The stock Toyota Battery is hot garbage.

Good idea. There was a bit of discussion a while back about volts reported at the OBD port and battery volts. Since I can only check this at idle, this is what I found:





It looks like there is a small drop to the OBD port, if checking there.

Another disadvantage of ETBs. We can't flick the cable under the hood.

 

Yes, there will be copper loses, hysteresis and loses from all the connections from the alternator, to battery, to fuse box, to ECU, through the PCB, all the way to the OBD port. Then another connecting that reader and traveling through its PCB to get the readout. It’s all very minute however and nothing from a reading like that is a cause for concern.

 

Exactly. Just tossing out the info, depending on how folks measure. For the stock settings though, including what the lower and upper bound carats show, it is solid data.

 

For those asking

Charging at 13.81 VDC
Parasitic Loss for Truck: 9 mA
Parasitic Loss for Ham Radio: 10 mA

 

That looks like a good charging voltage for standard lead acid.

The parasitic is a lot though. So much stuff trickling out a bit of current.

 

Same for me. Just a little more than 4 years and corrosion on the posts (of which I'd cleaned up twice before). Went with a larger sized Interstate. We'll see how it lasts; pretty hot and humid here in SE TX, too.

 

Are you measuring at the alternator or battery; getting any voltage loss due to excessive resistance between the alternator and battery?

Getting any A/C current at the battery from the alternator; bad diode(s)?

 

My issues was my crank amps. Battery functioned fine other than that.

 

I would have loved to get another, never skipped a beat with below 0F starts or after multiple winch pulls. Even when the motor got rebuilt and was high compression I never heard it strain.

 

"Toyota offers a complete line of top quality maintenance-free replacement batteries for Toyota vehicles. All Toyota batteries installed by a Toyota dealer are warranted for 24 months for parts and labor."

 

I bought an AGM from Pep Boys, $150.00 web order store pick and also received a $40 rebate, awesome
https://www.pepboys.com/champion-agm-battery-group-size-24f/product/2071574?quantity=1

 

At the battery.

 

I’m on my 3rd or 4th oem pos battery in the last 20 months. They have low af CCA. My girls civic came with a bigger battery

 

Y'all have me wondering when...

I'm still on the original OEM battery - 2016 Limited with over 80,000 miles.

Maybe at the 90,000 mile service I'll get a fancy Optima Yellow Top for her.

 

Why? I didn't change mine until I started seeing problems.

 

Interesting

I still got my original 2014 OEM battery with 110,000 miles and no problems so far.

 

I use the Red Top...i only wish Optima still made their batteries in the US, ever since Johnson Controls moved the plant to Mexico quality went south too...did I mention that I'm Canadian!

 

OEM battery since December 2016 and three NH winters. So far so good and truck is stock. This is some cold ass nights; go for a crank on EMS or fire calls and go. Sorry you have had troubles.

 

3 plus years and 76,000 miles in -38° weather in the winter and 107° on our vacation in Nevada. No garage for me. It sits outside in the brutal summer and in the freezing cold. Cranks no problem. Not one hesitation. The most my truck sits without hitting the button is less than 48 hrs.
I also don’t have any accessories except for my bed lights. It’s a 8 led pod bed light set hooked to my door switch. Well , my phone or I-pad is always charging!
I guess I better get a money jar together for a new 1. I guess I’m one of the few lucky ones.

 

Baja build for me . At first I was kind of bummed when I saw the sticker but it has been pretty good to me . I’ve put 60k + on it since the armor and tires 91k total . Still no real problems.
Had to put brakes on it and need some new tires .