All Things Bikes and Tacos! (...and every vehicle imaginable)

I think the 543mm axle-to-crown at 130mm travel might work well enough on the Stache, but it won't fit anything larger than 29x2.5. Lame.

The lack of a 29+ version is a little annoying, for sure.

 

Pretty much everyone I ride with runs Aggressor DD rear and Assegai or DHF front in EXO. The DD casing is solid for everything between the Wasatch to Moab/St. G.

 

I've always been happy with the dual compound DHF/DHR2 combo. The 3C ones wear too fast for my liking. Bellingham to Pisgah and I never really wished I had anything different for the enduro bike.

Now the chupacabras on my Stache. Great XC ripper tire, but if I have to get on the brakes in a hurry, the back will kick out 30* every time.

 

Anyone interested in a 2020 X2, 210x55? Came stock on my Ripmo I just got a couple weeks ago but it’s too much shock for my skill level so I’m going to bump down to a dpx2.

 

3C fronts for me. I think it has a more damp ride along with better traction vs. the dual compound. I do typically kill the shoulder lugs before the middle tread wears on the 3C’s though. DC rear tires. Usually go through 2 sets of tires a year for me.

 

No but I have a DPX2 in that size if you’re interested

 

How much and how old is it? I have one on order from pro bike supply for 475.

 

It's off my 2020 SB130, just serviced. $325.

 

DUDE you're going to love it . The single best improvements for bike control that can be bought in my opinion
Pedals like a dumptruck tho

 

It'll feel than much different than the DHF?

 

Yes. Have you ever noticed the DHF deadspot at a certain lean angle? Think something like a flat berm exit when the bike will get loose for a second between tread blocks


That sipe helps maintain sorta speed but definitely can be sketchy on a fast turn as the bike lays over. The Ass Daddy just accepts the slowness and provides traction the whole time

 

alright noob question...I think I'm just not googling/youtubing the right words either...

how do I "tighten" my hydraulic brakes? when I search I only come across pad adjustment, which isn't what I want. What I mean is, I feel like I have to pull my brake levers farther than I want to...I want to be able to pull just ever so slightly with 1 finger. I can do it with one finger, it just feels like way too much of a pull to get full stopping power. Is this more fluid, bleed the brakes, etc? "shorten the pull" may be the right terminology?

 

Those are all inter-related. A lot of this depends on the quality of your brakes, too. The new Guide R brakes have a famously vague bite point dependant on the bleed. One of my favorite moves is "over-bleeding" the system. Remove the pads, start bleeding, and allow the pistons to extend (no bleed block). Obviously don't do this too much but this would effectively allow the pads to compress on the rotor sooner, thus quicker engagement

 

is this the only way? there's no "adjustment" on the lever I just don't know about? I do have the Guide R's.

 

Guide RSCs have a little adjuster that you can change the bite point. Maybe see if you can source the lever assemblies and swap those out? The rest of the components are the same.

 

hm, idk if I want to go swapping parts just yet when these function! I'll probably try what @honda50r suggested....and let the guys check it out in NC..

It could be in my head lol.

 

Reach adjustment and a good bleed. I don’t think those have contact point adjustments so those are your options haha.

Sometimes when the reach is closest to the bars it can feel like there is no power since you can’t get enough lever travel before you hit the grips.

 

Reach adjustment as far as just moving the lever for my fingers?

If you watched my last video I do feel like I need to adjust the position of stuff for my right hand. I think I'm actually going to try putting the brake lever on the "inside" of my shift assembly so that my index finger will be more on the end of the brake lever...

 

There should be a knob on your brakes that determine how far the lever is from the bar. I usually squeeze the brake and then turn the knob (Allen key into my situation) until I like how it feels. I’m running shimanos right now so it might be a little different for you.

As far as the actual position you should 100% try moving it so your index finger is at the very end of the lever. Right where the last bend is. It’s personal preference but that is where you’ll get the most leverage. If you’re really crazy some people brake with their middle finger though haha.

 

Reach and free stroke adjustment are two different things but they affect each other. Video below explains it well, I had Sram brakes so all my bikes have Shimano, but the principals should be the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0uSTtDWbI8