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TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by 12TRDTacoma, Nov 8, 2017.

  1. Jun 8, 2020 at 6:23 PM
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Boosted Money Pit....
    makes sense. Ill just need to pull the skid off then.
     
  2. Jun 8, 2020 at 6:24 PM
    rheath08

    rheath08 Well-Known Member

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    converted AWD, RC62f swap, Supercharged
    there is a notch in the fan clutch that will allow you to rotate the ratchet far enough to get the belt loose from the pullies.
     
  3. Jun 8, 2020 at 6:25 PM
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Boosted Money Pit....
    ill check that out as well. I was hoping I didn't have to pull all the stuff again to do this
     
  4. Jun 8, 2020 at 6:28 PM
    rheath08

    rheath08 Well-Known Member

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    converted AWD, RC62f swap, Supercharged
    can one of you fine gentlemen post up a link for the water pump brackets again? it dropped off the list at the bottom. i have joined the winch bummer crew. lmao!!
     
  5. Jun 8, 2020 at 6:38 PM
    loginfailed

    loginfailed Well-Known Member

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    This is what I do. ^
     
  6. Jun 8, 2020 at 6:40 PM
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Boosted
    Did you test what you needed to before reaching this point?
     
  7. Jun 8, 2020 at 6:56 PM
    Kini

    Kini Well-Known Member

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    Drain most of the coolant from the S/C bottle. Turkey baster works for me or a large cheap syringe. Then take one of S/C coolant hoses off, lift it up so it drains most of the fluid back to bottle, plug it with a plug, (these work great for a bunch of things) https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81lj0KNIE4L._AC_SL1500_.jpg Rinse, repeat, on other hose. Bag the ends and tape it securely to keep the plugs from working loose. Tie it up against the hood with wire or cordage out of the way of your work area.. Check bottle after draining hoses and every now and then, after S/C removal/install. After a few weeks, while waiting on parts, I've found that some coolant will make it's way back into the bottle from intercooler hoses,
     
    nudavinci64[QUOTED] and JustDSM like this.
  8. Jun 9, 2020 at 7:41 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    HPT/justDSM tuned factory ecu, URD Headers, JFR Y-Pipe/l 3" exhaust, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Maggy SC (JFR ported), JFR ported lower intake manifold, 76mm tb, 2.5 pulley, 640cc injectors, CSF Radiator, custom electric fan wit Autocoolguy controller, JFR SC pulley wrap mod
    I use this from the top. It's a cheap tool I bent as needed to fit our application.
    After I got the angle figured out, I taped the two joints together because.....cheap tool.

    Works like a champ though!
     
  9. Jun 9, 2020 at 8:47 AM
    loginfailed

    loginfailed Well-Known Member

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    Those who know whats up, do just like @Roostfactor describes here. I have a several "custom" tools I've grinded/bent/modded to fit certain situations. Harbor Freight is a good source for tools to use for this purpose.
     
  10. Jun 9, 2020 at 8:52 AM
    Jpiskura

    Jpiskura Well-Known Member

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    So, I have been scrolling through a ton of pages on here, I cannot and do not have the time to read through 1438 pages.. LOL, just hoping to get a couple newb questions answered. I have a 2013 Sport and am looking to put a SC on it, and from what I can tell I will be purchasing a Magnuson. If I decide to drop the pully down a size right off the rip, a 2.8 will be my best option..? What supporting mods will I NEED, not every single mod is needed, but what will I need to support that SC with a 2.8 pulley, say if I went to Magnuson purchased the SC and went to URD and got a 2.8 pulley..? Thank you guys very much in advance!
     
  11. Jun 9, 2020 at 9:03 AM
    zippsub9

    zippsub9 Well-Known Member

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    Shit bolted onto other shit, and junk.
    fuel pump. AEM or Wallbro. URD has both. Good to go on everything else.

    Replace NEED with prudent.
     
