TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

this was not a blind test. It was something I had thought about prior to the S/C after I installed the front brakes. Bypass valve seems fine. I get vacuum and boost etc at least seems to doing its job.

 

im betting its a mechanical issue. if the computer could sense it wouldnt it be simple for @JustDSM to see?

 

sexy!

 

get a thermal laser tester. find a local fella with a truck. follow each other for 5min and pull over to compare caliper temps. just an idea.

 

His logs don’t show anything outside the norm.

He’s got the same baseline tune that @Murphinator And others rocks with success. The injectors are scaled in line with @TRON values, as he was the one who proofed the 2D mapping values for the strategy used in our ECU. The intake data is OEM Toyota FJ.

Long story short, there’s nothing in the tune. My suggestion as it is for most folks is to go back to as close to stock as reasonably possible and eliminate as many variables as possible to aide in troubleshooting and isolation of the “problem”. @12TRDTacoma knows my method

 

I agree with the method. after driving @SUMOTNK truck aside from other things it seemed to have less drag so was looking into brakes which I had some ideas before. I’ll dig out those injectors and we can start from there.

 

get side by side with a tacoma going the same speed. let off the gas and see if there is noticable difference in deceleration.

 

Good point. figured would be easy to rule out brakes.

 

unless, same gear ratio and tires then not a good measure. Traditionally wilwoods require adjustments, ut not sure of the aero models.

 

i was just spitballin'. see if a similar truck does much better.

 

my thought was if something was drastcally wrong a somewhat similar measure would work for feedback.

 

What type of adjustments have you seen?

 

Not necessarily. He has A LOT of information available, but it's not always going to tell him if something is immediately wrong. Even me when diagnosing, often computer data is immediately great reference, but it serves only as a starting reference point and physical testing still is required.

@nudavinci64 before you go pulling stuff off those tests I mentioned earlier re quick and dirty.

https://youtu.be/cHghZfrfEbQ

 

Is there a way to do that test without pulling the blower off? thanks for the video. def an easy test with it off. How much boost should I expect on the 2.8 in general not considering all the other stuff?

 

Expecting to see boost doesn't tell the whole story sometimes. You could be hitting 8.5 or you may see an average of about 6.8- 7.3 like I am, but if you are leaking it out under boost you may not see that.

You can check it when you start up the truck. You will see the arm move once it gets into idle. Have someone start the truck while you are hanging over the blower physically looking at it. If it doesn't do that you got an issue going on in the valve. If you have someone rev it up to intentionally make it boost while at idle you should be able to see the valve move as well. A vacuum test like what you saw in the video should be the next test if it looks okay with those tests.

You can do it by pulling the hose off and sucking on it while you check what you need to. That boost valve is typical to GM and Ford but ours only has one nipple as to theirs has two. The method is similar in testing in theory though.. so.

 

Ok just wanted to get an idea. I am hitting a solid 8 at peak boost right now. ill see if the wife will help me run that test.

 

pushrod, pedal, proportioning valve. But you may not have messed with any of that. There is an adjusting tips section on their website IIRC

 

Keep me posted as to what you like and don't like about the Kenda's. They are 1 of 2 tires that come in 35x10.50R17. And I don't want a 12.50 wide. But do want 35's.

 

@SUMOTNK also has them. only drove it for a short time yesterday but the truck felt good.

 

Thanks, also when you test the bypass. We only have one nipple, but you will see that even with the old one he says is good on the one side, I would say it is not. Watch how far the rod goes before it does stop and hold. That is the difference mine had. The old one let out a long ways and then did hold about 5mm from the end of the stroke. The new one let out about 5mm and then held. Not knowing how it is built on the inside but I feel like there are layers of the diaphragm and the old one would hold just a bit after the layers sealed themselves or something. But the new one held at a much higher level. I can go take a video or pictures to show you as well. Except I don't have the new one to show the difference.