vF Tuner for the 3.5L Tacoma

Heated blanket for the woman so she'll camp in the cold
also lights and charging batteries

edit: also we go out alone a lot and i try to cover my single point of failures

 

Camping mainly. I just have a single agm battery.

 

I didn't want the possibility of draining my one battery and getting stuck. You just never know.
Looking back, i should have done 1 lead acid starting battery and a secondary agm. too late now

 

I've an AGM 34R-700 because for a couple years I had a winch and in conjunction with lights, I didn't want my battery to give out. I no longer have the winch but since the battery sits in the stock tray it's convenient to just leave it there rather than downgrading.

 

Yeah winch on my end too. The power off 2 AGM's during a tug is crucial

 

I run a 12v fridge

well and the stock battery sucks.

 

Yes it does!

 

Newbie here, not yet purchased but have been reading entire thread to stay informed. Looking forward to this specifically for the AGM battery voltage boost feature; betting this one feature will make ovtuned much more popular when the general populace hears about it.

Wondering if there is a single tune file that contains all of the useful MT tunes listed in the quote above? Or will I have to search for and find every little tweak myself and hope I do them properly? Really only need the AGM boost but getting better throttle response and perhaps other candy would be great!

 

That is the good part. All of those features are part of OVT 2.0 SFOB. 2.0 Base has all of those except the Super Full Otto Cycle changes.

So if you get vF, you get all that and only need to edit the tune for the AGM charging.


Oh yeah. All 2.0 MT tunes have octane learning also. No need to flash tunes for whatever octane is available.


Enjoy!

 

That’s what the tune pack is for. Gives you a canned starting point.

otherwise you can start with the stock tune and adjust from there but that’s obviously a lot more work

 

@OVTune it looks like the ECU possibly has a charging
profile with all the below settings? Do we know what all the below phase duties do or are for? Just throwing 14.7 at an AGM is OK, but a proper charging profile would even be better. You are really only charging for a period of time then you would be providing float and that significantly lower. If you continue to provide the charging voltage you will actual over charge and can damage the batteries. I would guess the ECU may even be using under hood temperature as that is also important. 14.7 is the voltage that is need at 77 F and only need 13.4 at about 100 f. Is there a way to get what each of the parameters actual control? If there is a reference? I would do the research. I will not be setting the voltage to 14.7 and leaving it there as that may be more destructive than the current charge profile the ECU runs.

Phase duty 1 14.7
Phase duty 2 90
Phase duty 3 95
Phase duty 4 90
Phase duty 5 95
Phase duty 6 13.6 - 102.39
Phase duty 7 13.6 - 102.39
Phase duty 9 - 90
Phase duty 10 14.7 max 2 - 102.39
Disable control set to 0 - 3.57
Base phase additional additive - 0
Phase duty minimum - 67.84
Phase duty maximum 14.7 - 102.39

 

I'll dig into it deeper and see how and when each duty phase is selected. Will take some time.

Also we will be releasing a new version of vF tuner next week that has expanded TCU Tuning functionality for the AT trucks.

 

I didn't know what an "AstroAI AM33D" was until I looked it up. Now that I found it for $12.99 on Amazon I think I'd put more faith in @tonered's meter readings.

 

Electronics have come a long way in recent years. Straight up VM readings shouldn't be a problem for most any DMM. Regaring AstroAI, I have their digi pressure gauge in my version of @Shellshock 's deflator / inflator kit. It is a solid unit, IMHO.

 

Yeah i think a meter reading on the battery is the right way to go to get the most accurate numbers.
the data logger, my bluetooth monitor, torque, and my voltmeter all said something different, of course

 

I didn't know any of this was needed. I've been running AGM batteries in all my cars for years with no special treatment and never had an issue.

 

In 20+ years of camping I have never personally had a battery die, but I do keep a jump pack handheld behind the seatbelt just in case. Good for 2-3 jumps until it needs to be charged again. An AGM is much more reliable and cranks better in all weather conditions, especially the cold.

It’s like a $50-70 difference (at Costco - interstate brand) for the peace of mind in a battery

 

Unless you had accessories to draw down power then yeah an AGM as a starter would not show any real signs of being insufficient. Their best use is for draw down and recharge.

I have a CFX 95 (dual fridge/freezer), 2 electric blankets for the family, multiple devices requiring recharging, winch, on board air compressor, always on usb charge points, anytime rear/front cameras and a recordable camera system also running 24/7.

Having done the tune I did (only at idle) I'll be interested to observe it over the next 600 mile trip I'm doing this weekend. I understand that those of us with smart alternators... they actually only charge the battery when it is above 1800 RPM's. With OVtune's 105.1 I drive at 50MPH and it is only at 1500 rpm's at best. Those are just the speeds I can go on the roads I drive. I'll be on the highway blacktop for an hour or so and will be watching how the battery charges up during that time.

I have dual optima yellow tops group 35 with a max charge of 15V. My onboard volt meter showed me 14.5 at idle when the PID registered 14.653. So I'm reading about .15 volts less than actual on the volt meter. Helpful to know this as it gives you a realtime data point to gauge things while driving.

Thanks OVTune for the VFtuner capabilities. I do overclocking of CPU's, GPU's, Memory etc. all to say computer overclocking as a hobby. It's heaven and hell but when you nail the numbers and get it stable it's awesome!!

 

I have never seen the voltage output of my alternator higher than 14V or lower than 13.8V so its pretty steady at 13.9V most of the time, 105F in California or -20F in Minnesota. If I could get a steady 14.5V it would be safe to run on my AGM batteries I think.

 

So you have adjusted to below.....?

ECT set to 94 30 and up only.
Phase duty 1 14.7
Phase duty 2 90
Phase duty 3 95
Phase duty 4 90
Phase duty 5 95
Phase duty 6 13.6 - 102.39
Phase duty 7 13.6 - 102.39
Phase duty 9 - 90
Phase duty 10 14.7 max 2 - 102.39
Disable control set to 0 - 3.57
Base phase additional additive - 0
Phase duty minimum - 67.84
Phase duty maximum 14.7 - 102.39