PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

Probably wasn’t terribly delicate when new, but keep in mind that the Soviet Union still existed when the furnace wa a manufactured!

 

Ok before you decide you need a engine or mechanical repair. 2 data points do not show much.
Change brands of oil. Some oils vaporize more than others. Mobil one synthetic doesn't vaporise much.
Take photo of oil level.
Drive 1000 miles, park in same spot, take photo of oil level.
Repeat every 1000.
Then you will actually know.
1 quart every 5000 is not crazy oil consumption. 1 quart every 1000 is.
One needs nothing really, the other needs attention.
I hope this helps and makes sense.

 

It actually does!

My truck seems to going through a quarter every 3,000-3,500 miles...

 

I found some kind of old GM emblems or stickers down in my garage, I will see if I can find where I put them and I will take a pic.

 

That may be the brand of oil. We got some bulk oil in once, it caused a rash of people complaining about oil consumption. The same time we had hired a Flippin moonbat as the new oil change guy. Were they actually full? Who knows. Was it the oil? Who knows. Changed brands of bulk, and the moonbat quit. Problem just disappeared after testing like above.

 

Charlie....you're really over thinking this. Just try a different oil. I suggested M1 High Mileage 5/30 because it has an excellent additive/detergent package and is on the heavier side of the 5/30 spectrum.

Anyway....we've had this discussion before. I'm out

 

And the other mystery is why my gas mileage is so bad...

 

I had also found gasket sets for Edsel in the garage.

 

Sometimes I think you start these threads to get attention and you don’t actually want to address the “problem.”

If you’re paying someone to do your brakes you’re probably not mechanically inclined and could strip a plug or something doing a compression check yourself. Replacing the piston rings would cost more than the truck is worth.

Just drive it and keep an eye on it, there are better things to worry about.

 

So you’re telling me it would cost about $9,000 to replace the piston rings?

I most certainly am not doing this just to get attention. This is a fairly recent occurrence with regards to using oil and the last time it happened, I thought it was the result of my mechanic not putting the full 5.5 quarts in last
time; Turns out that is not the case.

I know how to change oil, change a tire, etc; I’ve swapped out headlights and taillights and done work on the stereo myself. I also replaced a blend door actuator myself. I just do not feel comfortable working on brakes myself because I’ve never done it before.

My biggest grievance with my dad’s mechanic is that he charges more than even the dealer on certain things; A perfect example would be PA inspection. Thompson Toyota charges $60 for both emissions and safety, and offers a free loaner car; My dad’s mechanic charges like $70 or $80, obviously does not offer a free loaner, and even has to farm out the emissions part of the test because he’s a small operation and doesn’t have the resources to purchase the $12,000 state-mandated emissions testing machine.

I am calling MY MECHANIC (Pete) right now to schedule a compression test because he’s considerably cheaper than my dad’s guy; The only reason I went to my dad’s guy is because my guy was booked.

 

Also, I would prefer to change my own oil, but I live with my parents; Why? I was going to rent a place, but my best friend’s rent has gone up by over $200 per month since he moved there and after seven years he has decided to move back in with his parents so he can (A) save up for a condo or townhouse, and (B) pay off his new SUV early. I have decided to skip renting entirely and save up for my own place.

Anyway, my dad hasn’t changed his own oil since like 1992 (at 3 years old I was helping him do it); He is afraid I’ll spill oil in his garage.

I buy six quarts of Mobil 1 for like $40 and then my mechanic Pete charges like $12 or $14 for the filter and labor...

 

They don’t make ‘em like they used to!

 

Do you get to keep and sell for a profit?

 

no if that's the manufacturers recommended weight oil use it. I think 5w20 can also be used in that engine if 0w20 might not be available

 

Ive heard that 5W30 will work; That’s what Bill’s older RC used...

 

save your truck if you own it, bank loans are almost at 0% APR you can maybe buy a small efficiency apartment instead of renting probably would come at the same as a months renting and eventually youll own it.

 

it will work but try to stick with the OEM recommendations

 

My truck was a gift from my parents when I got my learner’s permit almost 11 years ago! It’s been paid off since 2012 or 2013 and I’ve got a title in my name!

 

your 2 steps ahead of most, #1 no truck payments #2 you have probably the most reliable cost effective pick up available

 

lots of assumptions & guessing

if it was a head gasket U would definitely have a LOSS of power
cold or hot
empty or under load ( grade )

a consistent compression check between cylinders negates head gasket

a ' leak down ' test would indicate ring or valve issues
rare that valve issues cause oil consumption

switching weight of oil seldom causes loss.................. changing brands or types will
going from a parafin to an ester
going from a Dino to a synth will cause issues

most oil consumption occurs related to rings
the engine/rings / valves etc are designed & engineered to run
slow speeds to fast
idle to red line
hot to cold
all present different heat ranges

' blow by ' is largely a contribution of rings losing their tensile strength
particularly in different operating ranges
a regular bump/grind commuter run will result in more oil consumption than
a consistent hi way cruise

1 quart in approx 3000 miles is no biggie