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150K Today

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by robstercraw, Dec 7, 2019.

  1. Dec 7, 2019 at 6:17 PM
    #1
    robstercraw

    robstercraw [OP] Member

    Joined:
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    Austin, Texas
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tacoma TRD Off Road
    Just turned 150K on my 2006 4x4 off road. Knock on wood, never had any trouble with my baby. I've done routine maintenance up to now. Plugs every 30-40k and changed my differential oil twice. I also changed the tie rod.

    Now that I've turned 150k Im ready to invest in some real preventative maintenance. I've checked the owners manual maintenance suggestions, but really wanted some input from ya'll.
    What do you guys think of the AT fluid change or flush? I dont tow and no issueds with my transmission so im not sure I should even do it. Can ya'll give me the top 3 things I should do? Plugs are a given, but what else are ya'll thinking.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2019
    REDdawn6 and Rick's 2012 like this.
  2. Dec 8, 2019 at 1:09 AM
    #2
    muddog321

    muddog321 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    FL
    Vehicle:
    09 Tacoma DCSB 4wd TRD Off-Road w/e-locker Pyrite Mica
    TW 1-piece driveshaft with 1310 u-joints All Pro and Budbuilt skid plates OME Dakar rear springs 3" with 5100 5100 front set at 1.75" (3rd groove up) with stock springs Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/70R16 2018 TRD Offroad wheels 16x7J with +25mm offset Powerstop rotors with Z36 pads and rebuilt with OEM caliper kit Complete rebuilt rear brakes drums, shoes, springs, wheel cylinders Rebuilt rear diff with Yukon 3.73 ring/pinion Denso 130A rebuilt alternator AGM 24F Battery New OEM idlers and tensioner assembly New AC compressor New PS hose and flushed Walker SS Quiet Flow muffler Denso Iridium long life plugs #3421 (SK20HR11) OEM coolant, cap, and thermostat NAPA CV axles and new seals ECGS bushing Rhino front guard Shortened mud flaps Alziria Black Tail Lights Nilight Headlights X-Bull Traction Boards Maaco full single stage paint job 2023 Nat CV to Knuckle seals 710573 New SKF wheel bearings/hubs BR930978 New Moog stabilizer links K80946 & 948 New MOOG K80819 Suspension Stabilizer Bar Bushing 28mm New Dorman rear wheel bearings using complete axles 926-139 & 140 New Radiator support bushings Dorman 924-267 (front body mounts)
    My 2009 is at 155k so same boat as you.
    As for trans fluid that question has a crap load of opinions you can read. I did it at 100k shifted better and converter lock up was firmer so you decide.
    You did both diffs but don't forget to change the transfer case oil too. Assume you did coolant and opened the 2 block drains. Check the hoses mine are still firm.
    Next for me is the PS hose set and a refill as corroded lines (down on bottom) so new from Rockauto about $75.
    I have pushed my luck on all 3 idler pulleys and the tensioner so OEM ones for those at about $300 - no rebuilding bearings for me.
    While down there I am going to put a rebuild Denso 130A alternator in about $125 from Carid. New belt also.
    I do long trips so decided cost over breakdown on the road won out for my peace of mind.

    I already did the brakes and changed to stainless braided hoses a few years ago so look at the stock hose condition.
    Look at the CV boots and that drivers side axle shaking in the inner diff is normal (have a bushing fix if required see posts).
    I had my rear diff and bearings replaced at 100k and front bearings too as they were all failing/grating/whining so check those.
    Finally if you are stock driveshaft check u-joints and center carrier for play/vibration (TW 1 piece in mind so all fixed).
    Shocks probably shot by now as I put in 5100s all around with my Dakar springs years ago (2" front lift and 3" rear).
    That's all I got for you. Cheaper to fix than replace the Tacoma!
     
    GQ7227 and jkuniverse like this.
  3. Dec 8, 2019 at 4:41 AM
    #3
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

    Joined:
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    Steve
    Marylandistan
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    2010 Tacoma TRD Sport Access cab 4x4 silver streak
    I have 151k on mine, also no problems. Here’s my 3 top suggestions (I’ve done all these):

    1. Transmission drain and fill that includes dropping the pan and replacing the filter. You can also add a Magnafine filter on the return line like I did.

    2. Front wheel bearings

    3. Flush your power steering with fresh Valvoline MaxLife ATF.

    I’ve also done the coolant a few times, new serpentine belt and pulleys (just replaced the bearing on the tension pulley), and I replaced the alternator even though the old one was still good. New Denso one was cheap and I had the time to swap it.
     
    west467 likes this.
  4. Dec 8, 2019 at 6:58 AM
    #4
    Marshall R

    Marshall R Well-Known Member

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    07 White TRD double cab
    none
    My 07 is at 202,000. I don't plan to touch the ATF until I have the transmission rebuilt somewhere around 400K. It'll last just as long either way. Just save your money until it needs to be rebuilt. The exception to that is if you let the transmission get too hot and the fluid is burned. Then change it ASAP even if it were done recently.

    I replaced the oil in both diff's and transfer case at 160,000 along with the plugs at the same time. I check the serpentine belt and replace as needed. I think I've done that twice. Coolant and hoses are still factory. I'm probably going to change those in the spring.
     
  5. Dec 8, 2019 at 7:47 AM
    #5
    Sprig

    Sprig Well-Known Member

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    Ken
    N. Calif. The Twilight Zone
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    In addition to what others have said Clean the MAF and throttle body. Replace the serpentine belt. Flush the radiator, replace the radiator hoses and heater hoses. While you are at it consider replacing the water pump. A lot of people overlook their air filter and cabin filter, check those.
     
  6. Dec 8, 2019 at 8:32 AM
    #6
    TacoBreaker

    TacoBreaker Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    #302636
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    08 Rust Bucket
    OME 885, 5100s
    I gave into the “don’t touch it” transmission scare until around 170k maybe (should go verify). Either way did the pan drop, filter change routine and regret not doing sooner. Shifts tons better. Now over 180k without issues. If you start doing these other fluids, make sure you can get your fill plugs out first! None of mine were stuck but I didn’t have anything that’d fit up there to get the transmission fill plug out. That would have been a pisser. Worst case I can walk to an Advanced now, but where I lived before would have been a serious issue.
     
  7. Dec 8, 2019 at 8:36 AM
    #7
    Armed in Utah

    Armed in Utah Well-Known Member

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    Utah's High Desert.......
    Vehicle:
    2003 Lexus LX 470
    All fluids........yes........brake fluid too......

    150K on original transmission fluid ?
     
  8. Jun 15, 2020 at 7:09 AM
    #8
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

    Joined:
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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    why the wheel bearings?

    ... recently turned 150k on my OG 1st gen!


    IMG_0501.jpg
     
  9. Jun 15, 2020 at 7:24 AM
    #9
    TheDevilYouLove

    TheDevilYouLove You can’t polish a turd, but you can polish a TRD

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    just cuz they start to go after 150k. I got them from the guy on Tacoma World who presses in quality Japanese bearings into a new hub assembly. Pretty easy swap doing it that way.
     
    GQ7227[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Jun 15, 2020 at 7:31 AM
    #10
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Gender:
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    First Name:
    J A Y
    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    i would think the bearings would start to make some weird noise if going bad but idk?
    also if you have a lot of salty winter slop, roadspray and that get inside it can lead to more bearing wear perhaps?
     

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