  12. Jun 9, 2020 at 9:06 AM
    findingthingsout

    findingthingsout Well-Known Member

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    Boost, armor, lights, big tires, no savings.
    I always suggest doing fewer steps. The SC kit includes a lot of new parts and opportunity for errors. I'd stick with the kit and have the fuel pump/ kit on hand for install post success of SC install. Once up and running. Throw in the fuel pump, verify all is well. Then start the smaller pulley path, of course go with the quick change hub to satisfy the addiction. Boost on!
     
  13. Jun 9, 2020 at 9:12 AM
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    HPT/justDSM tuned factory ecu, URD Headers, JFR Y-Pipe/l 3" exhaust, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Maggy SC (JFR ported), JFR ported lower intake manifold, 76mm tb, 2.5 pulley, 640cc injectors, CSF Radiator, custom electric fan wit Autocoolguy controller, JFR SC pulley wrap mod
    READ POST #1 to get a feel.

    I like your thinking @findingthingsout.

    I did fuel pump weeks before sc install to ensure a successful install.

    Quick change pulley for sure!

    AFR gauge

    @JustDSM tune......you dont want the Bullydog tuner.
     
  14. Jun 9, 2020 at 9:13 AM
    loginfailed

    loginfailed Well-Known Member

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    • DO NOT buy the kit that comes with a Bully Dog tuner. Instead go find a dealer that will install the TRD tune for you. If you listen to no other advice, this is the one thing you want to listen to. If you cant find a dealer to do it, contact @JustDSM or @o0opackersfano0o
    • Instead of the URD pulley, get a quick change pulley from Smoothflow (info in the first post of this thread) then you can change pulley sizes easily later on if you decide to.
    • IF you are going to upgrade the pulley AT ALL, upgrade the fuel pump
    • Not absolutely necessary to get going, but HIGHLY recommended to get an HP Tuners MPVI2 and 4 credits. This will net you the best possible performance out of your investment. Contact @JustDSM for help with a tune.
    • All the rest of the stuff you can do later. Plenty of helpful people here to add their suggestions or answer any questions you have along the way.
    Welcome to the club!
     
    Skootter14, DocME, RyanL and 6 others like this.
  15. Jun 9, 2020 at 9:21 AM
    loginfailed

    loginfailed Well-Known Member

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    :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

    I totally agree with this! If you do a bunch of stuff at once and have some sort of technical issue, it is more difficult to diagnose what change caused it.
     
    Roostfactor and Jpiskura like this.
  16. Jun 9, 2020 at 9:41 AM
    Jpiskura

    Jpiskura Well-Known Member

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    Awesome! Thank you guys very much for the info, when @loginfailed says 4 credits.. what exactly does that mean..?
     
    Roostfactor and loginfailed like this.
  17. Jun 9, 2020 at 9:43 AM
    Jpiskura

    Jpiskura Well-Known Member

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    Also... when I pulled the fuel pump in my WRX, it was a more or less easily accessible Drop in, in the tank. Where are the fuel pumps located in these tacos?
     
  18. Jun 9, 2020 at 9:49 AM
    loginfailed

    loginfailed Well-Known Member

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    This is sort of like a licensing fee to tune a particular vehicle. You buy the MPVI2 and it can be used on any supported vehicle. But each vehicle requires its own license. Tacomas are 4 credits.

    MPVI2 is $299.99
    One credit is $49.99

    So for a Tacoma you would be at around $500

    cart.jpg


    See:
    https://www.hptuners.com/vehicles/

    Capture.jpg

    I purchased directly from HP Tuners. There are other places you can get a little better price if you look around a bit.
     
  19. Jun 9, 2020 at 9:51 AM
    loginfailed

    loginfailed Well-Known Member

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    On a DCSB you have to drop the tank out the bottom of the truck, at least that is how I did it.
     
    Jpiskura[QUOTED] likes this.
  20. Jun 9, 2020 at 9:52 AM
    JustDSM

    JustDSM Oderint Dum Metuant

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    You can also send me the ECU and I can tune it on the bench harness for $250 versus having to buy the MPVI2 (if you're not into tuning yourself)
     

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