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TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by 12TRDTacoma, Nov 8, 2017.

  1. Jun 5, 2020 at 4:35 AM
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Eesh
     
  2. Jun 5, 2020 at 6:17 AM
    loginfailed

    loginfailed Well-Known Member

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    Did y'all find anything yet?
     
  3. Jun 5, 2020 at 8:43 AM
    rheath08

    rheath08 Well-Known Member

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    @nudavinci64 have you checked compression?
    check your fuel pressure. the pressure regulator could be bad.
     
  4. Jun 5, 2020 at 9:48 AM
    zscott

    zscott Well-Known Member Vendor

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    @Roostfactor can you provide some details on what you did for the trans cooler supply lines with the CSF cooler? I picked one up to try and fit in my front bumper. With all of the factory lines being the small 3/8 -1/2" lines and the cooler having the -10AN fittings wondering where you did your reducers.
     
    Roostfactor likes this.
  5. Jun 5, 2020 at 10:54 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    HPT/justDSM tuned factory ecu, URD Headers, JFR Y-Pipe/l 3" exhaust, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Maggy SC (JFR ported), JFR ported lower intake manifold, 76mm tb, 2.5 pulley, 640cc injectors, CSF Radiator, custom electric fan wit Autocoolguy controller, JFR SC pulley wrap mod
    Let me take a few pics in a bit.

    The cooler would be better for us without the angled -10 fittings.

    I think I went from -10 to -6 reducers.

    I am using a Derale thermostat to CSF cooler then directly back to trans so no routing through radiator.

    My trans hasnt been over 175°F but havent towed in summer.
     
  6. Jun 5, 2020 at 10:58 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    HPT/justDSM tuned factory ecu, URD Headers, JFR Y-Pipe/l 3" exhaust, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Maggy SC (JFR ported), JFR ported lower intake manifold, 76mm tb, 2.5 pulley, 640cc injectors, CSF Radiator, custom electric fan wit Autocoolguy controller, JFR SC pulley wrap mod
    I forget more test results then I remember!
    Should probably write my results down.
     
    DocME[QUOTED] likes this.
  7. Jun 5, 2020 at 11:01 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    HPT/justDSM tuned factory ecu, URD Headers, JFR Y-Pipe/l 3" exhaust, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Maggy SC (JFR ported), JFR ported lower intake manifold, 76mm tb, 2.5 pulley, 640cc injectors, CSF Radiator, custom electric fan wit Autocoolguy controller, JFR SC pulley wrap mod
    And hyperutectic pistons!
     
  8. Jun 5, 2020 at 11:03 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    HPT/justDSM tuned factory ecu, URD Headers, JFR Y-Pipe/l 3" exhaust, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Maggy SC (JFR ported), JFR ported lower intake manifold, 76mm tb, 2.5 pulley, 640cc injectors, CSF Radiator, custom electric fan wit Autocoolguy controller, JFR SC pulley wrap mod
    I have sooo many stock parts in boxes!
     
  9. Jun 5, 2020 at 11:06 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    HPT/justDSM tuned factory ecu, URD Headers, JFR Y-Pipe/l 3" exhaust, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Maggy SC (JFR ported), JFR ported lower intake manifold, 76mm tb, 2.5 pulley, 640cc injectors, CSF Radiator, custom electric fan wit Autocoolguy controller, JFR SC pulley wrap mod
    It's my plan when I change my fuel config.

    Gotta fab some y-pipes and add my water/meth kit first.
     
  10. Jun 5, 2020 at 11:08 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    HPT/justDSM tuned factory ecu, URD Headers, JFR Y-Pipe/l 3" exhaust, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Maggy SC (JFR ported), JFR ported lower intake manifold, 76mm tb, 2.5 pulley, 640cc injectors, CSF Radiator, custom electric fan wit Autocoolguy controller, JFR SC pulley wrap mod
    If one can afford the vehicles, they can probably afford the air conditioned large shop with lifts to stack stores cars.

    I'm definitely not part of the .001.
     
  11. Jun 5, 2020 at 11:26 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    Definitely see @JustDSM and pay the money for him to tune your truck.

    I'm in Wichita Falls and can help you with some of the other stuff if you want to make the drive.

    Roost
     
  12. Jun 5, 2020 at 11:29 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    ThomasMore66 likes this.
  13. Jun 5, 2020 at 11:42 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    See if your sc bypass valve is opening.

