What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Jordan's had Bfgs so he's used to it.

 

Pretty much anything oily or carbony. At work if we have to work an an aluminum intake manifold we just soak it in a bucket of the stuff and it comes out new. Alternately if you want to avoid dangerous chemicals you can soak it in marvel mystery oil or atf

 

Yeah I don't mind strong stuff, but I don't have a good way to dispose of it afterwards.

I got the lower manifold looking pretty good with a toothbrush and dishwasher detergent, then soaked it for a bit and let it dry. The upper is still in process, and I'm afraid to do too much cleaning on the throttle body having heard of idles speed issues that I don't want to diagnose right now.

 

Looks awesome!

how tough was in the install? looking at getting a set of those as soon as i've got my canopy finished up and some money saved for the timing belt.

 

great! forgive me for my ignorance but do you need a ball joint press to install the JBA UCAs? I know you need one to do the uniball ones for pressing out the OE joint and installing a slug adapter, but i've had trouble finding info on the non-uniball ones.

 

true

 

STT Pro's. They are kinda heavy though. Shipping label said 60lbs each I think?

 

With any luck, I should get it running again this month. Yaay. Next step - figure out where these bolts go, find places for all the hoses and plugs, and then check them.

 

this is pretty standard for a 33” M/T tire. My falken Wild peaks weight in that range as well (285/75/16).

 

Took my topper off, removed all of the windows and roof rack, sanded and got it ready to apply Raptor Liner tomorrow. Looks to be a nice cool, low humidity day, so should be great for painting.

 

OEM: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM...ngine-Oil-Filler-Cap-1218075021-/322354106202
+5 hp: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRD-Engine...Corolla-Sienna/373025536620?fits=Model:Tacoma

I know the year doesn't match and the engine size doesn't match and the make/model doesn't match but they fit. I bought the +5 hp one and it fits perfect. Actually felt pretty well built. It's billet aluminum. I could not see spending over $50 on an oil filler cap to get the legit TRD one...

 

Continuing the rust prevention project, the bed was pulled off this weekend. Spent a good part of the day grinding, brushing, cursing, contorting, and otherwise trying to knock off as much loose rust as possible from every spot I could reach. Powerwasher and a air wand was very useful for the nooks and crannies. I used Eastwood internal frame coating for the boxed front sections of the frame, but the stuff sprays so quickly, I wasn't able to finish the whole thing with just two cans.

Before removing loose rust:


I was alarmed by how much rust flakes there were, so about two weeks ago I ordered some CBI frame reinforcement plates to reinforce the already weak sections that were probably even weaker from all the rust. I was surprised when the plates showed up this weekend, the website said they had a 12 week lead time. Much easier to weld while I had the bed off. After welding it out, I prepped the bare metal by letting it rust lightly so the rust treatment sticks to it better. Washed down everything with degreaser and now she's all ready for Chassis Saver.

 

Installed mcm fab UCA's and my 285/70/17 falken wildpeaks on black rihno Bantams. In the shop for an alignment, oil change, and smoke test to diagnose the P0446 code ( yes I checked the gas cap)

 

Looks professional!

 

Curious, what did you paint the frame with?

 

I’m waiting on some tools and a few parts from ECGS that will be here tomorrow. Trying to get everything prepped so when the tools show up, I’m ready to dive into the actual regear and locker install. I got the rear diff out and the mating surfaces cleaned up yesterday.

Going to get the front out today, and work on routing my trans and tcase breathers to right above the brake booster.

I pulled my trans for a noisy clutch release bearing that should be here tomorrow. Going to replace the pilot bearing while I’m in there the clutch only has 9,500 miles on it, otherwise I’d be throwing a heavy clutch in it. My output seal on the trans was leaking too and the seal was a little messed up. Probably my fault from last years transmission input shaft debacle. I’ve been running Lucas 85/140 in my rear end and think I’m going to start running it in the rest of the gear boxes. Most of my driving in this vehicle has become lugging in 4 lo, 1st gear and there’s been a lot of gear noise associated with that under 750 rpm. The condition of the gear oil upon draining made me feel that I’ve had too much load on it at low rpm. Hoping that the combination of 5.29’s and 85/140 help out with that! (Maybe I just need to hurry up and finish sourcing parts for my dual case) Going to up my oil change intervals too for the gear boxes.

 

I just used Rust-Oleum oil based black role on. I don't have to deal with rust like on the east coast. Just wanted cover up the bare metal

 

Looks good man! How quick did those arms ship from MCM?

 

I ordered them April 22. Shipped May 22. Then arrived the 3rd of June
I know he hadn't had them built yet, almost build to order, then they got stuck at a UPS facility due to Corona.

 

You might consider replacing the rear main seal why you have the transmission off.