. No carrier bearing drop and no ECGS. Those are on standby just in case. Lift cost $800 to install from a local guy who did a phenomenal and quick job. My pics suck so don't ask.

Before:
FL 34 FR 34 7/8
RL 35 1/2. RR 36

After:
FL 36 FR 36 1/2
RL 37 1/2. RR 37 1/2

Lift Results
FL 2". FR ~1.5"
RL 1.5". RR 1"


Overall I'm fairly happy with the lift, although there is still an 1-1.5" of dip in the front which I don't like. I thought I was going to have trouble with the front being too high but there's only a slight improvement in forward lean. The back looks much higher than before, but the front doesn't look too different despite what my measurements tell me. Shrug.

I did countless hours of research on this. Glad I did, but glad I finally pulled the trigger on this setup. The ride is a frickin' dream.

 

I've heard various things about SAI alignment reading and if it matters or not. Many say it doesn't and many say it could mean something is broken or loose. Does having a taco lean spacer, or having one spring notch set higher than the other (6/5) impact the SAI reading on an alignment? Mine was a little out of spec and I wonder if the aftermarket suspension and UCA is the culprit.

 

Gonna try to install the 5160s this weekend, will have a shop do the 6112s and UCAs next week. Any tips before starting? Should I put some primer on any hardware to help against rust? Also if anyone has a good video that goes over the needed tools I’d appreciate it!

 

Lift the truck up and put stands under the frame so the axle can droop. One of my old shocks i needed to use a vice grip on the shaft to keep from spinning. I pulled the dust cover down and did it right at the top to not damage it. When putting in new shocks, do bottom bolt first, then pull the shock down to get it in. Leave the strap on it for install and cut it off when you get it in place.

 

Thanks for the tips, unfortunately I needed better jacks so I'm delaying this project another week.

 

Finally got the kit installed and couldn't be happier!!
6112/5160 (front shocks set at 5/6)
265/75r16 tires
OME Dakar leaf springs (medium duty)
Camburg UCA's

 

Are you able to offroad with that setup? Or is there a bunch of rubbing

 

Rubbed pretty bad at first, got rid of the mud flaps, and trimmed quite a bit of plastic from the inner fenders. Now on road I don’t get any rub at all. Occasionally while off-roading I’ll get minor rubbing at full flex