    Stand at passenger side looking at bypass lever and have someone start truck.
    Bypass should quickly move from closed to open due to engine vacuum.
     
    nudavinci64[QUOTED] and Torspd like this.
  14. Jun 5, 2020 at 12:43 PM
    zscott

    zscott Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Cool thanks. I've got a mishimoto thermostat I'm going to plumb in. Haven't decided if I will route through the radiator as well or not. The Mishimoto thermostat has -10 fittings as well so I may just do between the cooler and the thermostat and then reduce between the thermostat and trans.

    Hoping this install helps out my temps. Transmission still creeps up into the 190-200 range on good climbs or in 4wd going slow. When I tow it goes even higher. Hoping this cooler plus the new location will help keep things cooler and free up the space infront of the radiator, sc cooler, and ac condensor, so I get more air flow there too.

    What is your derale thermostat set to? My mishimoto housing came with a 185 degree and a 160 degree interchangeble thermostat.
     
  15. Jun 5, 2020 at 1:08 PM
    EchoLake

    EchoLake Well-Known Member

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    Magnuson Supercharger, Speedhut AFR and Boost Gauges, TRD ECU Reflash, Factory Nav Unit, TRD Skidplate, VIP alarm, 265/75R16 Cooper Discoverer ATP, 1" KSP Spacers, hub centric (hold comments lol), TRD Pro Grill, Raptor Lights on with ignition. Upcoming - purchased, not yet installed: Body matched rear bumper (rattle can), Kicker Hideaway, JL Audio 6x9 components w/80Hz Bass Blockers, Hellwig anti-roll bar, TRD Short Shifter, Knock-off TRD Shifter (non-Qball), black throwback plates. Plans: more.
    Found a spot on the driveway this morning and looks like I have a coolant leak from the driver side radiator hose, and have a few questions for you guys before calling the installer.
    In #1 the driver side hose looks like it doesn't make a good connection to the radiator tube(?) very well, specifically where the red arrow is pointing. It looks like there is a notch or something causing the leak? Is this how it is supposed to connect?
    In #2 where the same hose connects to what looks like a junction, looks like there is a gap, like it needs to move up another 1/2" or so, this doesn't seem normal, is it?
    In #3 I'm thinking that oil is just from prefilling the oil filter before installing and since it has to be inverted some inevitably leaked out before it was tightened, or excess dripped from lubricating the ring before installing. Oil level is normal. Thoughts?
    Any and all help appreciated.
    Evidentally I can't post photos with Google photos.. Give me a sec..
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    hose_from_radiator.jpg
    hose_gap.jpg
    oil_filter.jpg
     
  16. Jun 5, 2020 at 1:15 PM
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    In that first pic, id replace the hose clamp with an oem style spring clamp. Also looks like it was cut way too short, so you'll likely need to replace that too. The hose should seat all the way against the notch on the t-stat housing in pic 2 and all the way on the radiator outlet in pic 1

    Heres a pic of mine for reference
    IMG_3915.jpg
     
    DocME and EchoLake[QUOTED] like this.
  17. Jun 5, 2020 at 1:16 PM
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    #3 pic is normal. I have a little residue in mine there too from the last change, its hard to get it all cleaned out of there. Just make sure the filter is snug and its not leaking
     
  18. Jun 5, 2020 at 1:24 PM
    EchoLake

    EchoLake Well-Known Member

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    @BassAckwards Cool thanks for the reply. OK so it's not like they were supposed to use a special connector, the hose just connects directly? So you think the leak is caused by the clamp style? Looking at it it seems odd that the tube (male end) has that notch, what is going on with that? Seems like it would leak for sure even with a spring clamp, but I'm a computer nerd, I rarely work on cars.
    Thanks for confirming the hose was cut too short. Missed the part about it seating up to the radiator outlet. Looks like I'll just see if I can get a new hose. Installer is in another town.
    Also thanks for the info re the oil filter.
     
    BassAckwards[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. Jun 5, 2020 at 1:25 PM
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    I am fairly confident the hose is cut way too short, and that is why it's leaking, because it's not seated all the way on the rad. It also isn't seated all the way on the t-stat housing either.. best to replace that before it causes bigger issues

    Yes the hose should just slide right on both the t-stat housing and the rad. Spring clamps should be used and not hose clamps imo. They are a pain in the ass to put on, which is why they probably threw the hose clamps on
     
    EchoLake[QUOTED] likes this.
  20. Jun 5, 2020 at 1:29 PM
    EchoLake

    EchoLake Well-Known Member

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    @BassAckwards Thank you for the info, much appreciated. Yeah, length makes sense. I'll grab an OEM hose and cut as per the install manual instructions and install with spring clamps.
     
    BassAckwards[QUOTED] likes this.

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