Pink or Red Coolant

So which is it. Lots of reading on color and pre 2004. 2013 4.0 here with 106k. Recently purchased in Feb. Has pink and color still looks very pink. Is it time to drain and fill? Some say at 150k.

 

It's gonna cost you 25$. Pretty cheap investment for the next 100k.

 

Pink

 

From what I understand, they are identical, except the pink is already diluted. I prefer to dilute it myself with distilled water.

 

cap is yellow, coolant is pink
https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota-5...ifeAntifreezeCoolant/69276658/00272SLLC2.html

 

Neither. Go green. The universal green. For example the SuperTech concentrate is formulated to replace all coolant colors and types. It's what I've always used to replace OEM coolant in all my Toyota vehicles, including the Lexus. Never had coolant issues. When I replaced the water pump in the Lexus ES350 at 230K, I took a good look inside the block for any signs the green coolant might be causing premature wear or insides to rust - didn't find anything suspicious. Will continue to use green - if you follow a reputable manufacturers directions, you can't go wrong. This being said, if under warranty, stick to recommended coolants just so Toyota wont play the blame game if something goes wrong.

 

I have green in my 1986 22re and 1990 3.0 both motor homes. Just got home from dealer while in town and got 2 gallons of the pink. $25 per gallon 50/50 mix. Now to do the drain and fill. I am sure I will find a thread here that will guide the process.

 

From what I have learned that is incorrect. The pink has a different formula than red.

 

there’s one block drain on each side. By the starter and under the manifold on the passenger. They are a petcock I think 8 or 10 mm fitting. And drain the radiator. It’s quite simple.

 

If you do some digging on the Internet you can find the Toyota pink for pretty cheap, I got my for $15-16 (Which is pretty close to the Valvoline Zerex stuff at Walmart) at my dealer. I purchased on “parts dot Toyota dot com” and then did the local pickup. The new SLLC (Pink) containers actually have a pink cap now instead of the old yellow cap you see when you google search, guess they’re just still using the old photos.

 

Going to do a drain my truck has 106k. Seems like the thing to do based from other members posts. Seems simple or not as involved as block drain and getting air trapped in the system.

 

The change intervals are different between the two. They are not the same.
Lot's of reading here
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1782906/1

 

I really like Toyota coolant. I have used the red in many older vehicles (including GM, ford, Subaru an Toyota) with no issues. In fact in my 01 Subaru I have noticed it tends to run cooler than when it had green coolant from the previous owner. I did a timing belt change as the pump was leaking, the previous water pump was an OEM pump (installed when the headgaskets were done a few years prior by the previous owners mechanic) and I installed an OEM pump so it should be the same in theory if the coolanr was the only real change. In newer vehicles I like the Pink stuff. It's worth it when you can afford it. I have seen in the past that "green" coolant has been identified as a possible cause for early water pump failures in the 4.7L V-8 that is in the older tundras/4runner/seqouia/etc. And yes, that is using an OEM water pump when doing a timing belt.

Another fantastic Toyota fluid is Toyota High-Performance Penetrating Lubricant. One of the best penetrating oils I have used!!!

Something many people overlook in service is a Brake Fluid Flush. It's surprising how bad brake fluid gets over the years. On top of that brake fluid is Hydroscopic, meaning it attracts water. That means in moist environments or places with large temperature swings your brake fluid will degrade and the boiling temperature is reduced, thus making emergency stopping distances longer as the fluid boils and is not giving proper pressure.