Long Travel BS Thread

if it was mine, cut it about 8"/9" in cap it with 1/8" plate and run a 1.75" tube level with the frame top for the frame there back. with a triangle tube gusset at 45 deg to the bottom of the remaining frame
just bump it an inch or so short and it shouldn't hit

sleeve, notch, and rosette weld the tube hitch structure back on

 

Wow. Hmm. If you wanted to keep the frame I’d just weld in some 3/16 on the inside of the frame over the hole plus get some outer frame reinforcement plates TG sells or make your own then box it from the gas tank back. I’m mostly boxed in back to about the gas tank x member and if I had more time I’d go all the way down to where it’s boxed in from the factory. Only if you want to keep the frame.

If you want to keep the bed you don’t have to keep the frame like @SanClemTaco is saying but obviously you’d have to make mounts for the bed bolts then. I’m considering drilling out through the bed in the four bolt hole locations to just drop 1/2” or 9/16” bolts down through to the mounts like 2nd gens do. If you’re going to be making a whole new rear frame you could consider that too.

 

Your first idea is what I was originally thinking, basically add support to the inside and plate the outside. Regardless Im trying not to go any deeper than 12" from the rear of the frame, thats where theres a seam for the shackle pivot plate. That way the rest of the frame and bed mounts are still in place, just the rear two would have to be rear "made".

Also, who runs 12" shacks thru-frame and who runs them over? TC recommends through, to me it looks weird with the leafs so flat compared to with the 9's in the same spot..I know it affects ride height, but any other reason to go over frame?

 

You can slide a 4x2 into the factory frame if you cut far enough forward

 

Is that thing still for sale?

 

Go above the frame - @Anthony250 runs them that way and has good ride height with e30 hd leafs that match his lift spindles. I’ve got the same setup and e30 regular leafs with some reverse rake with no lift spindles. That’s weird TC recommends through the frame. They have instructions on how to run them above the frame on here. I’d see what other people say but I’d imagine that would be the consensus.

 

Is that your 4R?

 

For a first gen 12" they show through, and under for 9". I may just relocate it under the frame and call it a day. The F67's I have are pretty old and the truck definitely sits 1-2" higher with the temporary 12" I made. Considering how low it sits with normal weight/load I think going under with 9's will give it the same lift.

I'm just curious if theres any benefit Im missing on running longer shackles. I figure longer would move less throughout the cycle, and should give a softer ride due to less progressive curve?? Is that correct?

https://www.chaosfab.com/accessories/1996-2004-Tacoma-9-inch-Chromoly-Shackles-40900

 

Yes sir




1” square tube in place only to prevent warping during full weld

 

Very cool, was the main goal for that to clear coilovers?

 

Yes, and greatly improve departure angle.

 

Just do 12” over the frame and call it a day, test an proven to be best method.

 

Did you gain bump travel from axle to frame clearance?

 

Yes, but my upper links are into the rear seats currently. That’s limiting the up.

Can kind of see here before I cut the frame out

 

Sick, I have similar goals, keep posting updates. Fuel cell in the rear?

 

Where do you guys buy all tabs, gussets and whatnost?

 

Ruffstuff, low range off-road, Kartek, yotamasters, eBay - whenever has exactly what I’m looking for at the lowest price haha.

 

Kartek/yotamasters are kinda local but time is limited to go shoping there. I was checking ruffstuff.

 

https://www.aa-mfg.com/

They get you on shipping but it's pretty cheap when you order more than a few. Plus if you sign up for their emails they have free shipping days and coupons. Then is the time to stock up.

 

Nexgen. Kartek is open 7 days